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    Immediate high idle

    As I briefly mentioned in my intro (New GS Owner) I picked up a 81 GS650GLX a couple weeks ago as a winter project. I got if from an auction so the history is unknown, but the bike has good compression on all 4 and ran with starter spray so I tore the carbs down and rebuilt them. The bike came to life as soon as I put the carbs back on (what a PITA to get them on and off), but tachs WAY up so I haven't let it run long. I did try turning the mixture screws out to see if it would help and may have a little but it still idles high enough to make me shut it right back down. All 4 intakes have some sort of epoxy all over them so I am ordering new ones, but was wondering if there was any other common leak points. A little info about the bike - stock air box (new filter on order), stock exhaust, well basically a 100% stock bike besides paint and a windshield which has already been removed (didn't look right on there).
    Thanks in advance!

    #2
    throttle cable

    It could be air leaks from those boots. Make sure you replace the o-rings too. I had the same problem, it was just the throttle cable out of adjustment. Try to loosen it up and see what happens while you are waiting on your parts.
    https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9zH8w8Civs8ejBJWjdvYi1LNTg&resourcekey=0-hlJp0Yc4K_VN9g7Jyy4KQg&authuser=fussbucket_1%40msn.com&usp=drive_fs
    1983 GS750ED-Horsetraded for the Ironhead
    1981 HD XLH

    Drew's 850 L Restoration

    Drew's 83 750E Project

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by jsandidge View Post
      It could be air leaks from those boots. Make sure you replace the o-rings too. I had the same problem, it was just the throttle cable out of adjustment. Try to loosen it up and see what happens while you are waiting on your parts.

      Thanks for the reply. The throttle cable was one of the first things I checked and it is in good shape and has the necessary free play. I ordered a complete set of intakes, o-rings, and clamps that was a package deal off of eBay. They are coming from a Suzuki dealer though so they are genuine parts. One thing I did notice is the cable for the tach is missing so there is nothing in the fitting right now. I tried blocking it off and that didn't seem to make a difference. I didn't think it would but stranger things have happened. So now I get to wait on the parts.

      Comment


        #4
        Idle

        Is the idle screw, between the 2 middle carbs, adjusted properly??? It is located at a downward angle at the back of the 2 middle float bowls. Tricky to adjust when bike is hot, but is easy to adjust when the bike is cold.
        1981 GS 1000GLX.
        1981 GS 1000G.
        1981 GS 650GLX.
        1975 TS 185.
        1972 100. Kawasaki.
        1968 100. Suzuki.
        1970 Z 50. Honda.
        1984 CT 70. Honda. (Kids)
        1982 DS 50. Suzuki. (Kids)

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          #5
          Hopefully you saw link for Basscliff's site...



          Note the proper carb cleaning procedure- these CV's don't appreciate shortcuts and as you've found out, carb removal/reinstall is no fun on the 650.
          1981 gs650L

          "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by habsdoc View Post
            Is the idle screw, between the 2 middle carbs, adjusted properly??? It is located at a downward angle at the back of the 2 middle float bowls. Tricky to adjust when bike is hot, but is easy to adjust when the bike is cold.

            Yeah I even backed it out to where it wasn't touching anymore just to rule it out. It is PITA to get to. I think between carb removal/install and idle adjustment there's some engineers at Suzuki that are still laughing at us. I was VERY tempted to go with pods but this bike is so original I just couldn't do it, plus I read they aren't real fun to tune for.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by tom203 View Post
              Hopefully you saw link for Basscliff's site...



              Note the proper carb cleaning procedure- these CV's don't appreciate shortcuts and as you've found out, carb removal/reinstall is no fun on the 650.
              Very nice link thanks! I hadn't seen that yet, but it is definitely saved now. Yeah the carbs were done right. The only thing I see in the link that I didn't do is use original jets. Each carb got a K&L kit put in it - after complete disassembly, soaking in cleaner, wire run through all orifices, orifices all sprayed out with carb cleaner (making sure cleaner exited the proper orifice), and then blown out with compressed air . I am not sure who makes K&L jets but I verified they were all the same size. I also bench synced them and I am sure they are REAL close, but since I can't get a safe idle I can't sync them on the bike just yet. That will definitely get done though. For the record I am an ex bike shop owner so this is definitely not my first set of carbs I have gone through, just my first GS650 that I have gotten so friendly with. Not saying I am exempt from overlooking or learning new things and that is one of the reasons I try to find a site that specializes in the bike I am currently rebuilding (there has been a few) and try to learn as much as I can from the folks that have already been there many times. I really appreciate the information and will post my results when I get my parts in.
              Last edited by Guest; 11-14-2013, 11:42 AM.

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                #8
                K&L jets suck, but they won't cause a high idle. That is an air thing, too much air getting in someplace. Do the throttles make a loud "clack" sound if you open it all the way and let it go? (engine not running) If not they are not closing all the way.
                http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                Life is too short to ride an L.

                Comment


                  #9
                  The K&L kits aren't noted to be the best option on a rebuild. Many here have expressed their concerns about the quality of these kits. Just food for thought.
                  http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
                  1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
                  1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
                  1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

                  Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

                  JTGS850GL aka Julius

                  GS Resource Greetings

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                    K&L jets suck, but they won't cause a high idle. That is an air thing, too much air getting in someplace. Do the throttles make a loud "clack" sound if you open it all the way and let it go? (engine not running) If not they are not closing all the way.

                    Just to make sure, I went out in the shop and did the "clack" test and yeah they slam shut. Here's a few pics I took of the bike on the lift and my little home shop.





                    Comment


                      #11
                      First time I saw your title, I read, "Immediate high side".

                      Very happy this was not the case.

                      Air leaks are easier to fix than bones.
                      http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                      Life is too short to ride an L.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Before you instaled the carbs, how big were the slots at the bottom of the throttle plates when the throttle was closed?
                        http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                        Life is too short to ride an L.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                          First time I saw your title, I read, "Immediate high side".

                          Very happy this was not the case.

                          Air leaks are easier to fix than bones.
                          Yeah that would suck MUCH worse!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                            Before you instaled the carbs, how big were the slots at the bottom of the throttle plates when the throttle was closed?
                            I used a piece of wire that I use to clean the orifices out just to make sure the sync was close. I set them with that and then adjusted the idle screw in a few turns and remeasured with something thicker (I think I used a small screwdriver as a reference). I then put them back to the wire thickness before install. Once I found the high idle situation I backed the idle screw out until it wasn't touching and it still revs WAY up with the throttle plates closed all the way.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              See if the taps on the bottom of the intake boots are leaking. These are for syncing the carbs which you should do as well. Make sure they are snug and check for leaks by spraying wd40
                              Did you replace the o rings in the air screws correctly?spray along the top carefully
                              Do the clamps on the boots fit tight? After screwing them down can they be moved? New clamps are about 2 dollars each.
                              Are the throttle screws for 1 , 2 and 4 adjusted improperly or the tang not under the screw? One throttle plate could be very high even though you backed the main adjuster out. All it takes is one throttle to be up and the engine will race.
                              1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
                              1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

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