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Buying Carb Sync gauges... is this the best deal around?

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    #31
    Originally posted by 2BRacing View Post
    You need to adjust the linkage screws when you synch the carbs. Be sure to follow the correct order as described in the manual.

    As a bonus, when you tweak the idle mixture using the highest idle method, you will also be able to observe the optimum point as the highest reading on the gauges.
    Havent worked out the linkage set up yet. Ive tuned carbs years ago but mostly cars. I have a Haynes manual but it doesn't show my carbs I think mine are VM28ss? they have the long rectangular tops.

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      #32
      Originally posted by Devon bloke View Post
      Havent worked out the linkage set up yet. Ive tuned carbs years ago but mostly cars. I have a Haynes manual but it doesn't show my carbs I think mine are VM28ss? they have the long rectangular tops.
      You should have the 28s. Same as the VM26SS carbs - just a bit bigger

      Take off the carb tops and you'll see the screws with the locking nuts that you adjust (probably still got a dab of yellow paint on them from the factory). You don't need to adjust them much - fine tweaks only.
      79 GS1000S
      79 GS1000S (another one)
      80 GSX750
      80 GS550
      80 CB650 cafe racer
      75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
      75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

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        #33
        I've got a carbtune now and are tempted to start having a go at a carb balance. Ive read more since then and thing its best to do things properly. First job I think is to get the tank cleaned out properly, either myself or at a tank refurb specialist. At £150 though gotta give it some thought. Then a new fuel tap, although mine is serviceable I think it only works on vacuum on reserve. Prime works ok but worried about starvation and running lean. New fuel lines then, although its a daunting prospect, ill have the carbs apart for new bits and a clean. I have no bath so will just clean all parts by hand. At the same time ill check all the valve clearances (yet another tool to buy). Will then check the clutch hub nut and plates then the dreaded starter clutch and see what left of it The engine itself looks brand new and has new gaskets. Then I can ride it Oh got fork seals to do, check why speedo don't work (got new cable, hope its this and not the head) Check the calipers and pads, although these have been rebuilt with all new bits, Ill check anyway. Think that's it for now

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          #34
          Originally posted by Nessism View Post
          You can do that, but the needles will bounce all over the place. Those metal tube Carbtune gauges are vastly superior.
          Then, you turn the dampers down and the needles cease to bounce.
          The dampers in the lines are nothing more than aquarium air-hose flow-adjust fittings, dead cheap. I have a set I bought thirty years ago and was amused to see what had been used. Still, they worked perfectly fine. The rubber tubing supplied is now pretty cracked though, so it would be as well for anyone who picks up a set of used ones to throw the old tubes away and replace with some decent modern silicone rubbber.

          Originally posted by Steve View Post
          Because you will STILL have the problem of matching them to each other whenever you use them.
          Decent gauges have a zero-ing screw to match them and stay matched. Check it occasionally, but mine never drifted out once zeroed in.
          Last edited by Grimly; 06-07-2014, 03:51 PM.
          ---- Dave

          Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

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