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Hi first time bike owner and forum user. Got my 81 GS750 home this weekend found air filter can not connected to air box. Further inspection found air box about an inch or more away from frame with piece wood dowel between frame and air box supporting it, wtf. Some kind of mod, I am trying to determine if this is because last guy could not get it to fit and did this or maybe replaced air box with smaller one and it just does not fit right, it looks right. How wide is stock air box, about, on this bike.
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Frank,Originally posted by Frank View Post
The air box is a little wider than the carbs, it sounds like you need to go online and search for oem parts diagram and compare with what you have. -
Looks like thisComment
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That looks more like a '79 1000 airbox that has been forced to fit than the stock '81 750 one...
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Hi Frank.
Let me be the first to welcome you to the forum.
Welcome to the forum.
I am thinking you are missing a few bolts!
These carbs can be a pain to instal.
I have a trick for it, but first lets see if you are missing a few parts.
This first picture is from the top of the bike with the tank removed.
The bolts I am questioning will be under the large plate you see and are fitted through a small plate underneath it and into the airbox from there.
I marked the aprox placement in red.
In the next picture I am standing on the left of the bike looking from the front over the carbs, you will see the two bolts in the back.
A link to a parts fiche, this is for the E model but appears to be the same as the L.
You can see one of the bolts above the airbox.
It would be my guess that the previous owner while reinstalling the carbs could not get them to sit right, forgot about the bolts and used the piece of dowel to compensate for the height.
If you are lucky they are screwed into the airbox still but not in the frame.
Chances are that you are not so lucky.
There may be someone on this forum with a set, you could try posting a add in the parts wanted section.
The next couple of pictures are in-case you cannot find them anywhere.
My micrometers are standard and not metric so take that into account if you have to find replacements elsewhere.
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I forgot to mention what a pain in the ^$$ those two bolts can be to get in and out.
I used a long extension with a swivel on the socket end.
I wrote this in answer to another person having difficulties in getting his airbox aligned.
He already had the carbs off the bike.
You may need to start from scratch.
You may be able to get away with loosening the clamps on the head to carb boots and twisting them to positions where your airbox will align with your filter housing.
I am doubtful it will be that easy.
Chances are that the carb to airbox boots are not sitting on the carbs flush as they should be.
Take note as to the order of attachment.
What you need to do is attach the airbox to carb boots first.
After that you twist in the head to carb boots.
This is what I do to get the carbs/airbox/filter housing in the correct placement.
Remove the filter housing.
Loosen the airbox to frame bolts to where they will just hold in the airbox. (this will give you a bit of room to slide airbox around without the agrivation of trying to get the bolts back in when everything else is proper and tight)
Use a object to hold the carbs up level to bike for attaching the choke and throttle cables. (the right side works best and you want your carb stand high enough to hold the carbs up with cables attached so you can take a breather without having to hang the carbs off the cables)
Attach the choke and carb cables being sure the carbs will insert into airbox without twisting the cables.
Slide carbs into correct area while insuring the clutch cable is gently positioned into bracket on side of carbs for it. (the clutch cable will hang them up otherwise)
Slide carbs onto airbox boots and tighten clamps while making sure the boots are positioned correctly on carbs.
(I am sure many peoples airboxes are warped around the boot area and after attaching to carbs correctly you can use some heat to let the carbs pull it back into shape)
Boots at head.
Start with the two innermost boots and push smallest area of boot into largest gap between carbs and head and twist back and forth to seat them.
Temporarily reattach the filter housing to the airbox and position the two seated boots by twisting them to level out and correctly position the filter housing.
Remove the filter housing again.
Mark the top center on the two boots with a paint marker or a piece of tape.( They will be offset from each other,make sure the area is clean first and the paint drys well before next stage)
Put the two remaining boots on using the same method. (the marks on the other boots are in case you have to move them to get the two outside boots into position)
Make sure the boots are all seated correctly and not causing each other to bind at all.
Tighten clamps. (be sure to position screws on clamps to where they will not interact with the throttle or choke)
Tighten the airbox to frame bolts.
I clean and mark my head to carb boots before I remove them so less trouble the next time.
Tried to take a few picts as how my front boots are twisted to give you a idea of how they will look.
You will see that mine are marked with cylinder number and a line at the top to align them. (looks like my mark is off a bit on a couple)
If you get them on correct I would recommend doing this after in case they ever need to be taken off again.
This last photo is with my bike on a lift.
I am pretty sure the rear tire is in a raised position (its off so I cannot confirm that)
You may need to print and compare angles with your head to observe the level you will want.
Hope this helps.Comment
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Thanks for the quick response and the welcome. Raining real hard right now and I'm working outside, so as soon as it stops I will go through your suggestions. So glad I found this site, the service dept at the local Suzuki dealer called it junk crap and suggested I buy a new bike. I'll let you know how it goes.Comment
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