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    Leaky intake boots

    Hey all! Ok, I've got a few issues on the bike I'm trying to work out. Money is SUPER tight so I'm trying to get creative until I can afford to do things properly. That being said, I need to replace the fuel rail O-rings on my '82 GS1100GK. No biggie. The problem is that I found that my intake boots (at least one anyway) has started separating from the plate it's over-molded onto.

    Does this plate has a small flange that I can tighten a hose clamp onto? Would using some Permatex PermaShield on the areas that are coming apart work? One guy used radiator hose over the old boots and it worked for him. Another guy used a bicycle inner-tube and RTV. Can I skip tracking down the the rubber O-rings used on the intake boots and use rubber sheet gasket material instead? Ideas?

    I'm just looking for the cheapest (not easiest) way to get my bike sorted out sooner rather than later.

    http://www.thejunkmanadv.com/cracked-rubber-intake-boot-fix.html

    #2
    No real quick and easy fix that I know of. The o-rings between the head and the intake boots, dry out, flatten, and are VERY brittle on these bikes. The intake O-rings are cheap, not worth trying to 1/2 a$$ IMHO.

    As for the boots, you can try some RTV but keep in mind, it should ONLY be used on the outside of the boot and over time (sooner not later) the fuel vapor will turn the crap to goo.

    You 'may' have a little luck with a tire patch kit. Again, only a temp 'fix'.

    Comment


      #3
      Try some of that dip stuff for tool handles. It might last long enough to get you by for a while until you can afford the new boots. Make sure there is no grease on them.
      http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

      Comment


        #4
        Hi,

        How many times do you want to fix the same problem? I always encourage the proper repair the first time. Then you won't have to worry about it for another 20 years or so. Perhaps the information below will help.

        If you are here you probably have a 30 year old motorcycle that needs about 20 years worth of maintenance. In the links below you'll find maintenance lists, documentation, wiring diagrams, "how to" guides, vendor links, tips, tricks, and a whole lot of GS goodness. This is your "mega-welcome". Let's get started.

        Let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'.

        I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

        If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

        Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...



        Please Click Here For Your Mega-Welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

        More links to helpful threads in the forum:
        Help! Your Bike Won't Start
        DON'T DO THESE THINGS
        Help! Your Bike Won't Run Well
        Oh God! Pods!



        Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

        Thank you for your indulgence,

        BassCliff

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Dave8338 View Post
          No real quick and easy fix that I know of. The o-rings between the head and the intake boots, dry out, flatten, and are VERY brittle on these bikes. The intake O-rings are cheap, not worth trying to 1/2 a$$ IMHO.

          As for the boots, you can try some RTV but keep in mind, it should ONLY be used on the outside of the boot and over time (sooner not later) the fuel vapor will turn the crap to goo.

          You 'may' have a little luck with a tire patch kit. Again, only a temp 'fix'.
          Thanks Dave! I haven't found those O-rings anywhere local in the correct material (Viton) or size. I can find rubber gasket material at any auto parts store and it would be cheaper. But, would it work very well? I just don't want vac leaks. What thickness of gasket would you shoot for?

          As for sealants, I would use a high temp/fuel resistant sealant, but yes...I would only apply on the outside. Does that metal plate the boot is molded on have a lip that sticks out into the boot? Something to get a hose clamp onto to tighten the boot down some?

          Comment


            #6
            http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

            Comment


              #7
              Ok, I'm going to use either a liquid gasket material for any cracks in the boots (Permatex Ultra Black or Motoseal, Threebond, Seal-All....suggestions?) and skip the O-rings for the boot mounting surface, instead opting to use a gasket which should give a larger sealing surface. What gasket material would you use in this situation? I was thinking about a rubber/fiber gasket sheet or a paper gasket. Ideas?....other than "replace the boots and use correct o-rings". I've got everything other than the gasket material.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Jory View Post
                Ok, I'm going to... skip the O-rings for the boot mounting surface, instead opting to use a gasket which should give a larger sealing surface. What gasket material would you use in this situation?
                I'd use the proper viton o-rings... You are trying to reinvent the wheel...
                Cogito ergo sum - "I think, therefore I am"
                René Descartes

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by philosopheriam View Post
                  I'd use the proper viton o-rings... You are trying to reinvent the wheel...
                  Hahahaha.....constantly!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    If money is that tight why are you even thinking about restoring a thirty year old motorcycle?

                    I can think of cheaper ways to get killed.
                    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                    Life is too short to ride an L.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
                      If money is that tight why are you even thinking about restoring a thirty year old motorcycle?

                      I can think of cheaper ways to get killed.
                      That's the funny thing about money...it's not always tight. Not everyone can afford a new car or a new bike and I'm one of those people. I can only afford old, used stuff usually. I can't afford to buy anything else right now and I can't afford to drive my wife's Tahoe (old and used too) to/from work. Towards the end of the year, I should be better off but just need to patch things up in the meantime. Not looking to catch a hard time, so let's go with the question I posed instead of trying to beat me up for what I'm not doing.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        You're aware that a set of intake O-rings from Robert Barr will cost you about $6 delivered?
                        1980 GS550ET

                        Comment


                          #13
                          There is no way to seal broken boots. The engine will draw false air and run lean, and hot. Not good. I'd fix the bike properly or park (or sell) it.
                          Ed

                          To measure is to know.

                          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Jory View Post
                            Hahahaha.....constantly!
                            A set of stainless cap screws and orings will be just over $10 with shipping.

                            I applaud creativity - when it's necessary...
                            Cogito ergo sum - "I think, therefore I am"
                            René Descartes

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Well, worked on the bike over the weekend to inspect/repair the boots and O-rings. Pulled everything off to get to the boots and of course had a couple bolt heads break off so it took some grinding/drilling/tapping to get good threads again for the new cap-screws I picked up.

                              Boots actually looked pretty good, no cracks going thru...nothing bad was noticed, but I went ahead and ran a thin bead of Permatex MotoSeal around the outside of where the boot mounts to the plate it's over-molded onto. Instead of using replacement O-rings, I picked up some Fel-Pro 3187 gasket material which I cut into templates from the boot mounting plates. The way I see it, it's a larger sealing surface than crushing an o-ring. Suzuki might have used O-rings instead of gaskets as a cost savings when making these things, but it doesn't always mean there's not a better way to do things. Working in an engineering department, we deal with the same type of cost/benefit restrictions.

                              Anyway, cut all gaskets, re-mounted boots/carbs/etc. and fired her up. I had to adjust the idle speed some but once she warmed up, it was a nice improvement. I sprayed carb cleaner around the boots/intake and there was no change in idle so looks like the rubber gasket material worked great.

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