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Nike stalls when letting clutch out

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    Nike stalls when letting clutch out

    I have a 79 gs750 that has straight pipes and will have pods it has been jetted. I know the carb to head boots are no good also looking for a set of those. It cranks and idles good, but when I put it in gear and start to let the clutch out it stalls and cuts off. I have tried high revs and dumping the clutch and starting in 2 gear also. When in gear and not cranked I can pull the clutch in and push the bike around any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also this is a bobber so it has minimal wiring

    #2
    I'd open up the clutch. Sounds like it's binding.
    Can you pull the clutch and push the bike in first without it running?
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      Yes I can put the bike in gear and it doesn't move. Pull the clutch in and it goes. It worked until I redid the wiring

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        #4
        Bypass the clutch interlock switch. It's the switch at the clutch lever that goes into the headlight bucket.
        You crossed something up there.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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          #5
          I will have to check the switch wires. I didn't put any wires in my new harness for one

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            #6
            Originally posted by Klaoutdoors View Post
            I know the carb to head boots are no good also looking for a set of those.
            That would be high on my list of things to do since it's a KNOWN issue.

            Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
            Bypass the clutch interlock switch. It's the switch at the clutch lever that goes into the headlight bucket.
            You crossed something up there.
            Not sure how a clutch interlock switch could cause a running engine to stall? As I understand it, that switch only controls power going to the electric starter motor. Once the engine is running it would have no effect. I would think that, even if the wires were all crossed up, then it would still stall when in neutral with the clutch let out.

            What happens if you try to put it in gear with the bike on the center stand? Does it still stall when you let the clutch out?
            http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
            1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
            1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
            1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

            Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

            JTGS850GL aka Julius

            GS Resource Greetings

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              #7
              I think I figured out what is let me know if this would not cause this issue. My left two cylinders are not getting hot when running. I'm pretty sure it's a valve clearance issue. Would this cause the bike to stall when trying to go

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                #8
                I don't think improper valve clearance would cause these symptoms, but check the clearance anyway if you haven't already. (Hint: it's not an optional maintenance item.)

                After that, you'll have to narrow down the cause. It's probably not ignition related if cylinders 3 and 4 are working. You can check compression, but it's probably fine.

                Have you cleaned your carbs? No, I mean really cleaned your carbs? http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...rb_rebuild.pdf

                Hmm, I noticed you said the intake boots are no good. Replace those before messing with anything else. If they're leaking air, nothing else you do will help.
                Charles
                --
                1979 Suzuki GS850G

                Read BassCliff's GSR Greeting and Mega-Welcome!

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by eil View Post
                  I don't think improper valve clearance would cause these symptoms, but check the clearance anyway if you haven't already. (Hint: it's not an optional maintenance item.)

                  After that, you'll have to narrow down the cause. It's probably not ignition related if cylinders 3 and 4 are working. You can check compression, but it's probably fine.

                  Have you cleaned your carbs? No, I mean really cleaned your carbs? http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...rb_rebuild.pdf

                  Hmm, I noticed you said the intake boots are no good. Replace those before messing with anything else. If they're leaking air, nothing else you do will help.
                  Agreed... Having cylinders 3 and 4 not firing would lean toward carb related issues. The valve adjustment must be done but it would have to be WAY off in order to cause a no fire situation. Leaking intake boots are a no brainer. Get them replaced and adjust the valves while you rebuild the carbs.
                  http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
                  1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
                  1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
                  1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

                  Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

                  JTGS850GL aka Julius

                  GS Resource Greetings

                  Comment

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