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VM 26 Carb Rebuild GS 1000

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    #16
    Carbs went back together well. The 127.5 mains have been replaced with 95's. All other parts seemed fine.

    I did not put the throttle bracket in place, prior to racking the bank of carbs to the mounting bracket. I had to remove carbs, and put throttle bracket in place and then reassemble. I did not see that in the VM carb tutorial but maybe I missed it....no big deal.

    After reassembly, I did see one thing that concerns me.... the fuel T between #2 and #3 has a small gap where it is inserted into carb #2. I don't recall if it was a tight fit, prior to disassembly.

    I loosened everything up and tried to slide the carb over a bit but that did not change anything. Everything else seems straight and positioned properly.

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      #17
      I'm no expert, but I would make sure all of the ridge rings on the tees are well secured in the housing... with no gap if possible. I tried to re-use my old style tees and never got them to reset without leaking. Replaced them with the new style and they worked fine.

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        #18
        Originally posted by twotimeGSr View Post
        I'm no expert, but I would make sure all of the ridge rings on the tees are well secured in the housing... with no gap if possible. I tried to re-use my old style tees and never got them to reset without leaking. Replaced them with the new style and they worked fine.

        The ridge rings are certainly in far enough to make the proper seal.

        But, replacing them is probably the right thing to do. I will put the carbs aside, move on to another task and order the new fittings in my next Z1 order, or I my look on eBay, since I already have the new 0-rings.

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          #19
          some do get just a small gap at the shoulders..long as the orings are in and the seating bsurfaces are clean and smooth youll be fine. I run a twisted up ball of steel wool down all the holes.

          And especially make sure the choke plunger holes are spotless. Hanging plungers are the very last thing one thinks of if they run rich and nothing seems to solve the problem...until you discover a hung up plunger.
          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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            #20
            Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
            some do get just a small gap at the shoulders..long as the orings are in and the seating bsurfaces are clean and smooth youll be fine. I run a twisted up ball of steel wool down all the holes.

            And especially make sure the choke plunger holes are spotless. Hanging plungers are the very last thing one thinks of if they run rich and nothing seems to solve the problem...until you discover a hung up plunger.
            Thanks Chuck,

            All components were dipped and sprayed. Ed suggested soaking the T and connectors in fuel, which I did.

            Since I have time to order, ( although, I would prefer not to separate carbs again) I may go ahead and replace the fittings.

            I am flip floppin on this one!

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              #21
              a 22 caliber gun brush works well for scrubbing the bores of the fuel tee and transfer tubes.
              MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
              1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

              NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


              I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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