Bike idles and runs great, but has issues with starting.

[larson7]

Update:

The floats were at 20 mm +/- 1mm, so they were low. I adjusted them all to 22.4 mm +/- .1 mm and sprayed out my air, pilot, and main jets. I installed my carbs.

The bike will still not start, i replaced the spark plugs from the original ones that were in the bike when purchased. This seemed to help a little, it sounds like it's just about to turn over with sputter every crank, but it doesn't start.

Any suggestions?

[Nessism]

You might want to check the Newbie mistakes thread linked in my signature to see if anything rings a bell.

[larson7]

Second update:

The bike starts! Runs awesome, only when i have it hooked up to the charger will it start. It seems like i can let it idle for as long as i want, but when i drive it and stop at a stop sign in first with the clutch in, it will die.

Would this be a stator issue?

[posplayr]

Second update:

The bike starts! Runs awesome, only when i have it hooked up to the charger will it start. It seems like i can let it idle for as long as i want, but when i drive it and stop at a stop sign in first with the clutch in, it will die.

Would this be a stator issue?

Do you keep the charger connected while you ride?



If not it could be electrical.

[larson7]

No, I hook the charger up to start it, for whatever reason it can idle just fine and take off. After I start moving there seems to be no problems, it's only when I stop at a stop sign in first that it dies. I cannot re-start it until i hook it back up to the charging box.

[Steve]

Just a chime in on that style of petcock, I have a 1980 GS750E and was wondering if that was a standard for that year, its a vacume operated verses gravity design, what do you guys think of these verses the gravity design, any reliability issues?. At least you don't have to remember to turn the valve off. :-)

Believe it or not, what you have is a "gravity design" petcock.

Yes, there is also vacuum involved, but once vacuum is applied to open the tap, it is gravity that makes the fuel flow.

The floats were at 20 mm +/- 1mm, so they were low. I adjusted them all to 22.4 mm +/- .1 mm ...

Actually, the floats were HIGH.

Remember, you are measuring the distance from the bottom of the float (it is on top when you have the carb upside down) to the bottom edge of the carb body. When you turn the carb right-side-up, that lower number will be seen as a float that is riding higher than it should be. That will make every circuit in the carb run richer than it should.

No, I hook the charger up to start it, for whatever reason it can idle just fine and take off. After I start moving there seems to be no problems, it's only when I stop at a stop sign in first that it dies. I cannot re-start it until i hook it back up to the charging box.

May I suggest using a volt meter to check the battery voltage before starting the bike and again after starting it? Then check it again with the engine in the 4-5,000 rpm range. It appears that the bike is not charging the battery. If it is not, you have yet another adventure, tracking down which component needs attention. Posplayr has posted in this thread. Look in his signature, you will see a link for a Quick Test of the charging system. Follow that, do not skip any steps.

.

[growler]

exactly. i did mine with a small ruler. worked fine.

Calipers, a ruler, a piece of cardboard, book of matches, it's not critical what you use to measure it, it is critical that you use something.