Immediate high idle

[Mr_Shamrock]

See if the taps on the bottom of the intake boots are leaking. These are for syncing the carbs which you should do as well. Make sure they are snug and check for leaks by spraying wd40
Did you replace the o rings in the air screws correctly?spray along the top carefully
Do the clamps on the boots fit tight? After screwing them down can they be moved? New clamps are about 2 dollars each.
Are the throttle screws for 1 , 2 and 4 adjusted improperly or the tang not under the screw? One throttle plate could be very high even though you backed the main adjuster out. All it takes is one throttle to be up and the engine will race.

All the taps are tight. I can't test with WD-40 b/c the engine races too high to even keep it running long enough. All clamps are tight and I made sure the throttle plates were even and moved in unison. Thanks for the idea's!

[duaneage]

Check the timing.
Pull the right side engine cover and check that the advance weights are not stuck. This is a problem where the springs rust and seize or break then the timing goes to 34 BTDC. Engine will race. You can use a timing light on 1 or 4 and see where it stands through a little window. With it racing it will be at the high advanced mark of 34 degrees ( above 3400 RPM) and should go down if you can get it below 2000.

If the place is loose or a PO mucked around with it you may need to static time it. Stop the engine, remove a plug, and bring it to TDC precisely. Use a pencil in the hole to determine the piston is all the way up.

The line for T should line up. F is fire right next to it.

This is easy. The thing runs, you just need to tame it.

[chef1366]

You did the right thing with the intake boots and o-rings.
This is more than likely your problem.

[Mr_Shamrock]

Check the timing.
Pull the right side engine cover and check that the advance weights are not stuck. This is a problem where the springs rust and seize or break then the timing goes to 34 BTDC. Engine will race. You can use a timing light on 1 or 4 and see where it stands through a little window. With it racing it will be at the high advanced mark of 34 degrees ( above 3400 RPM) and should go down if you can get it below 2000.

If the place is loose or a PO mucked around with it you may need to static time it. Stop the engine, remove a plug, and bring it to TDC precisely. Use a pencil in the hole to determine the piston is all the way up.

The line for T should line up. F is fire right next to it.

This is easy. The thing runs, you just need to tame it.

Thanks for the helpful info. I will check it while I am waiting on parts just to rule that out.

[Mr_Shamrock]

Verdict is in - the intake boots did the trick. Bike runs great now! Now if I could just get my hands on the guy that designed this intake/carb/airbox mounting system the day would officially be a success!
I've already decided if the carbs have to come back off I am going pods - this just doesn't make sense!!!!!

[5150/gs]

If u think fighting with the air box assy. was fun, put some pods on and you will be days tuning it proper. Lots o fun there lol. Just saying, stay stock. it's a 650. you are so close now it's almost over, carb sync is all that's left providing you did your valve adjustments already.

[Mr_Shamrock]

If u think fighting with the air box assy. was fun, put some pods on and you will be days tuning it proper. Lots o fun there lol. Just saying, stay stock. it's a 650. you are so close now it's almost over, carb sync is all that's left providing you did your valve adjustments already.

Yeah I hear they can be fun to tune for although it seems that most of the people that I read about having issues didn't buy a complete jet kit and were just throwing jets at it. I know there are many bikes out there that just a simple main jet increase and shim under the needle is all they need but some must have a differently tapered needle. With that said hopefully it will be a while until I need to pull them again. I did find a cheap DJ jet kit on eBay that I went ahead and bought and got it under glass for the "just in case" situation. It was a no reserve auction with free shipping and I got it for $11.50. I think that was a pretty killer deal. I still haven't had time to do the valve adjustment yet, but it is definitely on my list of winter "to do's". I had the bike out this morning for a ride and it runs fantastic, but I still will do the valves just to check it off the list. Here is picture of the bike when I got back this morning. Mother nature was kind enough to hold out on the rain for me...