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'82 GS 650 hard to start and idle runs up
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DirtyBrown
'82 GS 650 hard to start and idle runs up
'82 GS 650 with re-built carbs and Dynajet stage 3 kit installed for pod filters and shorty mufflers. The engine only starts cold with a shot of starter fluid, but re-starts fine while still warm. The engine idles fine for a while, but then the idle wants to run up and stay above 1500 rpm's even while turning down the screw. I'm trying to find vacuum leaks, but can't really pin point anything. Maybe I'm over looking something else, probably something simple. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. -
DirtyBrown
New boots and O rings
But, I haven't checked valve adjustment. As soon as I can get a cam cover gasket on order I will check. Thanks!
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DirtyBrown
Besides the boots and O rings, the carbs were re-built and re-jetted with the Dynajet Stage 3 kit
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Originally posted by DirtyBrown View PostBesides the boots and O rings, the carbs were re-built and re-jetted with the Dynajet Stage 3 kit
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DirtyBrown
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cool, sounds like you are on the right track.
OK, the rising idle, is tht with the choke still on or after it is fully warmed up?
Did you dip the float bowls themselves? There is a choke feed passage there that always clogs up first. This would explain the not starting without starter fluid.Last edited by tkent02; 01-06-2014, 02:38 PM.
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DirtyBrown
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DirtyBrown
Is the choke feed passage the brass tube? That is the only thing I didn't replace, I have new ones that came with the kits, but I couldn't get the old ones out, but did clear them with a wire. I'll try again.
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Originally posted by DirtyBrown View PostIs the choke feed passage the brass tube? That is the only thing I didn't replace, I have new ones that came with the kits, but I couldn't get the old ones out, but did clear them with a wire. I'll try again.1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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DirtyBrown
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DirtyBrown
Another thought
With the pod filters there is nothing supporting the carbs on that side, when I spray starter fluid around the boots I get a slight increase in rpm's. I may have found one of my problems. Now to find a way to support the carbs better.
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NO, don't remove the brass tube. It is pressed in there, just leave it in place. Just make sure when you spray carb cleaner into the hole where the choke plunger threads into, it sprays out of all the holes in the brass tube in a uniform pattern. Then make sure the passage between the float bowl and the well that that tube fits into is clear, by poking and spraying carb cleaner.
You shouldn't have to support th back of the carbs, it should sit in the boots just fine.
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DirtyBrown
Still not right
I pulled off the carbs, cleared the fuel passages for the choke which seemed to be clear, and re-installed them with newer and better clamps. When I tried to start it, it stumbled, but would not start, a shot of starter fluid and it fired right up, ran and idled fine, until I sprayed starter fluid around the boots where the carbs attach, (all four) the idle still runs up... The boots are brand new, what is wrong?
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