1978 gs 1000 e carb issue

[Guest]

Ok finaly got the gs1000 e out of the livingroom ..
Put the tank back on and it fired right up and sounded great .. but as I was looking around the valve cover to confirm the crack was fixed and not leaking and the new valve cover wasn't leaking .I begin to smell gas !!
I look down and the 4 hoses that come out of the bottom of well gas is just poring out of the hose for carb #2 !!!

Anyone know what might be the problem ?

[tkent02]

Floats are stuck, whack 'em on the float bowl with a screwdriver handle or something.

[chuck hahn]

Float stuck open..over flowing. Tap on it with a socket ratchet and get it unstuck.

[lrgguy]

Floats are stuck, whack 'em on the float bowl with a screwdriver handle or something.

Ill give that a shot ... thx

[chuck hahn]

This is what happens when the fuel has all evaporated or been drained from the bowls and the floats drop.

Also note that there is a little tab on the metal part of the floats that hits the post when the float goes down. This tab is supposed to prevent the float from falling too far and allowing the float needle to get wedged and stuck. I always check this function when i rebuild a set of carbs. I check that the float needles drops a good distance but yet not so far that it goes past the critical pivoting point and jams itself up.

[lrgguy]

This is what happens when the fuel has all evaporated or been drained from the bowls and the floats drop.

Also note that there is a little tab on the metal part of the floats that hits the post when the float goes down. This tab is supposed to prevent the float from falling too far and allowing the float needle to get wedged and stuck. I always check this function when i rebuild a set of carbs. I check that the float needles drops a good distance but yet not so far that it goes past the critical pivoting point and jams itself up.

This must be the case !! Because a little over a month ago when I bought the bike . I did take it out for a few spins and I didnt leak gas from the bottom of the bowl then ...
But when I brought the bike in the house I removed the tank and drained the bowls , just so the house didnt stink of gas , while I fixed a cracked valve cover and adjusted valves ..

[chuck hahn]

I should have been more specific and added this to the end of the sentence...floats drop too far because the stops arent set properly to avoid the float needles from getting jammed.

On drained bowls, such as for long term storage situations, when you refill the bowls the floats shouldnt jam up with the float needles.

[lrgguy]

Ok that issue is fixed !! You guys are awsome !! A little taptap with the screw driver and it stopped ...
Okso spent the last hr driving around the neiberhood on it , not such a good idea when I live one block away from avery large police station ..
And heres my next issue best way to describe it is ,
In every gear around 5000 rpm the bike starts to studder ...doesnt seam like a gas issue or jets and the hole bike kinda studders but if you pop itintothenext gear your ok until again 5000 rpm ..firatand secondgear is the worst ????

[chuck hahn]

Have you put gauges on it and vacuum synced the carbs yet? Are the valves newly adjusted? Have yiou checked the timing? Where are the bottom pilot screws set at and where are the side mixture screws at. Baseline to start on a 1000 is 7/8 out on the bottom and 2 out on the sides. Then you do all fine tuning from the side mixture screws AFTER all the maintenance and vacuum syncing has been done.

[lrgguy]

Have you put gauges on it and vacuum synced the carbs yet? Are the valves newly adjusted? Have yiou checked the timing? Where are the bottom pilot screws set at and where are the side mixture screws at. Baseline to start on a 1000 is 7/8 out on the bottom and 2 out on the sides. Then you do all fine tuning from the side mixture screws AFTER all the maintenance and vacuum syncing has been done.

Yeah I did all that 15 min after I purchased it 1 month ago using my magic wand ... lmao I wish !!!
Picked bike up a little over one month ago , one owner on the bike !! 32 000 km on it ..
Owner sais he re built carbs , but i dont believe anyone so do plan on taking carbs out myself in the near future !!
When I brought the bike home I did take it ot for a few runs , and thats when I noticed oil dripping from the front right side of engine , what appeared to be leaking from 2 locations . 1 the valve cover 2 cylinder head .. after looking moreclosely I noticed the previous owner had some jb weld on the valve cover . And the crack he repaired ran a little . Which was causing oil to run down cylinder head and drip out from the drain holes . Leaking out from the front of the engine . Right where the head gasket is ...
BIKE RAN FINE AT THIS POINT OTHER THEN LEAKING OIL !!!
so I removed tank , seat then valve cover and yes adjusted all valve shims !!
The crack on the valve cover I drilled the end of the crack with a 1/6 drill bit . Then grooved the crack out on both sides and filled with jb weld ..
This is when I noticed my D cam holder mount . 2f the four bolts were raised a bit and would turn by hand ... yeah they were broken off in the cylinder head !!
I removed the two broken bolts and removed the 3 rd bolt and while teying to back out the last bolt it too broke off in the head !! I then taped the entire cylinder gead to prevent shavings from entering into the head . And drilled out 2 of the broken bolts and was successfull removing them with an ez out .. the 3 rd NOT SO SUCCESSFUL !!
so paid some machine guy in the neiber hood to come to the house and drill out the broken ez out tip out of the last hole and put in heli coils ...
I then fastened the cam back down , re checked all shims and again all numbers were with in spec ..
Timing too was checked ..
Re installed valve cover , new gasket .new plugs . Then fired the bike up and it started right away , idles great ...
So this is where I am at now !!
Was out riding it around last night till almost midnight and what im noticing is in firat gear around 4000 rpms the bike studderes ... so you pop it into 2 nd gear , then at about 4500-5000 rpm again the bike studders so ill bring the revs up to about 7000 & shift into 3 rd .. in 3 rd gear again the bike studders but around 6000-7000 rpm & in 4 th gear it doesnt happen until your up around 7500 -8000 rpm , by this time your clipping along pretty damn good in a 60 zone and its time to slow down ...
This didnt seam to happen when I rode the bike after bringing it home ...
So this is where im at now !!
Oh as for that crackked valve cover ... no leaking oil from anywere as of yet !
So yeah if anyone can suggest a few ideas for things to try id appreciate it !!!

[lrgguy]

The carbs on this bike are much different then whats on my gs650 gl ..I have done a little reading up on them and downloaded rebuild from bikecliff site .. do plan on getting in there in time !! But my 650 is really crapping out on my motor is knockin etc , so I realy need this bike running

[tkent02]

Yes the carburetors are completely different on the pre 1980 bikes.

Congrats on fixing the oil leak, if I read this correctly you haven't synched the carbs since you changed some valve shims, or maybe not at all? It needs to be done after changing shims, the valve clearance has an effect on synchronization, but that's probably not the cause of the stuttering. HAve you done anything with the ignition, sill running points? Are they set correctly and in good shape? And is he intake and exhaust system completely stock or has it been altered? Odd that it would have run fine before and not now, but odd things happen at times hen bikes don't run for a while..

[lrgguy]

Yes the carburetors are completely different on the pre 1980 bikes.

Congrats on fixing the oil leak, if I read this correctly you haven't synched the carbs since you changed some valve shims, or maybe not at all? It needs to be done after changing shims, the valve clearance has an effect on synchronization, but that's probably not the cause of the stuttering. HAve you done anything with the ignition, sill running points? Are they set correctly and in good shape? And is he intake and exhaust system completely stock or has it been altered? Odd that it would have run fine before and not now, but odd things happen at times hen bikes don't run for a while..

No your right I have not synchronized the carbs yet .. and plan on getting to that!!
But I think you hit the nail on the head !! Points .. thats what I am going to check tonite when I get home !!
Bike has original exhaust and airbox ...
And when i had the side cover off to manually turn thebike over . I briefly looked at points .. appeared to be clean . But like I said ill look into that more tonite .when the spring broke on my 650 advancer ithad similar symptoms to what this bike does when its stutters .
I honestly dont feel or believe it is a carb issue . Butagree yeah they have to be pulled dippedand cleaned then synced . Unfort theres only so many hrs in aday and youcan only do one thing at a time !!

[ohiocaferacer]

In regards to your studder....if its a carb issue. Usually its best to notice the throttle position(ie....1/4, 1/2, full...etc) rather than the rpm's where the issue occurs. This will usually give you some indication as to which area of the carb needs adjusted.

Good luck on getting it running smoothly.....you'll enjoy it!

[lrgguy]

I also noticed the exhaust pipes right at the weld on both sides have two very small pin hole leaks .. going to just put some muffler goop on them for the time being ...
And as for the air box cover I fabricated , looking at it and what the original should look like ... I dont see a differance! !
List continues
Still need to
Clean carbs
Replace tires
Replace forkseals not cuzz there leaking , just cuzz I do them on every bike I purchase !!