1982 suzuki gs650glz won't start

[Guest]

Okay so when I first bought the bike it got around 20 miles to the gallon. So I took the carburetors off and rebuilt them. After I put the bike back together I can't get it to start, it's getting spark. And the bowls are filling up, what did I do wrong? (Oh and it sputtered every once in a while when I put the petcock on prime.)

[Steve]

In the process of a full, proper rebuild, it is quite common to not have the idle speed control at that "perfect" spot. Try adjusting it.

Now, let's back up a bit. How did your "rebuild" the carbs? Unless you did the full "strip and dip" cleaning, there is no need to try to get it working now, because you will need to strip them down again, anyway.

.

[tom203]

Another gs650 ?? must be a Chinese factory somewhere turning them out with clogged carbs. Anyways, hopefully you didn't substitute aftermarket carbs parts for the stock ones - except for o-rings,the stock stuff just needs to be cleaned after CAREFUL dismantling. As Steve said, proper strip and dip- no shortcuts or you'll get real good at carb removal and re-install.

read this ......http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/...d_Tutorial.pdf

this model will get 50 mpg fairly easily when it's running right

[RedZed]

I took the carbs off but did not separate them from each other, took every single part off (floats, needles diaphragms, and so on. I ordered 4 rebuild kits for it. Because the pilot jets had been destroyed by the previous owner. So all was replaced. I dipped the carbs in a solution to clean them and re-assembled. And what do you mean I will have to strip them back down? (By the way all new gaskets as well)

[tom203]

See this carb pic ... lots of tiny passages to get clogged,especially if bike has sat for a while. It takes a harsh chemical and time to clean gunk out-( A good ultrasonic might work,but I haven't tried one). By not seperating carbs prior to dipping, you will likely destroy the o-rings in the connector tees- but these should be replaced too.

Looking at pic, did the PO mangle the mixture screw (upper left-going into carb throat) or some other screw?

The "rebuild " carb kits often contain inferior parts to mikuni stuff -These carbs are fussy .Do you have the stock airbox or pod filters?

[Larry D]

Welcome !!!

This what Steve meant.

http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

[RedZed]

I don't think the o-rings are damaged because that would cause a leak wouldn't it? And it was jet that was pointed to. The PO used an incorrect screwdriver to attempt to remove it and stripped the head of it. And I examined the rebuild kit and compared it to oem parts and everything looked up to snuff. And yes I have the original air box on the bike. I read that I would have to re-jet the carbs if I put aftermarket air set up

[tom203]

I don't think the o-rings are damaged because that would cause a leak wouldn't it? And it was jet that was pointed to. .....

Sure they would leak,maybe not right away, but being 32 years old, best to replace them. But more importantly,since they didn't get destroyed, you have to wonder if your cleaning solution is up to the task of crawling into those tiny passages and dissolving goop that might be stuck. If they aren't clean, starting and idling become difficult- in fact your mid range is going to be lousy too. Problems like this are probably #1 reason that these bikes get "abandoned" (given up on) by their owners.. You seem competent to fix it- all we can do is point you in right direction. There's a popular saying on here.. "shortcuts are longcuts."

I love my gs650- it runs superbly at 43k. well worth the effort to fix yours,IF this is your kind of bike.


Do some reading... about common issues on these critters

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/GSR_Greeting.html

[RedZed]

Okay, after looking over the rebuild tutorial I know the air fuel mixture tube are clear. When I was cleaning them I spayed fluid through the pilot jet hole and it came out where it's supposed to. So if the passages are clear. Why would it not be starting? To verify everything is hooked up properly here is what I have: main petcock pipe has a new fuel line with a in line fuel filter connecting to the tube from the middle two carbs. The second pipe off of the petcock is run to the one in the engine side of the carb middle left. The two free spinning tubes that are between the outside and inside carbs have rubber tubing run down past the air box. And one more question. Does all the vacuum come from the compression of the motor? Or what?

[RedZed]

progress

Okay so update, I hadn't attempted to start the bike in 24 hours. But I just went out and first tap of the button and it fired up. And it must have used up whatever fuel it had to do so in a matter of seconds because it died and wouldn't start back up. Any ideas?

[tkent02]

Did you prime the carburetors? Put the petcock on PRI for about thirty seconds, back to ON, then start the engine. The fact that it ran at all means your petcock isn't up to speed.

[tom203]

Regarding hoses go here- Basscliff has info warehouse on these critters

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/hose_locations.html

The "choke" on these bikes is an enrichment system- there is a seperate supply line that feeds extra fuel up from fuel bowl into carb throat.(when you remove bowl, you see a small brass tube). This system must be cleaned out or fuel won't reach carb throat. The proper cold start method is to activate "choke" lever fully, press starter button- DO NOT use any throttle, as this defeats the suction action as engine cranks.
Understand and test your petcock for correct operation.
Why did it briefly fire after 24 hours??? maybe fuel evaporated into carb throats and was ready to go.

[RedZed]

Because I am wanting to do a benchsync once I get the bike started I have about 2+ ft of hose for the fuel and vacuum line to the gas tank right now. Plus a glass inline fuel filter. Since neither of those things are stock, could that be causing it to not get enough vacuum or fuel pressure?

[tom203]

Fuel is just gravity fed thru petcock to fuel bowls- tank must be above carbs with no looping fuel lines!; check that petcock flows fuel to bowls when in "PR" spot- open one bowl drain, put on "PR" and fuel should exit! These bikes really don't need an inline filter- the petcock has one (or did 32 years ago). Try backing off the idle stop screw to close throttle plates further - this puts more vacuum on the enrichment system holes in carb throats and lets extra fuel get sucked up.Make sure that "choke" is actually working at carbs end- the little plungers pull out about 3/8 inch.

[RedZed]

Good to know all of these things. I think the bike will start once I correct them all. I'll let ya'll know when I get off late today.