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    Frozen intake boot bolts...

    Any tips on how to remove stuck intake boot bolts? I've read Bikecliff's page on Intake Boot replacement, and tried the impact tool. All I'm accomplishing is chewing up the phillips head. I thought I saw a thread on the subject, but can't find it in an hour of searching. Anyone tried heat? The boots themselves are not bad, and I don't want to mess them up... or bust a bolt.

    #2
    You can always either cut a notch in the head or use a chisel to make the head suitable for a straight bit in the impact driver.

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      #3
      They are not Philips head screws, they are JIS screw heads, and that is why your Philips screwdriver is not helping you out much...

      as mentioned, if you don't have the right one, cut a slot and use a flat blade screwdriver

      .

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        #4
        Take a phillips screwdriver and file off just a bit of the tip. It will then simulate the JIS screwdriver and fit properly in your JIS screws.

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          #5
          I used a pair of needle nose vice-grips, there was enough room to just grab the screw head and kind of "worried" one out. After that, you can spin the boot counter-clock-wise to loosen the other screw.
          Larry D
          1980 GS450S
          1981 GS450S
          2003 Heritage Softtail

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            #6
            Impact drivers work if you hold them in tightly and get a good solid hit. Otherwise they tear up the screw head. The boots are not in the best place to properly use an impact driver but will come loose with a good solid hit. Changing the screws for Allen head screws are recommended once you get them off.
            http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

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              #7
              I usually just drill the heads off and use a pair of Vice Grips if they get that bad. The slot and slotted impact driver tip works fine too. Use Anti-sieze with your new bolts, so the next guy doesn't have the same problem.
              http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

              Life is too short to ride an L.

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                #8
                Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                ... so the next guy doesn't have the same problem.
                What next guy ? he's owned the bike for 30 years, he ain't losing it now!
                1981 gs650L

                "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

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                  #9
                  Then it's even more important! The next guy will be him!
                  Too bad he didn't do it last time!
                  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                  Life is too short to ride an L.

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                    #10
                    I have never had any problems removing those screws with my impact driver and the #3 Phillips bit that comes with it.

                    Keep in mind that the head of most drivers is removable, and you can use 3/8" socket extensions to move the handle back to where you can get a good swing at it with a hammer.

                    .
                    sigpic
                    mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                    hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                    #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                    #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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                      #11
                      I just got back from the garage to report success on all eight bolts without any damage.

                      I ended up cutting a notch in the four upper bolts with a Dremel tool fitted with a small abrasive disk, modified a 3/8" drive Torque bit to make a flat blade, and fit it to a small air impact wrench. A few short bursts on low air pressure did the trick. I tapped the boot housing counterclockwise as recommended, and the bottom bolts came out easily with a hand philips (JIS) screwdriver.

                      I had already ordered the o-rings and stainless bolts from cycleorings so I'm good to go.

                      It looks like these boots had been off at some point, since there was black sealant under all of them. Makes me wonder what else I might find in the process of bringing the beast back to life.

                      Thanks for all the replies.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Electric Impact Driver OK?

                        All,

                        I'm trying to get these same boot screws off of the '83 GS650GL I'm restoring.

                        I have a hand tool (manual) impact driver, but there is no where near enough room to get the tool in line with the screws and hit it with a hammer.

                        So, can I use a powered impact driver, or will I just bugger up the screw heads too badly by trying a power tool?

                        I've got a DeWalt 20V cordless impact driver that I can try. I thought I'd take one of the phillips bits, file down the tip a bit to get a good fit and give it a try.

                        Good idea, or will I just mess up the screws?

                        ***

                        Comment


                          #13
                          It could work, or it might booger up the screws. On a 650 it's tight, but with several socket extensions you can get the impact on it from the rear wheel area where there's room to swing the hammer. Might have to take the inner fender off or something. I know it's possible, done it on a few 650s.
                          http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                          Life is too short to ride an L.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Why not just take a dremel, cut a straight slot, and then use a flat-bladed screwdriver or chisel and knock it loose that way. Once you have them out, replace them with allen heads
                            Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

                            1981 GS550T - My First
                            1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
                            2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

                            Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
                            Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
                            and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

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                              #15
                              WingMan71...

                              Your DeWalt 20V cordless impact driver is the perfect tool for the job. All I had locally was my small air wrench and it worked fine, but your cordless drill has an adjustable collar around the chuck, I believe, that will permit you to dial in the impact setting progressively higher as needed, while maintaining perfect control of the drill, and keeping the bit blade on the bolt head. Also, because it is cordless, you won't have the clearance problems associated with the hand driver or the air hose getting in the way of a straight shot to the bolt. Using the cordless, I would even try the JIS bit before cutting the notch...with the control you will have, you may find it will work without damage to the head.

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