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    #16
    Good luck......

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      #17
      I had my 1100 years ago in slightly off stock form. With a 4 into 1 V&H pipe and pods, I could not reach redline above 3rd gear. Byron Hines hisself told me to run the smallest jet possible that would let me get redline. Turned out I was a size or so too big. He suggested stepping down until I could find redline, and stop there. I had a real hard runner after that.

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        #18
        Originally posted by Gs1100e82 View Post
        the ones i took out were 118's and they had a smaller head on them. if so that would make them equal to 128 mk right?
        The size of the head does not matter all that much.

        If you had 118 mains, they were probably DynoJet. A DJ118 is equivalent to a Mikuni 110, not a 128. That was only one size larger than stock.

        Stock jetting on your bike was 107.5. With the V&H race pipe, you might need 4 or 5 size increase. With the K&N pods another 5 or 6 sizes. Guessing on the approximate 10 size increase, that would be 132.5 as a starting point. The DynoJet equivalent would be 142.
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          #19
          alright guys, thanks for the helpful info.

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            #20
            Keep in mind most here are familiar with the Dynojet kits. The factory pro needles have a much different taper that almost looks stock. When I bought my needles from ray, I think he said I'd end up somewhere around 140 - I tried 138.5, 140, 142.5 and 145's before I settled on 142.5's. But as was stated earlier, every bike's a bit different - you'll just have to experiment. Luckily, the pods simplify removing the carbs because you're going to have to do it several times. Btw 47.5 is common pilot jet and you can change clip position with the carbs on the bike.
            -1980 GS1100 LT
            -1975 Honda cb750K
            -1972 Honda cl175
            - Currently presiding over a 1970 T500

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              #21
              Originally posted by Tom R View Post
              Keep in mind most here are familiar with the Dynojet kits. The factory pro needles have a much different taper that almost looks stock. When I bought my needles from ray, I think he said I'd end up somewhere around 140 - I tried 138.5, 140, 142.5 and 145's before I settled on 142.5's. But as was stated earlier, every bike's a bit different - you'll just have to experiment. Luckily, the pods simplify removing the carbs because you're going to have to do it several times. Btw 47.5 is common pilot jet and you can change clip position with the carbs on the bike.
              Are you saying with a stock GS1100 16V pods and pipe but using a Factory Pro needle you needed at MK142.5 Main instead of a MK127.5???

              Did you do plugs chops or use a WB02 and how did you determine the main jet setting?

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                #22
                I wish I had a wide band, but just plug chops - yes Mikuni jets. When I bought the bike it had the current pods, a rusty V&H megaphone, stock needles raised up and 142.5 jets - I put in some '83 cams and the super sport exhaust. Supposedly it was dyno tuned by a shop in Markham by previous owner, but who knows. It's always pulled great on the top end, but feels much better in the midrange now.
                Last edited by Tom R; 05-09-2014, 12:41 AM.
                -1980 GS1100 LT
                -1975 Honda cb750K
                -1972 Honda cl175
                - Currently presiding over a 1970 T500

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by Tom R View Post
                  I wish I had a wide band, but just plug chops - yes Mikuni jets. When I bought the bike it had the current pods, a rusty V&H megaphone, stock needles raised up and 142.5 jets - I put in some '83 cams and the super sport exhaust. Supposedly it was dyno tuned by a shop in Markham, but who knows. It's always pulled great on the top end, but feels much better in the midrange now.
                  I would think that either the pods are worn thin and not filtering anything (have you ever oiled them? are they K&N?) or those FP needles are so much thicker than a DJ needle that you have to over size the main to compensate.

                  A MK142.5 is about DJ152 and that is much larger than a DJ138 (biggest in stage 3 3133 kit). A MK142 is what you should need with 4:1 Pods and 1166 BB kit!!!

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                    #24
                    Like I said earlier, K&N knockoffs - or maybe they are K&N's - the only difference I can see is they don't say k&n on the chrome cap. Btw, I know how to clean and oil pods. What do you want me to say? The bike pulls hard to redline.
                    -1980 GS1100 LT
                    -1975 Honda cb750K
                    -1972 Honda cl175
                    - Currently presiding over a 1970 T500

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by Tom R View Post
                      Like I said earlier, K&N knockoffs - or maybe they are K&N's - the only difference I can see is they don't say k&n on the chrome cap. Btw, I know how to clean and oil pods. What do you want me to say? The bike pulls hard to redline.
                      You don't have to get defensive, assuming you are reasonably well jetted it suggests the DJ and FP needles are completely different even to the point of changing the main.

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                        #26
                        You have a Factory Pro kit so follow the directions. I'd start with the 130 main jet and set the needle per instructions.
                        If you have a 50 pilot jet lose it for a 47.5.
                        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                          You have a Factory Pro kit so follow the directions. I'd start with the 130 main jet and set the needle per instructions.
                          If you have a 50 pilot jet lose it for a 47.5.
                          I hear that my stock 1100 should run mk155's when using a FU kit

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                            #28
                            thanks tom. i appriciate your input. im still waiting to recieve the next two sizes up on the main jets. when they get here ill post how it went.
                            should be here today

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by Gs1100e82 View Post
                              hey guys, own a 1982 gs1100ez and it has a vance and hines race 4 into 1 pipe, and i just bought k&n individual pods for it. i also just purchased a factory pro
                              3.0 kit for the carbs to be rejected. the kit came with 130 and 132.5 main jets
                              i put in the 132.5 jets and the bike is still getting flat between 7-9k. i set the float heights to 22.4mm. the low and midrange is in my eyes perfect. smooth and powerful. i had already also synchronized the carbs. i pulled a spark plug and it looks lean for sure. i called factory pro and they said i may need a bigger main jet size. so he is going to send me the next two sizes up for free. at least they seem to be taking care of me on that but from what i have read on here it seems everyone has been good with running around 125s in their bike. any ideas?



                              I just spoke to Rapid Ray about the FP needles v.s. DJ needles. He confirmed they were very different with the Dj main jet being the the MK122.5-MK127.5 (DJ132-DJ138)range and the FP main jet being MK130-MK132.5 range.

                              While I understand that there is overlap between needle and main jet, it is hard to imagine that there is that much overlap at WOT beyond red line which is where the main jet sizing is adjusted to. Without a WB02 you will never see that, and so it would be easy to based jetting on power pull in the 7000-9000 RPM area where you are still somewhat on the needle (apparently so).

                              Ray said that he thought the FP needles were easier to tune, that the needles were closer to stock taper than the DJ needles and that he usually went back to the stock #45 pilot using the FP needle whereas the DJ normally requires the bump to 47.5

                              Other than that he did not provide any more specifics. I'm still trying to get my head around, it and eve considering the FP needles for a rejet of my bike. The problem is I need a find a big big hill around here somewhere.

                              My jetting is a little off in the mid range since I moved from SB to Tucson.
                              Last edited by posplayr; 05-09-2014, 02:30 PM.

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                                #30
                                just got the new jets in. 135, 137.5. i put the 137.5 in first and ill run it probably monday when i can get a chance. hopefully this is going to remedy the issue. or even if i get it too rich id just back it to the 135's. ill repost on progress

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