Manometer with steel balls

[goggles]

I saw in the for sale section that the Suzuki original carb sync tool used steel balls rather than mercury or special fluid like the ones of today.

Would it be possible to make your own using this same idea?

[1980GS1000E]

Those old Suzuki manometers used, IIRC, specially tapered tubes that allowed more air to pass around the balls as they rose so they wouldn't just be sucked up the tubes to the top. I doubt you could make one that is functional unless you could find the proper tubes.

[GateKeeper]

get a www.carbtune.com

it don't use fluids or mercury

Q. What sort of liquid does it use?
A. It doesn't use any liquids. It has columns of stainless steel that float through guides to indicate the vacuum.

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[Steve]

I saw in the for sale section that the Suzuki original carb sync tool used steel balls rather than mercury or special fluid like the ones of today.

Would it be possible to make your own using this same idea?

Yes, it would be possible.

Would it be practical? NO.

As mentioned, the tubes in the Suzuki gauges are tapered. I found that accidentally when I installed one upside down after replacing theh o-rings.

For all the time and effort that you would have to put in to designing and building a set of gauges, you would be better off just getting a Carbtune. They come from the UK, and have a price that is in British Pounds, so the price in American Dollars varies with the daily exchange rate. Right now (12JAN2014), it is US$110.36 and worth every penny.

By the way, it is NOT a one-time use item. Your manual calls for valve clearance checks every 4000 miles. If you change any clearances you also change how much that cylinder can breathe, which affects the vacuum level at the throttle plate. That means you need to re-sync the carbs after a valve adjustment. Yes, you will use your Carbtune many, many times over the years.

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[GhostGS40X]

Motion Pro Syncpro Carburetor Tuner is another option that works well. $100-110 USD.

[Steve]

Motion Pro Syncpro Carburetor Tuner is another option that works well. $100-110 USD.

Yes, it works OK, but needs to be recalibrated every time you use it, and it uses liquid that can leak out.

For the same money, I would get the Carbtune.

.

[goggles]

Thanks for the information.

[Seaking]

I've used all three types, Carbtune, Protune with the blue fluids and the standard needle gauge and would have to say I prefer the needles as it has fewer proprietory problems..

The MotionPro with the blue fluid works great when it works. as previously mentioned above, the fluids will either evaporate out, or incur bubbles in the column making it a guessing game as to what the actual level is. The folks at MotionPro were nice enough to send me replacement fluid for free when queried about the problem..I should get around to servicing it sometime.. (photo shows that annoying air bubble problem)

http://www.eastcoastphotos.com/gs650g/picture0149.jpg

The Carbtune worked ok but requires periodic cleaning of the rods and columns to avoid false readings.. Not a big problem if you use it once or twice a year but I do a lot of carb synching so it ended up getting fouled often.. I'll use it in a pinch..

However, my favourite manometer would be the needle gauge version (not sure what the proper nomenclature is). The adjustable restrictors allow you to limit the bounce of the needles (takes a little practice) so that they are barely moving and doesn't require calibrating like the ProMotion. Its quick and easy to use..

http://www.eastcoastphotos.com/gs650g/picture0150.jpg

[Steve]

I've used all three types, Carbtune, Protune with the blue fluids and the standard needle gauge ...

You may have used three different systems, but they are not "all three types".

You forgot the ultimate: Mercury sticks.

Yes, they have a dangerous fluid in them, but they are the standard from which all other gauges are calibrated.

Your needles might have "fewer proprietory problems", but they still have problems, too.
You use restrictors to minimize needle bounce, that is good. However, you need to calibrate them to each other when you use them, just to make sure they are reading the same. (This is also required with the Suzuki ball gauge.) Fortunately, it is not necessary to know whether they are indicating 15 or 20, because any accuracy would be eliminated after a couple of calibrations.

I will continue to use my mercury sticks until I run out of mercury, and I have what is probably a 1000-year supply.

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[Seaking]

Hmm Mercury sticks.. ahhh the old days.. sigh.. 1,000 yr supply if you don't drop them..

I haven't looked into what is involved with carb synch'ing the GS650G yet, or heard of the Suzuki ball gauge.. Will I need to sacrifice a goat or something to do this? Synch'ing the 4 carbs on the RSV is rather painfully simple to do. Any chance the GS is simple as well?

[Steve]

Hmm Mercury sticks.. ahhh the old days.. sigh.. 1,000 yr supply if you don't drop them.

Actually I could drop them a time or three.
I have enough mercury here to declare all of southwest oHIo a HazMat disaster area if I should ever drop it.

I haven't looked into what is involved with carb synch'ing the GS650G yet, or heard of the Suzuki ball gauge.. Will I need to sacrifice a goat or something to do this? Synch'ing the 4 carbs on the RSV is rather painfully simple to do. Any chance the GS is simple as well?

Not quite as simple as your RSV (I have an '86 Venture Royale here for comparison), but not all that bad, once you have the proper tool.

I think the hardest part is getting the plug back into the port on #2 intake boot.

You do need to provide an auxilliary fuel supply, as you will have to remove your tank.

Full instructions are on BassCliff's site.

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[Seaking]

well that IS quite a different set up than on my current bikes..

Thanks for the links.