Stalling when hot

[JTGS850GL]

The only "diameter" that is of any consequence is the surface area of the needle valve itself. That determines the amount of surface area that the valve represents. A moot point since that's a constant. Increasing the inlet diameter would have no effect on the float's ability to shut off fluid flow as it would have no impact on pressure at the valve.

Didn't mean for this to turn into a long detailed discussion of fluid dynamics. Simply pointing out that any increase in the size of fuel lines or the relative length of the fuel line would have no impact on final pressure at the float valve. It's the height of the fluid column relative to the float valve that determines pressure at the valve.

[Gorminrider]

The only "diameter" that is of any consequence is the surface area of the needle valve itself.

isn't that what I said in the first place?

The pressure on your carb float needles= the column height and the diameter of this "column" =the fuel inlet of the carbs. No more no less, whatever the bends and turns of your fuel line, (within reason!)versus the float's buoyancy and leverage, that is.

Didn't mean for this to turn into a long detailed discussion of fluid dynamics

.
I see this as gravity.
as in;Consider the carb float to be a boat. put an upright column of liquid in it. The boat floats. Increase the column's diameter. The boat sinks.
And yet, we can agree that "PSI" remains the same at the bottom of each column.

So I thought area is important to mention. I suppose I'll have to be more specific next time it occurs to me to mention it and say, float needle orifice or something.

[gustovh]

Read all of this, if it is not a vacuum lock in the tank caused by a clogged cap, then my money is on a heat short in the starting circuit. My Rebel did exactly what is described to be the problem here and it turned out to be a plug in the hot lead to the coils. When cold there was good contact and after being run to working temp, the contact was barely enough to keep everything happy until I came to a stop and would die.

I finally got tired of the bs and went through everything in the circuits that was required to run. The culprit was under the gas tank and hard to find even with a shop manual.

V

[BigD_83]

Going back to your old post in February:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=218694

it seems like this is not really a "new" issue.


This stands out to me:

Carbs have been gone through recently. Though the gas isn't "fresh". I went out today and at ~27* it caught and idled. Only difference is that it was on the tender last night. I always forget that bikes hate voltage drops much more than cars. Once running, its great though. Are these siamese carbs hard to rebuild? I have a spare set sitting on my work bench.

Still thinking it has good odds to be an electrical problem...have you had a chance to start in on your electrical checks?