Battery via airbox

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
  • Rob S.
    Forum Guru
    Past Site Supporter
    • Dec 2013
    • 9389
    • New York City
    #1

    Battery via airbox

    I have an '82 1100e, and I'm trying to get at the battery. Everything works fine, but the idiot light has been on since I bought her three months and 500 miles ago. Even with the left side cover off and a drop light, I can't make out any electrolyte levels.

    Yes I know this is Carb/Fuel/Exhaust, but as Haynes puts it, battery access is "restricted", and after the seat and before the rear master cylinder, the air filter and it's portion of the airbox must be removed. I have removed the two rear airbox bolts, but it won't come out. It looks like I may have to unbolt and lift the rear of the gas tank to get the airbox out (so I can get to the master cylinder, so I can get to the battery...sheesh! On my old Z, I just opened the seat, which was itself much easier).

    Haynes seems to have omitted a few steps, and the Suzuki service manual at BassCliff makes no mention of battery access at all. I don't believe a Clymer for the '82 1100e exists. Any tips for getting the airbox out, or the whole battery-access procedure?

    Thanks much. It's too cold to ride here in the northeast, I gotta do something!
    1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

    2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.
    Tags: None
    • tkent02
      Forum LongTimer
      Past Site Supporter
      • Jan 2006
      • 35571
      • Near South Park
      #2
      The idiot light is probably on because most new batteries don't have the sensor for the fluid level built in. You are supposed to cut a wire or connect a wire or something like that to keep the light out. Do a search, there have been discussions here about it.

      The air filter box pulls out the top, tight fit but force it. I think you need to remove the clamps from both ends of that rubber air duct . The battery also comes out the top. No need to remove the master cylinder or anything else.

      Sorry my details are a bit fuzzy, haven't had an 1100E in a while.
      http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

      Life is too short to ride an L.

        Comment

        • koolaid_kid
          #3
          You need to remove the air filter box and the rubber connecting tube. I usually removed the master cylinder because it made it easier to lift the battery. It is only held on by one simple bolt.

            Comment

            • dorkburger
              Forum LongTimer
              Past Site Supporter
              • Jan 2013
              • 10769
              • Stupid Freehold Boro NJ
              #4
              Its been a while, plus my 1100e came with pods....but if I recall, I unbolted the bracket that the rear of the tank sits on and lifted the tank until I could clear the battery.
              sigpic
              When consulting the magic 8 ball for advice, one must first ask it "will your answers be accurate?"

              Glen
              -85 1150 es - Plus size supermodel.
              -Rusty old scooter.
              Other things I like to photograph.....instagram.com/gs_junkie
              https://www.instagram.com/glen_brenner/
              https://www.flickr.com/photos/152267...7713345317771/

                Comment

                • Rob S.
                  Forum Guru
                  Past Site Supporter
                  • Dec 2013
                  • 9389
                  • New York City
                  #5
                  Air duct

                  There seems to be a consensus that I have to unhook the rear airbox section from the duct leading toward the carbs (makes sense to me).

                  Just took the right side cover off, and things look slightly clearer. I'm sure that by 3AM, when I've finished the rest of this 6-pack, things will fall into place. Still, the right-side airbox bulge, where the intake is, promises to be interesting to maneuver out the top of the frame.

                  I'm just slightly perturbed because, as I mentioned, my last bike was open the hinged seat, and bam! There was the battery. A negative bolt, a positive bolt, and it's out.

                  I'm also very wary (careful) about removing the side covers because of their fragile attachment tabs. One side is fine, the other has one of the three tabs missing, another epoxied back on. Correct side covers are very important to me for their looks and their contribution to the bikes resale value.
                  1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                  2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

                    Comment

                    • koolaid_kid
                      #6
                      The bulge is another reason to remove the master cylinder. You have to rotate the box CW to get it out. IIRC, it is easier if you remove the box then the tube.

                        Comment

                        • Rob S.
                          Forum Guru
                          Past Site Supporter
                          • Dec 2013
                          • 9389
                          • New York City
                          #7
                          An hour and several bloody knuckles later:

                          Airbox came out of the duct leading to the carbs without loosening the hose clamps. Of course now it won't go back in, so I can't line up the holes to replace the two rear airbox bolts. The duct is now compromised, but that doesn't concern me, as the bike came without a lid over the air filter and performs fine.

                          Rear master cylinder unbolted and displaced very easily, allowing me to see that the airbox could not possibly come out in one piece without removing the frame crossmember that the rear of the gas tank bolts to. So...

                          I never got to the battery. The seat and sidecovers are back on, and the air filter housing (airbox) is about where it was under the seat, just not bolted in. Now it's time to send the children out of the room.

                          A mother-friggin' multi-step shop procedure just to see the top of the friggin' battery? On a bike without a kick starter? (Ask your grandparents what a kick starter is.) Are you (Suzuki engineers) mother-friggin' kidding me? I can't imagine what it would take to actually remove the battery.

                          I'm 100% ready to go to velocity stacks, or individual K&N filters. (Do you young'ens call them pods now?) Of course, I still want to retain as much of the stock look (or at least parts in my garage) as possible, so I'm restraining myself from taking a saw to that airbox so I can get to the battery.

                          I'm also ready to consider one of them new-fangled lithium ion batteries. I know they're lighter and smaller, but how much cold-engine northeast winter cranking power can they deliver? And are they mounted in the same place?

                          I'd like to hear from some '82 & '83 1100e owners about the intake situation, and about lithium batteries, and anything else that pertains to these beautiful old dinosaurs. Thanks for tolerating my venting.
                          1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                          2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

                            Comment

                            • koolaid_kid
                              #8
                              First, for your present predicament:
                              Unbolt the 2 bolts for the tank, put a towel under it to lift it, remove the 4 bolts or screws that the crossmember has, then you can get to things fine.
                              Yes, it is tight.
                              You should have loosened the clamp on the tube. I would go back in, remove the box and the tube, clamp the tube to the box, the slip the assembly back in and clamp it to the airbox. It must be clamped on both ends.
                              Once you do it a few dozen times it becomes second nature.
                              Get an AGM battery when you need one. Last a long time, plenty of power, reasonably priced.

                                Comment

                                • Rob S.
                                  Forum Guru
                                  Past Site Supporter
                                  • Dec 2013
                                  • 9389
                                  • New York City
                                  #9
                                  Cool Aide and Covers

                                  Thanks, koolaid_kid. Finally, what seems like a logical, step-by-step (and correct) procedure. It wouldn't be electric KoolAid, by any chance, would it?

                                  About intake: in my day we used to put velocity stacks or individual K&N filters on the four carbs. I see many references on this site to pods. Are they the same thing?

                                  About the covers: I've just decided that I will never take Suzi in for service with her side covers on. Two horror stories:

                                  In 1979 I bought what I should have known even then was a very historic bike: a '73 Z1 with almost pristine tank and side covers. Several years later I was having the engine rebuilt. "There was a fire," I was told. "Your side covers melted."

                                  Several weeks before I bought my current love, an '82 1100e (with pristine tank and side covers), I was looking at a ratty '84 900 Ninja. It was at a shop, diagnosed with a bad starter clutch. I eventually saw it running, but completely naked. The fairing and all body panels disappeared while it was being serviced!
                                  1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                                  2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

                                    Comment

                                    • koolaid_kid
                                      #10
                                      Sorry, I sold my GS a couple of years ago and it took some prompting to recall the entire procedure.
                                      Not electric, Colorado koolaid (Coors beer).

                                      Yes, APE or K&N pods are the way to go. You must rejet, however, and a DynoJet kit or similar is the easiest way to go.
                                      AFA the sidecovers, yours are particularly delicate. The mounting tabs are prone to breaking off.

                                        Comment

                                        Previous template Next
                                        Working...