3 years and still no love...

[BigD_83]

Plymouth, Minnesota

In the upper left hand corner you'll see your User CP (Control panel)

In there you can post your location and create a signature so you don't have to remember to tell everyone where you are, and on what model you are working. Of course, if you get bitten by the GS bug and end up with multiple bikes, you'll still have to mention it in the title and/or Tag.

[lwitter]

In the upper left hand corner you'll see your User CP (Control panel)

In there you can post your location and create a signature so you don't have to remember to tell everyone where you are, and on what model you are working. Of course, if you get bitten by the GS bug and end up with multiple bikes, you'll still have to mention it in the title and/or Tag.

Good point. Here's the current list.

[AirCooled]

Airflow for Engines

The element is stock. I am going to try it with the airbox on and 2.5 turns on the air screws after I recheck the timing this weekend. Battery is on the charger.

The engine will not run without the Airbox, TOO LEAN. I'm sure it will start & run on Choke, touch the throttle and it will die. I've learned the hard way! These engines HATE air. The choke....... well, doesn't. It ADDS fuel. The "AIR" needles lean when closed, richen when open. 2.5 turns OPEN is where you start. Stock jets and pods, no good. Gaff Taped off 95% of pods to make it run. 81 GS850GL. Waiting for a stock Airbox to make it RIGHT!
Check battery VOLTAGE. Under 10 Volts, will not induce enough VOLTAGE in the coils to make the LEAP across your plug gap.
I'm a NEW GS'er, but I'm not NEW. Ignition coils are transformers for VOLTAGE, not AMPERAGE.
If you've ever broken a fluorescent tube(WHO HASN'T?!?!), there are NO wires, hence the Ballast, which Induces High Voltage to LEAP to the other side! Which Excites the gas inside the tube to Glow......
If Cam Timing or Ignition timing are off, well.............. Cams are for proper flow of AIR, The engine will RUN on 2 cylinders, easily......... so Ignition timing is not as Critical.

My 1/2 cents worth.

Scott

[lwitter]

update

I pulled the carbs and checked the float heights. They were off a bit so adjusted each to spec, but likely that was not a problem. I put the airscrews at 2.5 out and put the airbox back on with the stock element. checked the advance on the dynatech trigger and set to 35 degrees. Tried it and it was making a bit of noise like it wanted to start. I decided to recheck the compression since it was a couple years ago that I checked it. I was way off on my memory. Compression was actually 56, 85, 90, 80. All below the recommended level for overhaul (100 psi) per the manual. Damn! Well, it will make a darn good parts bike anyway. Just out of curiosity, would a bike be able to run with this level of compression if the fuel, air, timing etc was all working?

[AirCooled]

I pulled the carbs and checked the float heights. They were off a bit so adjusted each to spec, but likely that was not a problem. I put the airscrews at 2.5 out and put the airbox back on with the stock element. checked the advance on the dynatech trigger and set to 35 degrees. Tried it and it was making a bit of noise like it wanted to start. I decided to recheck the compression since it was a couple years ago that I checked it. I was way off on my memory. Compression was actually 56, 85, 90, 80. All below the recommended level for overhaul (100 psi) per the manual. Damn! Well, it will make a darn good parts bike anyway. Just out of curiosity, would a bike be able to run with this level of compression if the fuel, air, timing etc was all working?

The engine will "RUN" at those compression levels, will it pull a "Load"? It's 600lbs plus + of bike, plus YOU, which COULD be a Plus + as well!
Compression...... it's tricky. I believe I read You pulled the "Jugs"? Those would be cylinders. As an EX Diesel Mechanic, Service Manager, Warranty Manager, AND the Head of Failure Analysis, for AirCooled Diesels, no less,
I'm confident in what I have to say.
A gasoline engine, ie: Spark Ignited, compression is LESS of an issue than air/fuel mixtures and cam/ignition timing. An old Chevy 327 with HOLES burned through the tops of the pistons will "RUN" if everything else is right. Will it TAKE YOU anywhere"? No. And it's also a GREAT Mosquito Fogger! A FACT I have personal experience with!
WHERE is the compressed "AIR" going? Pull your oil filler cap, check for a breeze............
By the way, if you DID tear that engine down to the crankcase, if your cam timing is off, you'll never achieve compression. Does it push AIR out of the carb intakes? You'd have to hold the throttle wide open when you're cranking to know.........
If valves are open at TDC on compression stroke, no compression, period. The BEST compression test is a cylinder "leakdown" test, not a screw in gauge. It's the ONLY way a Diesel Tech checks compression........
My 850 has a blown head gasket, and I KNOW the valve lash needs to be set......... I have a cylinder down to 80psi with a gauge, the others are around 115, so it runs rough, it STILL scares me at WOT! The Power Band on this bike is at the higher RPMs, between 3500 to 8500........ No place to ride like that in the Tampa area......... I'm not physically ready for this bike.......... 6 months ago I was facing Amputation of my right foot. It's healing, very slowly.............
I hit the speed limit on the street 45mph in 1st to 2nd gear....... shift to third to cruise, occasionally it'll see 4th..........

Just my personal thoughts and opinions..........

Scott

[lwitter]

Thanks for all the info, AirCooled. It will take me a while to digest it all. Best of luck on the continued recovery.

[lwitter]

Update

Thanks for all the great info. The cylinder block and head are at a local cycle machine shop for a bore/hone and valve job. Found a set of .50 oversize suzuki NOS pistons and rings for $275 on ebay for the rebuild. I'm hopeful this will be the ticket to get the beast running!