Adjusting Idle Mixture

[Chris P]

So i rebuilt the carbs on my 82gs650e, first time i started it I needed to use starter fluid(it had been sitting for awhile in the cold)starts up and runs stationary in the driveway. Put it away for a couple of weeks(again it was very cold) take it out today and it needs starter fluid to start, now im trying to use the "Adjusting Idle Mixture using throttle method" paperwork i found on this forum, the problem is Ive turned out the screws about 4 turns and the RPMs are still getting hung up and taking awhile to come back down, according to the paperwork i should continue to rotate counter clockwise, i believe my screws are out too far and im missing something. Does anyone have some advice on where the throttle screw should be in all of this chaos, or approx. how many turns the mixture screws need to be. I did ride the bike down the block and it bogged down a bit, also when i got back to driveway the idle was very high(around 4000). Getting a wee bit frustrated over here!!HELP!!!!!!!

 

[tkent02]

The screws are out too far, the idle speed screw is in way too far. Adust the idle speed when the engine is hot. Use the highest idle method for the mixture screws.

 

[Chris P]

Ok, what is the "highest idle method"?

 

[tkent02]

Do a search on this site, it's easy to find. I can help you if you need it, but not right now.

 

[tom203]

Maybe this will help

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/highest_rpm_plug_chop.html


Could you sum up your "carb rebuild" ? did you bench sync the carbs, so the throttle plates are uniformly just about closed when on idle stop screw ? did you replace the o-rings at boot/cylinder head interface?

 

[rapidray]

You are having to back the mixture screws so far out because the PILOT JETS ARE PLUGGED!!! Disassemble & CLEAN the carbs correctly before trying to tune to bad maintenance. Ray.

 

[Chris P]

carb rebuild went like this: Rookie mistake made by purchasing "rebuild kit" from Z1 enterprises. The rebuild went well, everything matched up and I was sure to clean out each port, very thorough. as far as bench sync goes what i did was use a paper clip and adjusted the plates to that thickness, making sure they were the same. I have not replaced the o-rings, the guy i bought it from told me he had replaced the boots in the past year, that was a little over a year ago. Thanks for the link, never would have thought to look up "plug chop".

 

[Chris P]

Respect your opinion on the carb clean, i just dont understand how, if they are brand new they could be clogged. Just looking for some explanation thats all, not trying to say your wrong. What could have clogged them?

 

[Guest]

Did you soak the carburetor bodies in carburetor cleaner for 24hrs? You can get the O-rings from http://www.cycleorings.com/

 

[Chris P]

I did not soak the bodies for 24 hrs, but like i said i sprayed every hole with carb cleaner and ran a thin wire through them as well. Is this common for it to run at idle ok, and then when you throttle up it hangs up there and stays. In other words, this problem can stem all the back to the pilot screws lets say??

 

[Nessism]

Problem here is you short cutted the rebuild. It's hard to know what's wrong now. I do know that the intake boot O-rings commonly leak and cause a hanging idle. I also know the bike won't run properly without the airbox and an air filter in place. You might want to read the Newbie Mistakes thread linked in my signature to see if anything strikes close to home.

 

[Chris P]

That exact thread is how i knew i made the "newbie mistake". The air box and air filter are in place. I guess i will start with intake boot o rings. Thanks. I only hope the ol girl can learn to forgive my newbie mistakes and she comes around.

 

[Guest]

When you put your carburetor bodies in the dip to soak, you will see the crud boiling out that you missed. The proof will be there before your own eyes. You wasted your time this time around. There are no short cuts, but practice makes perfect.

 

[Chris P]

OldVet66, so should i disassemble the carburetor completely? take out all the jets and stuff? Or just remove all the rubber and dip the carb(all together) into the carb dip?

 

[rapidray]

Separate the 4 bodies & remove all the jets, slides & emulsion tubes. Remove the fuel cross over tubes & vent tubes. Do NOT remove the shafts or throttle blades! Soak all of the parts 24 hours, including all the STOCK pilot jets. Reassemble & reinstall the stock pilot jets instead of the K&Ls. Get back to us when you get to that point. Ray.

 

[Guest]

What rapidray said. Order your O-rings while you are soaking the carburetors.

 

[cowboyup3371]

You can not properly clean them if they are still ganged together.

 

[Badooka]

Make sure you use the proper size screw driver as mentioned in Nessism's tutorial.
Go slow and do it right. Put plenty of pressure on those brass jets when removing or you will strip them. Follow the steps and you will be fine. Take notes while doing it- because you will forget things. Stop working when you get fatigued.

 

[Chris P]

Ok so the carbs are back out, and ill begin to disassemble and soak them in carb cleaner this week. I took the boots off and these are what the gaskets look like, no visible cracks in the gaskets and NO cracks or wear in the boots themselves, ill probably order new gaskets anyways bc they are rather cheap. While I have all this apart, Is there anything else I should take care of while this area is open? I removed the air box in order to clean it up a bit, any suggestions on that?

 

[rapidray]

Just because there are no visible cracks doesn't mean there are no air leaks. If the manifolds are 30+ years old they can be hard & not sealing. Are they hard or still pliable? If it were MINE, it would be getting all new carb orings, new manifold orings & new manifolds. Ray.