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    Unique Problem on a GS700

    Hey All! I have done some searching and not been able to find any answer to this issue. I am brand new here so be nice if I missed something.

    I have had a GS700 for about a year now. It was a great deal on craigslist, only $1000 with <9000 original miles. It had a 4-into-1 header with a Vance & Hines slip on and 4 pod filters. I noticed the bike yawned out pretty badly and suspected they never rejetted the carbs. When I went to take them apart there were all sorts of stripped screws and every single pilot screw had to be drilled out. Unfortunately, one of the screws didn't cooperate and I am left with a 4th carburetor with a stuck tip and eaten up threads. Garbage. (Unless you all can help me fix that?).

    So I went on ebay, and looked up the part number of the carb I needed, lo and behold I found one, still in its original packaging, new. I got it in the mail, swapped out the jets, but noticed it looked a little different. It has a larger diameter slide and a larger diameter engine-side outlet (but small enough to squeeze into the boots with significant help from a jack-strap). The choke linkage, float bowl tubes, and just about everything else was a perfect fit, so I figured I would roll with it.

    I didn't have a chance to ride it much after this, as it was vandalized shortly after, TWICE, and I had no time to fix it. A couple months went by and I knew I had to clean the carbs when it didn't start. I cleaned the carbs and checked the float levels just to be sure, since it was about the only thing I didn't do when I rebuilt them, and they were all way low (that is, they allowed in too much fuel), including the brand new one which I never touched (weird, huh?). So, I adjusted all of them up to 22.4 mm (letting in less fuel), measuring from the gasket surface to the lower "step" of the float, with the floats sitting on the needle, no compressed spring.

    I adjusted the valves (which required removing the coils, I may have mixed some wire up). I also replaced the spark plugs as they were pretty fouled from running on choke for too long. The bike starts up (with some difficulty), and idles erratically (seems like a hanging idle), but still holds an idle. I took it for a spin just to see how it ran, and it had very little power. It felt like it was only running on 2 cylinders. If I gave it any more than 1/2 throttle, nothing. In fact, more throttle made it backfire even worse. It could hardly keep up 45 mph on a slight incline, and definitely wouldn't exceed 55 regardless. Where do you all think I should look? What might cause the 1/2 to WOT no-power backfiring?

    I should note that I have ridden it while it ran reasonably well, with the current jetting, shims, drilled slides, pod filters and exhaust. It had plenty of power. Also note that the carb has been recently cleaned, and I am using high-octane fuel, no ethanol, with seafoam. Any help is much appreciated.

    #2
    Greetings and Salutations!!!

    Hi Mr. thebaker4,

    See the carb cleaning/servicing "how to" guides in the links below. Proper jetting for modified intake and exhaust is pretty much an art that must be learned by trial-and-error because every bike is different. There are formulas that will give you starting points and ball-park sizes, then you must tweak from there. Replace carb parts with only factory OEM parts. Anything else will give you fits. You'll find lots more information in the links below.

    If you are here you probably have a 30 year old motorcycle that needs about 20 years worth of maintenance. In the links below you'll find maintenance lists, documentation, wiring diagrams, "how to" guides, vendor links, tips, tricks, and a whole lot of GS goodness. This is your "mega-welcome". Let's get started.

    Let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'.

    I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

    If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

    Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...



    Please Click Here For Your Mega-Welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

    More links to helpful threads in the forum:
    Help! Your Bike Won't Start
    DON'T DO THESE THINGS
    Help! Your Bike Won't Run Well
    Oh God! Pods!



    Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

    Thank you for your indulgence,

    BassCliff

    Comment


      #3
      Hey Basscliff! Thanks for the welcome. I have actually been using your website and the forums as reference for some time now. Like I listed at the end of the article, I think the current configuration of the carburetor is good minus the pilot screws, possibly the sync, and possibly the floats. This is because those are the only things I have changed since it ran well. Do you think it could be any of those things? Or perhaps I connected the coils improperly? Would it even run if so? The boots have been inspected and rings replaced when I first rebuilt the carbs if memory serves. Robert Barr's page was a lot easier than tracking down the appropriate pieces to everything. I used the guide on your website to rebuild the carbs, and pre- and post- adjusting the sync, and adjusting the floats as specified. I am getting a part in the mail soon to check the fuel height in the carb.

      I am now realizing as I write this that somehow the correct part number for my broken carb 13204-06A00 was on the wrong part. Weird. I must have been given a larger bore Mikuni BS34 or 36. I guess ebay isn't to be trusted always, who knew haha. I am very interested in what you all may have to say about trying to match a BS34 (or 36?) with BS32SSs. I am guessing this is not advisable. I would be interested if I could take a BS32 from another less rare GS, say a GS550?

      I should also note that there is a new fuel filter and petcock, and I have recently stripped and re-coated the tank with POR-15. Good stuff! This bike has been a bit of a project if that's not already apparent.

      Best,
      Dave
      Last edited by Guest; 03-25-2014, 02:18 PM.

      Comment


        #4
        ".... should note that I have ridden it while it ran reasonably well, with the current jetting, shims, drilled slides, pod filters and exhaust. It had plenty of power. Also note that the carb has been recently cleaned, and I am using high-octane fuel, no ethanol, with seafoam. Any help is much appreciated. "

        Since it ran reasonably well before with current setup, one has to suspect either your carb work or the vandalism. Sounds like it might be running on 2 cylinders, so check ignition system out. The left coil fires 1 and 4, the right 2 and 3. Make sure you got about 12 volts (orange/white wire) feeding + on coil with ignition and kill switch on ; check all connectors in ignitor to coil wiring.
        You'll need the correct carb to get it too run perfectly- but the bigger carb probably would not cause your current lack of power.
        1981 gs650L

        "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by tom203 View Post
          Sounds like it might be running on 2 cylinders, so check ignition system out. The left coil fires 1 and 4, the right 2 and 3. Make sure you got about 12 volts (orange/white wire) feeding + on coil with ignition and kill switch on ; check all connectors in ignitor to coil wiring.
          You'll need the correct carb to get it too run perfectly- but the bigger carb probably would not cause your current lack of power.
          !!!
          You got to be kidding me! I knew I messed up somewhere doing that. Dang! I feel like a dunce. But for pointing that out, genuinely, THANK YOU! I am looking at the diagram on bikecliff's site now and it is obvious where I screwed up:




          Originally posted by tom203 View Post
          You'll need the correct carb to get it too run perfectly- but the bigger carb probably would not cause your current lack of power.
          Well as I go searching, I don't think I will be able to find the exact gs700 carb easily, at least without spending a fortune on the whole set. I have found a few BS32SSs from other bikes on ebay, though. I see that Kawasaki and Yamaha also have bikes with BS32s on them. I am using the spreadsheet on bikecliff's site for finding ones on Suzuki. Do you think there is any issue here?

          Best
          Dave

          Comment


            #6
            Lots of bikes used the BS32-with different jetting. Which carb do you need? (As you sit on bike,they are numbered 1 to 4 with #1 under your clutch hand.) post in parts wanted forum. Are you sure your original carb is unrepairable -there are folks on here who enjoy fixing someone's butchering!
            1981 gs650L

            "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

            Comment


              #7
              Maybe it's just me but it is pretty easy to tell if a bike is running on 2,3 or 4 cylinders just by the sound of it. And you can always find out by checking to see if one or more pipes don't get hot when it's running.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by tom203 View Post
                Lots of bikes used the BS32-with different jetting. Which carb do you need? (As you sit on bike,they are numbered 1 to 4 with #1 under your clutch hand.) post in parts wanted forum. Are you sure your original carb is unrepairable -there are folks on here who enjoy fixing someone's butchering!
                It is the number 4 BS32SS. I know the 550, 750 and 850 all used these. I am trying to figure out if I could replace it with another #2 or #3, as I can't find any #4s.

                The pilot screw got stuck and was stripped pretty badly, just like all the others. The others faired okay with a drill and some patience, but on #4 the bit went straight through the screw without budging. Now the threads are looking pretty bad, and the tip is still lodged in there. Here is a pic:



                Do you think it is savable? I went to a local machine shop and they thought it would be more effort than it's worth. One of the cheaper carbs online that I was considering is here:



                Hard to find ones that are #4 BS32

                Originally posted by Maddevill View Post
                Maybe it's just me but it is pretty easy to tell if a bike is running on 2,3 or 4 cylinders just by the sound of it. And you can always find out by checking to see if one or more pipes don't get hot when it's running.
                That is a good point. The bike didn't sound terrible, but then again it has never run right and has a pretty noisy exhaust, so I couldn't tell you for sure. I did remember feeling the #1 and #4 fins on the motor and they were both hot. They were also the only two cylinders that were responding to my sync attempts. I know the wires are connected wrong though, I hooked up the left coil to #1 and #2, the right to #3 and #4.

                Best,
                Dave
                Last edited by Guest; 03-25-2014, 04:16 PM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  That carb is a #2, it will not work. You need a #4.

                  All the fours from 550 through 850 used BS32s, but there were some spacing differences between carbs 2 and 3. I don't think that #4 carb is any different.

                  I have a few carbs at home. I know that I have at least one #4 carb, but am waiting for word from another member whether he needs it. If he does not need it, it's yours, if you want it.

                  .
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                  Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                  (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                  Comment


                    #10
                    For clarity, when you say the "pilot screw" ,do you mean the pilot jet (resides in tunnel next to main jet) or what some call the idle/air mixture screw which is on top of carb throat exit near carb boot?
                    1981 gs650L

                    "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Steve View Post
                      That carb is a #2, it will not work. You need a #4.

                      All the fours from 550 through 850 used BS32s, but there were some spacing differences between carbs 2 and 3. I don't think that #4 carb is any different.

                      I have a few carbs at home. I know that I have at least one #4 carb, but am waiting for word from another member whether he needs it. If he does not need it, it's yours, if you want it.

                      .
                      That would be AWESOME!
                      If that doesn't work out, could you take a look here? I can't find much info on whether this is a bs32ss, but it is a Mikuni BS.



                      EDIT: I found the carbs on another site, they are BS28s. No Good!

                      Originally posted by tom203 View Post
                      For clarity, when you say the "pilot screw" ,do you mean the pilot jet (resides in tunnel next to main jet) or what some call the idle/air mixture screw which is on top of carb throat exit near carb boot?
                      I mean the screw, for adjusting fuel/air mixture. Oddly enough, I had to drill out all four pilot jets too, though they were soft brass and so no problem.
                      Last edited by Guest; 03-25-2014, 05:56 PM.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I have a "spares" carb set off an 83 750,#1 is already gone so I could give you a #4 body.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          That sounds great! I sent you a PM.

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