I'm choking!

[Rob S.]

My left thumb choke lever (1982 GS1100e) requires help from another hand down on the carbs.

When I bought this bike (almost 25k) three months and 500 miles ago, the owner erroneously told me that all the way right (on the left hand lever) was for cold starting, all the way left for normal running. Even though he was wrong, it started and ran beautifully for about a month. Then it became hard to start. (It also got colder in the garage.)

I suspected that the choke cable had become disconnected, and my local dealership confirmed that it had become "partly" disconnected. They reconnected it, and told me that I had been using it backwards. They also told me that it was hard for the cable to move the bar on the carb bank, and that I should help it with my hand down by the carbs. They said they had lubed it, and that it might loosen up over time, but that they couldn't return it to like-new operation without removing and disassembling the carbs. They didn't think it was worth it, or that I wanted to spend that much money just to be able to work the choke entirely from the handlebar. They were certainly right about that.

She starts and runs great now, with me working the choke mostly from down on the carbs. Any thoughts from '82 1100e owners/mechanics? I think '83 is identical.

[Sci85]

I had the same issue on my 550 but it turned out to be the cable from stretch. So, I pulled the cable end off the carbs and clamped a little lead fishing line weight on the end to take up the slack. Works like a peach now.

If it turns out the chokes are sticking, then the only solution is to pull the rack, disassemble and lube/clean up.

[Rob S.]

Afraid

That's what I'm afraid of.

Working it solely from the handlebar put a small crack in the base of the lever, and then popped the whole lever off. The old lever (I also have a new one) is reattached, but I mostly work it down below and let the lever just follow.

Would rejetting require the kind of carb disassembly that would facilitate getting the thumb lever to work the choke all by itself? I'm going to replace the stock airbox with four individual filters (do you call them 'pods'? We used to call them velocity stacks or 'K&N's), so I'll have the shop check or rejet if necessary.

This old man on his loud superbike thanks you. (The neighbors do not.)

[cowboyup3371]

I don't remember seeing this in your other threads but did you ever disassemble and properly clean your carbs? If so, you would have worked on that choke system already; if not, you'll want to do it.

[Rob S.]

Not me

I don't get that deeply into it myself (I'm 57 and just bought my first torque wrench!).

That's why I ask so many questions - I pay the dealership to do the work.

For instance - I'm going to (try to) remove the stock airbox and install the four APE air filters (005-121, $59.95) I just ordered online. Assuming that goes well, I'll bring her in for jetting. Does re-jetting require the complete disassembly of the carbs?

If it does, then when it comes back from the dealer for re-jetting, I'll expect the left handlebar choke lever to work the choke without a helping hand down on the carbs.

[Steve]

If you are going to be taking your bike to the dealer, I hope you have a thick wallet or a good credit rating.

For them to go through the carbs properly and re-jet for your pods, expect to pay well over $500.

If they don't get the jetting quite correct, they will have to remove the carbs again, but will only have to drop the float bowls to change the main jets. Add another $100.

If they need to shim the needles (or just change them), it is not necessary to remove the carbs, but will probably be another $100.

Just how much are you willing to spend on something that you can easily do yourself?

By the way, if they get the jetting wrong on the LEAN side, you may do enough damage to the engine to blow it, so be ready to get another engine and start over.


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[koolaid_kid]

There are several members here who will do an actual quality job of rebuilding the carbs, vs. the slop the dealer will do. And for a lot less coinage, I might add.

[allojohn]

You're fortunate to have a dealership willing to even look at your bike. They must have some old geezers working there.

[Rob S.]

Jet

So jetting does not require complete disassembly of the carbs?

I just bought the bike three months and 500 miles ago. It has a V&H megaphone that could use repacking. It runs great, although it does some popping out the exhaust while it's warming up.

I assume it's a little lean now for two reasons:

1. The airbox is missing it's lid

2. I compromised the fit between the front and rear airbox a week ago while trying to access the battery.

I (think I) know that rich is cool, lean is hot. Correct? I've also read that these air-cooled monsters were jetted richer than would give max power to keep them from overheating.

Appreciate all help.

[tkent02]

They were actually on the lean side in the pilot circuit to get through emmisions testing. Wide open was not overly rich, if you do anything that makes it flow more air it will be too lean.

You can change main jets on the bike if you have tiny tools, dextrous hands, and a lot of patience, but it's not easy. Changing the jet needle osition is easier. If you have pods it's much easier just to pull the carbs again and again and again.

As far as jetting, it is definitely a DIY type operation. No one else will give it the time and attention it needs. Kids in shops today have no clue how a carburetor even works.

[Steve]

So jetting does not require complete disassembly of the carbs?

No, simply re-jetting the carbs only requires removal of the carbs from the bike, then the float bowls from the carbs so you have access to the main jets.

However, it appears that you have not yet gone through and rebuilt the carbs (because your "choke" is hard to operate), that will require complete disassembly. If it's done correctly, it only needs to be done once, and with proper care, it will last for several years.

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