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Do I need a carb teardown?
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Do I need a carb teardown?
Got the new peacock sorted out. I know I'm getting fuel to my carbs. Bike still won't start. It does run if I spray fuel down the tunnel in the filter box towards the airbox and if I put fuel in the jugs and put the plugs back on it will start quickly. I already tore the carbs apart and rebuilt them with an o-ring kit from Robert Barr. Think I need to do it again or did I miss something? I don't think I set the floats correctly though.Tags: None
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harley10
Carbs can be a pain in the assss lol, set your floats , are all passages free and clear, it sounds like your close ,Brian
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Verify the float heights first. If they're OK then get ready for another tear down.
How did you clean the carbs? Did you dip them? Sonic clean them? Poke every hole? Will it run on choke?
I'm assuming that, when you say it will start with gas in the jugs, you're saying that it will start but not keep running. Correct?http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)
Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)
JTGS850GL aka Julius
GS Resource Greetings
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StubbornDutchman
Originally posted by JTGS850GL View PostVerify the float heights first. If they're OK then get ready for another tear down.
How did you clean the carbs? Did you dip them? Sonic clean them? Poke every hole? Will it run on choke?
I'm assuming that, when you say it will start with gas in the jugs, you're saying that it will start but not keep running. Correct?
I'll pull the carbs and check the float heights.
I blew out all of the passages with carb cleaner to make sure they were clear but didn't dip them. I do have dip if needed though. Sounds like that's my next job.
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When you cleaned the carbs (and I'm sure you did ! ) did you clean out the the little hole in bottom of float bowl and the tube that sends extra fuel up into carb throat???? At cold start, bike needs a extra shot of fuel or it's no go!1981 gs650L
"We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin
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harley10
Yeah soak them good , you will not want to this a 3 rd time , lol, Brian , getting close to riding season !!
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Originally posted by StubbornDutchman View PostI blew out all of the passages with carb cleaner to make sure they were clear but didn't dip them. I do have dip if needed though. Sounds like that's my next job.
That's why someone made a carb cleaning tutorial1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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StubbornDutchman
Originally posted by harley10 View PostYeah soak them good , you will not want to this a 3 rd time , lol, Brian , getting close to riding season !!
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Take the basket out of the dip and 2 bodies will fit inside by side..24 hrs in the sauce followed by lots of carb spray and air thru all the passages. Be sure to poke out ALL the holes in the needle jet ( emulsion tube ) and the pilot jets. Be sure to get the tiny hole at the tip of the pilots too.
I pluck a wire from the wooden handled wire brush for poking the holes. Set the idle knob about 2 turns in just after it touches the throttle linkage for the initial start up. Adjust idle once she fires off. And yes, youre gonna have to re bench sync them.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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barnbiketom
Originally posted by chuck hahn View PostTake the basket out of the dip and 2 bodies will fit inside by side..24 hrs in the sauce followed by lots of carb spray and air thru all the passages. Be sure to poke out ALL the holes in the needle jet ( emulsion tube ) and the pilot jets. Be sure to get the tiny hole at the tip of the pilots too.
I pluck a wire from the wooden handled wire brush for poking the holes. Set the idle knob about 2 turns in just after it touches the throttle linkage for the initial start up. Adjust idle once she fires off. And yes, youre gonna have to re bench sync them.
What he said..
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Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post24 hrs in the sauce followed by lots of carb spray and air thru all the passages. ...
I don't skimp on the carb spray, but I can easily do three full sets of carbs, sometimes four sets, on one can of spray.
Just use it to flush, not do all the major cleaning. The "dip" will dissolve the crud, the spray just flushes it out, then the compressed air will make SURE the passage is clear.
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mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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Originally posted by StubbornDutchman View PostGot the new peacock sorted out.
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Steve..carb spray is cheap and I ( personally ) like to flush the heck out of the passages to get the stuff loosened by the dip out as good as possible. Thus my use of the word "lots" as it pertained to my post.
Am I an over achiever when it comes to cleaning them....maybe. But I only have to do them once.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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spyug
Carb cleaning and rebuilding is not just about flushing the carbs and jets. While that is the first important step, it is also important to ensure the floats actually float and that the float valves are in good shape and won't leak. Along with this you do have to set the float height of course. All of this is discussed in the excellent tutorials available on Cliff's amazing site.
In my mind, it's equally important to change out all the O-rings as air infiltration can be a real impediment to properly operating carbs. Trying to figure out why thoroughly cleaned carbs still don't run right often can be down to this. O-rings can and often do look fine but if examined under magnification or deformed by stretching may show cracks or splits that will let air through.
If you don't want to be chasing your tail over poorly running carbs you need to do a through job. There just is no other way.
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GateKeeper
Originally posted by spyug View PostCarb cleaning and rebuilding is not just about flushing the carbs and jets. While that is the first important step, it is also important to ensure the floats actually float and that the float valves are in good shape and won't leak. Along with this you do have to set the float height of course. All of this is discussed in the excellent tutorials available on Cliff's amazing site.
In my mind, it's equally important to change out all the O-rings as air infiltration can be a real impediment to properly operating carbs. Trying to figure out why thoroughly cleaned carbs still don't run right often can be down to this. O-rings can and often do look fine but if examined under magnification or deformed by stretching may show cracks or splits that will let air through.
If you don't want to be chasing your tail over poorly running carbs you need to do a through job. There just is no other way.
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