first time starting since carb rebuild/cleaning

[GateKeeper]

Ha Ha, shipping to me in Canada by Priority post $27.13. No thanks.

I just checked amazon.ca. They have the Motion Pro Tool for $23.10 but want $57 for shipping! WTF?

I ordered mine from amazon.com and had it shipped to detroitmailbox.com free. If you are close to the border there may be similar places you can ship to. Even a UPS store would work.

K

get the carbtune and the screwdriver from here

http://www.carbtune.co.uk/carbdtls.html

http://www.carbtune.co.uk/carbtool.html

you can't beat his prices....

http://www.carbtune.co.uk/carbpric.html

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sorry for the HighJack......

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[growler]

found some good info after searching "wet plug.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=2014608&postcount=28

maybe 2 1/2 turns is too much for cylinder two. gonna pull all the plugs and see if any others are wet. after i get my carbtool (hopefully today) i can get the mixture set correctly and carbs synched....would that possibily eliminate the issue and get #2 working again? spark is bluish. just put four new NGKs in there.

[growler]

crap. i forgot to plug the vacuum line.

i'll do that and begin the steps all over again. newbie mistake!

Sounds like you are proceeding correctly... don't forget to plug the vacuum port on the carbs (put a screw in the end of the vacuum line to plug it off) when using an isolated tank set-up like you've described. Run the petcock on Prime & you won't need to run the vacuum line back to the petcock.

[hikermikem]

crap. i forgot to plug the vacuum line.

i'll do that and begin the steps all over again. newbie mistake!

Ha, not necessarily a newbie mistake, I still forget to plug it off myself on occasion...

[JTGS850GL]

Just add a little 3in1 or graphite oil to the throttle shaft where they go into and out of each carb. Should help things slide along better.

[Wingsconsin]

crap. i forgot to plug the vacuum line.

This was going to be my suggestion about the #2 problem as I was reading through the thread. Even a small leak at the plug can and will mess up the synch process. Using a screw to plug the line can lead to a leak as the air moves down the threads of the screw... I like to use a GOLF TEE .. or some other like item as it plugs the line completely without leaks...

Looks like you are well on your way now....

[growler]

perfect. thanks!

Just add a little 3in1 or graphite oil to the throttle shaft where they go into and out of each carb. Should help things slide along better.

[growler]

i bought a small assortment of vacuum caps (line/tube caps, etc) from the auto parts place when i was picking up a new battery for my truck this weekend. 2 bucks, but got a bunch of different sizes. i'll try again, this time with it plugged.

This was going to be my suggestion about the #2 problem as I was reading through the thread. Even a small leak at the plug can and will mess up the synch process. Using a screw to plug the line can lead to a leak as the air moves down the threads of the screw... I like to use a GOLF TEE .. or some other like item as it plugs the line completely without leaks...

Looks like you are well on your way now....

[growler]

it's amazing how much better it ran with the vacuum line plugged.

hah! number 2 is firing and no wet tip anymore. for the first time since i've owned it the bike started fine on choke, and after warming up for about a minute was idling at 1000 rpms off choke without issues. i didn't have much time last night to do anything, but i did try using the highest idle method to set the air mixture screws. i couldn't really find that sweet spot. maybe my ears aren't accustomed to tuning them just yet, but after i set idle at 1300 and begin trying to work on the mix of #1, i was having a hard time hearing an obvious gain/loss in idle. maybe my lack of time rushed it. i was happy with a steady idle off choke with no random surges in idle.

maybe i'll vacuum sync since it's idling fine and then try to adjust the air mixture screws.

[Wingsconsin]

Baby steps towards enlightenment and success

I have experienced the same issue with #2 during a carb synch and tuning - the vacuum 'plug' was leaking and it never came up to temperature like the others...once it was plugged -- much better

Our resident expert - STEVE - needs to come on here and explain his method of setting & tuning carbs using the vacuum synch as a guide. His theory is that the vacuum is highest when the carb is pulling properly and all the carbs are in synch. he can explain it a lot better than I ...

I watched him do it on my GS850 GL and it runs like it is brand new (maybe better) ...

[850 Combat]

That is a nice-enough tool (I kinda wish I had one ), but it will be "fun" trying to fit it on the center adjuster.




That tool is for reaching under the VM carbs (1979 and older bikes) to adjust the fuel screw. You won't need it for your bike.

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You just remove the choke cable bracket.

I like it for my CV equipped bikes. Its much easier.

[mrbill5491]

I accidently discovered you can use your synch tool to set the idle mixture screws. I had my synch gauge hooked up and was about to do the fastest idle method when I noticed the the levels were changing on the synch tool as I was working on it. So I more or less did an experiment with it. I went through each mixture screw and watch how it corresponded with the synch. Once I got the mixtures set pretty even then went on to synch the carbs. I've never heard that motor run that smooth before. Even new!

[hikermikem]

I accidently discovered you can use your synch tool to set the idle mixture screws. I had my synch gauge hooked up and was about to do the fastest idle method when I noticed the the levels were changing on the synch tool as I was working on it. So I more or less did an experiment with it. I went through each mixture screw and watch how it corresponded with the synch. Once I got the mixtures set pretty even then went on to synch the carbs. I've never heard that motor run that smooth before. Even new!

I've never used the synch gage to set idle, but it does sound interesting.

So you essentially turn each mix screw (one-at-a-time) until you achieve the highest level of vacuum with each carb? Then synch the carbs to each other using the butterfly adjusters?

Is that pretty much it?

[Wingsconsin]

Resident Experience Now Required

Paging STEVE ---

[Steve]

OK, I heard ya.

The idea is close, but the sequence needs to change.

1. Do a vacuum sync, get all the levels where they are supposed to be.

2. NOW, do a fine-tuning of the mixture screws.

The reason I feel the order is important is that if one cylinder is basically closed off on the vacuum sync (really high vacuum level), it is basically not contributing to the overall running of the engine, and it won't matter how much you turn the mixture screw, it won't make any difference. Do the vacuum sync first so you know that each cylinder is contributing to the overall running, then you can see the difference that each mixture screw will make.

The theory behind using the vacuum gauge to set the idle mixture is this:
The cylinder is trying to draw in a certain amount of air, the throttle is restricting it, causing a vacuum. If you can get the engine to run faster with the same throttle opening, the vacuum level will be higher. When you adjust the mixture screw to find that "happy" mixture, the engine will run faster, creating more vacuum. Please note that it will not just go up in that one cylinder. Since the whole engine is running faster, ALL the cylinders will show a higher vacuum.

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