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Choke Issue
Is there any way to tighten the action of the choke? IE if I pull the choke on is there a way to keep it on so I don't have to hold the choke, hit the start button, and hold the clutch with my knee? I rebuilt the carbs awhile back and the bike runs beautifully (full sonic cleaning new orings etc) and the only issue I have had since is that the choke moves so freely it will not stay where I set it for the life of me. Thanks.Tags: None
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Try twisting black base thing (under knob) clockwise- might stick more. I finally just put some fine sawdust on cable and it stuck nicely. But I'd lose the clutch safety switch anyways- less switches the better!1981 gs650L
"We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin
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Originally posted by ShadowFocus603 View PostIs there any way to tighten the action of the choke? IE if I pull the choke on is there a way to keep it on so I don't have to hold the choke, hit the start button, and hold the clutch with my knee? .
The standard choke procedure for me, for years on end, was:
Left hand pulls in clutch. Right hand pulls up on choke. Right elbow hits start button. Worked for me.
You will find varied opinions on bypassing the clutch interlock. Mine is that it's a really bad idea, because it only takes one mistake to toss your bike onto the ground, perhaps with you under it. A rather rude way to start an outing. Leaving that interlock is like admitting that you're a fallible human.and God said, "Let there be air compressors!"
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2009 Suzuki DL650 V-Strom, 2004 HondaPotamus sigpic Git'cha O-ring Kits Here!
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If you have the center pull choke then you should be able to tighten the choke by doing this:
1: Pull the choke up
2: pull up the rubber boot until it comes off the ring underneath
3: turn the knurled band that was under the boot clockwise to tighten resistance
By turning the knurled band clockwise you're closing in the friction tabs at the top of the assembly. The bottom ring closest to the cable is to lock the assembly into the steering stem.
Here's a pic of the assembly to make it easier to understand:
With the top ring completely unscrewed you can see the slotted cone top that adds friction. As you tighten down the top ring it collapses the cone and adds friction:
If the above doesn't work then you need a new choke cable.Last edited by JTGS850GL; 05-17-2014, 04:32 PM.http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)
Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)
JTGS850GL aka Julius
GS Resource Greetings
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Probably be best to pick up a new cable.Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace
1981 GS550T - My First
1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike
Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"
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ShadowFocus603
Thanks for all the replies. I have a new clutch cable coming and the choke cable is new to me but off of a used bike so I'm sure a new one is in order but in the meantime I'll use some of the advice here and see if it helps at all.
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