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    #61
    Did you get the throttle shaft seals installed yet? Mine were leaking and it caused the bike to run way too lean. The general consensus here seems to be to never replace them but i think most people are just too scared to do it. You may as well since you already had the carbs torn apart. It really isn't too bad. The biggest thing is to make sure that all the parts you take off go back to the carb that they were born with. Including the butterfly's. Also get new screws for the butterfly's as well.

    If your intake boots are 30+ years old they need replaced. Period. Mine looked fine too and I never could find any leaks with carb cleaner etc. But i had a high idle problem just like you. Most of the time they don't crack. The rubber separates from the aluminum casting on the mounting flange. You won't always pick up a leak with carb cleaner since it doesn't take that much of a leak to cause a problem. Even though they "look" good doesn't mean they are.

    http://www.partsoutlaw.com/oemparts/...758/carburetor This is the fiche for your carbs. The shaft seals are #26. They are all the same so you need 8 of those. The butterfly screws are #37 you need 8 of those as well.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/390825618121...84.m1439.l2649 Here are the boots i have. They are OEM suzuki boots. That's about as good as it gets as far as price is concerned.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4VJHvqB9F0 Here is how to replace the shaft seals. Its very easy just remember to take your time and do it right!
    Last edited by Guest; 05-18-2014, 10:58 AM.

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      #62
      Thanks

      Yes I have new boots o rings throttle shaft seals...I did pean the screws after reinstalling the butterflys
      I read up and the plugs enable the pilots to draw fuel from the main jet.
      That almost has to be my problem since everything else is brand new and TOTALLY cleaned and soaked in Berrimans
      Symptom high idle AND barley responsive mixture screws.
      THe mixture screws o rings are new as well so Thursday the plugs come in and if I am right it will finally idle right and it will be getting good fuel
      via the mains to the pilots

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        #63
        confirmation

        It is NOT an unused circuit for where the plug covers the pilot.
        I looked at one of my junkers to confirm and there is a hole between
        the pilot housing tube and the main jet tube and i will make sure as the plugs go in new that it is not blocked... should be ok its fairly big hole it is 1/16th of and inch or so and located just below the reach of the plug.

        note as an afterthought... it is conceivable that MY current plugs got squished to far down the shaft over the hole because they are old since my symptoms remind me of when you finish a drink through a straw hence super lean but all other ranges but idle are good ...
        Last edited by Guest; 05-18-2014, 03:15 PM.

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          #64
          Does anybody know if bad rubber pilot plugs cause high idle

          Last night to advance a theory my cvs are prematurely rising to compensate for hard rubber pilot plugs I installed Double springs in the vacuum diaphrams and until the bike warmed up I thought we might be onto something.... I happened to have the large and small springs. Took a ride and the bike was just a little sluggish but still racing the idle..
          Today or Saturday the plugs arrive and I will go back to single springs...
          Anybody cured high idle by replacing the pilot plugs before??

          Thanks

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            #65
            By any chance have you checked your throttle cable to make sure it isn't binding for some reason? I just had the same problem with mine. It would get a crazy high idle seemingly out of nowhere. I could reach down and push on the throttle shaft on the #4 carb and the idle would go back down. I just put more slack in my cable until i can get a new one ordered.

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              #66
              Solved it

              The back "air jets" were on ignore while I chased down things
              they were 150's so I put the 170's back in
              I also added a nylon washer to number three n got rid of the metal one
              I noticed the throttle tab was nearly touching so at somepoint maybe me... maybe not... grabbed the wrong one and it did appear to be rubbing the body as there was an arc of a scratch mark
              Any how the idle fuel jets suddenly became responsive again so at 2 turns out BEAUTIFUL
              Now vac sync time and put the airbox back on

              to review. ALL new o rings new rubber plugs for pilots 112.5 main jet 42.5 pilot 170 airjet
              will see how they like the airbox tonight
              stay "tuned" lol
              Last edited by Guest; 06-06-2014, 03:50 PM.

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                #67
                Definitely interested in your results. I'm fighting basically the same problem with an 82 550L....really hoping the solution doesn't involve taking the carbs off/fighting that infernal airbox again.

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                  #68
                  Cracked the code for SURE !

                  I will say this the airbox and I became very well acquainted
                  It sounds dumb but after reading for tips this is what I do
                  I remove the battery and the battery box then undo the top two airbox bolts and one by your right leg
                  The whole thing moves around and make a huge difference
                  as for going back in I drop the airbox as low as I can and the front of the carbs I bring in over the boots
                  Then I stuff the carbs into the boots
                  Line up the air box and pull the carbs back out towards the airbox boots so they go right on the airbox boots
                  To hold them in place I let the front of the carbs rest on the lips of the front boots to cinch up the airbox
                  As for the solution... to the carbs if the mixture screws don't seem to be responsive ya got the wrong air jets in the back of the carbs and or maybe even the pilots
                  My symptoms happened when my throttles were 100% closed and I guarantee not a vacuum leak for 20 miles
                  So the throttles closed dead engine right?? NOPE
                  Nobody talks about the rear air jets but I bet they do now....
                  I did add a nylon bushing to carb three in leau of a metal washer and swapped the throttle tab for one that most likely came with the carb new
                  It seemed to be rubbing maybe and that could hijack the spring return
                  Not the root cause though I made sure
                  BTW I could tell the problem went away without the airbox on there so if you have a lot of carb trips on and off you can mark progress without the airbox it wont be perfect but its easier troubleshooting
                  Hooking the airbox up is not the end all... be all... people say
                  I got so sick of it I grabbed the pods for at least trying jets out till the idle settled down then back to the airbox to sweeten it up and run right
                  now their vacuum synced airbox on and were talking SWEET

                  p.s this took nearly every day of my time for two months and a 20 yr veteran mechanic could not help he bailed after 5 hours of his time
                  Last edited by Guest; 06-06-2014, 10:54 AM.

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                    #69
                    A huge thank you to EVERYONE

                    NOW that I am back to riding I wanted to thank you ALL
                    I have no idea how many man hours this took but it is truly great to
                    have so many like minded folks out there.
                    I have to say I am in awe of this site and the quality human beings out there adherent to the pay it forward concepts of life.

                    I do hope I can contribute as time goes on by to "carry on the tradition"

                    Paul

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