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    #31
    Originally posted by posplayr View Post
    You don't have to get defensive, assuming you are reasonably well jetted it suggests the DJ and FP needles are completely different even to the point of changing the main.
    No worries, I was just throwing you a bit of what you gave to the OP - probably came off wrong. Interestingly enough, the needles from a rack of bs32 carbs I have are fairly close in size and taper to the FP - more so than the 1100 bs34 carbs. It's been a couple of years, but I did a check with a set of calipers and a fine tip sharpie and wrote down the results on the back of an envelope. Very scientific.
    If I enjoyed taking carbs on and off more, I would have tried to run them. Anyone know if this has been tried?
    -1980 GS1100 LT
    -1975 Honda cb750K
    -1972 Honda cl175
    - Currently presiding over a 1970 T500

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      #32
      Originally posted by Tom R View Post
      No worries, I was just throwing you a bit of what you gave to the OP - probably came off wrong. Interestingly enough, the needles from a rack of bs32 carbs I have are fairly close in size and taper to the FP - more so than the 1100 bs34 carbs. It's been a couple of years, but I did a check with a set of calipers and a fine tip sharpie and wrote down the results on the back of an envelope. Very scientific.
      If I enjoyed taking carbs on and off more, I would have tried to run them. Anyone know if this has been tried?
      I think it is scientific. All the main jet gas has to flow through the needle to emulsion tube gap so for the same bike the main jet size will be proportionately related to the tip thickness at full slide height. For example if the tip is. Thicker reducing the flow past the needle the main needs to be larger to get the same afr.

      I'm not assuming it is linear or can even be done by equivalent areas but it should be monotonically consistent to a first order.

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        #33
        Originally posted by posplayr View Post
        I think it is scientific. All the main jet gas has to flow through the needle to emulsion tube gap so for the same bike the main jet size will be proportionately related to the tip thickness at full slide height. For example if the tip is. Thicker reducing the flow past the needle the main needs to be larger to get the same afr.

        I'm not assuming it is linear or can even be done by equivalent areas but it should be monotonically consistent to a first order.
        I was kidding about my methods being very scientific - but, now I'd like to find that envelope again so I could post what I found. If I remember right, the tips were all the same diameters - or within a couple thousandths.
        At the time, it struck me that the 850 needles would make the bike run richer.
        -1980 GS1100 LT
        -1975 Honda cb750K
        -1972 Honda cl175
        - Currently presiding over a 1970 T500

        Comment


          #34
          Originally posted by Tom R View Post
          I was kidding about my methods being very scientific - but, now I'd like to find that envelope again so I could post what I found. If I remember right, the tips were all the same diameters - or within a couple thousandths.
          At the time, it struck me that the 850 needles would make the bike run richer.
          Not perfectly scientific

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            #35
            OK so last night i installed the 137.5's in the carbs and put the carbs back on the bike. syncronized the carbs again using my motionpro tool. i havent been able to get it out for a ride which will of course be the true test. BUT, i can tell you that the bike runs very well and as far as reving up, before with the 132.5's i had to sort of hold on the throttle for a second or 2 to get it to rev to 7000rpm. now will very little effort and a few blips it goes right up to 8-9k. i can only assume till i ride it is that im on the right track. possibly hit a home run this time

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              #36
              so yesterday i got to finally ride her after installing the 137.5s. it ran much much better. between 7 and 9k the bike was finally pulling a bit, but i am not convinced it is enough yet. i called factory pro and they are sending me the next two sizes up. i think one or two more up will do the trick.

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                #37
                Originally posted by Gs1100e82 View Post
                it ran much much better. between 7 and 9k the bike was finally pulling a bit, but i am not convinced it is enough yet.
                Between 7 and 9 it should pull your arms out of the sockets.
                http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                Life is too short to ride an L.

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                  Between 7 and 9 it should pull your arms out of the sockets.
                  hahaha im not there yet then. thanks!

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                    #39
                    GS1100e82, just for giggles try using the 47.5 pilot jets, setting your jet needle in the center position and running the 137.5 Mikuni main jets.

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                      #40
                      what exactly does the pilot jet do? i assumed that the one they gave me would have been the right one but now your the second or third person to say 47.5 is a good way to go.

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                        #41
                        Contrary to popular belief, it works from the idle circuit through about 2/3-3/4 throttle. It works to combine with the needle jet and most of the way through the main jets.

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                          #42
                          Originally posted by Gs1100e82 View Post
                          hey guys, own a 1982 gs1100ez and it has a vance and hines race 4 into 1 pipe, and i just bought k&n individual pods for it. i also just purchased a factory pro
                          3.0 kit for the carbs to be rejected. the kit came with 130 and 132.5 main jets
                          i put in the 132.5 jets and the bike is still getting flat between 7-9k. i set the float heights to 22.4mm. the low and midrange is in my eyes perfect. smooth and powerful. i had already also synchronized the carbs. i pulled a spark plug and it looks lean for sure. i called factory pro and they said i may need a bigger main jet size. so he is going to send me the next two sizes up for free. at least they seem to be taking care of me on that but from what i have read on here it seems everyone has been good with running around 125s in their bike. any ideas?
                          This really makes me wonder why in the world someone would buy a FP jet kit for a GS1100E?
                          • First off almost nobody uses them,
                          • Second the DJ kit is a known quantity and can be set very close just knowing a few parameters.
                          • Third I cant believe the range of mains you are having to use on a stock bike.
                          • Fourth, I cant believe that FP cant dial you in closer for a bone stock bike with pods/4:1



                          I suggest you just go buy a DJ kit and put in the DJ138/MK47.5/middle clip and call us in the morning. Be done with all of this. If that doesn't work you have something else wrong.

                          Here is another guy having jetting issues, followed the same advice and had it all sorted within a day for following the recommendations. How is your bike and different except you are using FP needles?




                          Your bike might run better with FP needles but how are you ever going to know if you cant get it to run right. The whole point of the jet kit is that someone already ran a WB02 on a dyno and jetted a specific configuration (within limits), how wide these limits are!!!
                          Last edited by posplayr; 05-21-2014, 02:46 PM.

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                            #43
                            I bought that jet kit because i was told by a local shop here that has built a few gs1100's and 1150's and they said that they usually are the better kit (run the best all around) and that dyno jet is good too but they like the factory pro kit. this is my first time doing anything with carbs and im learning as i go just as everyone has at some point or another. i will let everyone know when i get the bigger jets in how it feels. im getting closer to where it needs to be.

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                              #44
                              today was a good day. i got my new jets in the mail yesterday and installed them. i installed the 142.5 jets in. tested it out today and boom I've got great power up top. better then ever before. great midrange and idle as well. i have to say factory pro was very good to stand behind their product. they sent me the last four sizes up for free at 4.95 each thats not bad. i also looked at what came out of the carbs again. they were "118s" but on the "needle side" the needle did not go inside. the taper was right at the tip unlike the jets i got from factory pro where the needle goes inside the jet a tiny bit before the taper. also the 118 hole looks about as big as the 130 i got from factory pro. I'm gonna say whichever kit was in my carbs before was something funky for sure. anyone have any ideas?

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                                #45
                                [IMG][/IMG]
                                Last edited by Guest; 05-28-2014, 06:23 PM.

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