exhaust header insulation wrap - 1" vs 2", length needed?

[Chuck78]

I am looking to wrap a v&h header I am putting on my bike in order to help keep the new 10:1 920cc engine cool, and was looking at my options for ordering the wrap.

It comes typically in 25' or 50' rolls, and in either 1" or 2" wide versions. Is the 2" too wide to neatly wrap around the bends in the pipe, or does this stuff stretch well? How much length is needed typically (relevant to width of wrap used)?

I also am doing this to clean up the looks of the pipe with not the best chrome (muffler looks like new though), and am cleaning the rust speckles off and painting with POR-20 high temp exhaust paint before I put the wrap on, to keep any rusting at a minimum.

There are also silicone(?) sprays that I see for this wrap, is that a spray that dries on and helps keep moisture out?

[Chuck78]

I also saw a thicker 1/8" wrap all over ebay, vs 1/16" that seems common. 1/8" is probably overkill for a bike, right?

Also looking at adding an oil cooler depending on feedback on my engine buildup from members here. Needed?

[OldVet66]

Unless wrap is most important to you, I would paint it. The wrap will make it rust faster. VHT flat black ceramic exhaust paint is not a permanent answer, but I keep my old ratty V&H 4-1 looking acceptably nice looking with it. I have to paint it once or twice a year depending on how much I ride in the rain. Before I painted it I was considering consigning it to the trash bin, that's how bad it was.

[Chuck78]

POR-20 silver hi-temp exhaust paint is pretty tough stuff, & I think would be good for many years at least on the rust speckles, probably no better than vht hi-temp on the chrome. I am more looking to reduce engine temps, as I am building up a very nice engine with hi-perf head work done, and long out of production 72mm MTC Engineering 10:1 920cc pistons for the GS750/850 w/850 cylinders bored to the max. I want to make sure it stays cool enough, as I can't get replacement pistons anymore, rings are custom order at this point, & the head is done very nicely...plus the higher compression with thinner sleeves will run hotter.

[OldVet66]

I don't know that the wrap will do that much for you. It is more for engine compartment cooling than anything else. I had a '85 MK II Supra that I put a Thorley Try-Y ceramic coated header on and the temperature difference from the stock cast header was night and day in the engine bay. Your headers are in free air. You would probably do better cooling it with a oil cooler and a SH-775 R/R (provides some stator cooling between charging cycles relating to slightly cooler oil).

[GateKeeper]

my Yosh pipe wrapped

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1690163&postcount=1199

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1691732&postcount=1208

.

[Chuck78]

Already got the sh-775, MANDATORY for charging system health upgrade, MANDATORY for big four cylinder engine temps... Still leaning towards wrap for a little extra cool air to cool the engine, but I will see how well I can get the V&H chrome to clean up & let that sway my decision.

The annual VHT 1200°F black exhaust paint has kept my MAC header looking pretty nice. The V&H chrome doesn't seem to be the best quality. Can't afford a $500 imported from England/Italy Marving flat collector 4-1 road pipe yet... Very awesome & extra ground clearance, & only other 8 valve 750/850 4-1 I could find that was still in production other than mac & v&h. Very nice, unique flat 4 pipe wide collector for clearance under the bike, & upswept yoshi style skinny tailpipe. Dyno numbers are up there with the old supertrap pipes slso, best midrange without sacrificing high end.

[JTGS850GL]

You may also consider getting it high temp ceramic coated. Makes it look good for a long time but also keeps the external exhaust temps down.

[Chuck78]

my Yosh pipe wrapped

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1690163&postcount=1199

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1691732&postcount=1208

.

Wow man, I pulled some wicked dents like that out of my MAC, but it eventually took cutting & bending/prying & rewelding, then flap disc on the grinder to smooth the beads out.

On this v&h road pipe, I have one peculiar small dent that I could not pry out from the inside with the dented area cherry red hot from my air/acetylene brazing torch, have to drill a hole opposite it & use a rounded off metal dowell & hammer it out. Little round dent 3/16" deep or maybe 1/4", the size of a pencil eraser! Strange.