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Cleaned Carbs and now have fast idle

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    #1

    Cleaned Carbs and now have fast idle

    When I first got the bike it wouldn't run without the choke on. I pulled the carbs and cleaned them up and got them back in. The first thing I noticed is that it wouldn't start right away. I would start it and it would sound like it was trying to start but would just die out. Then all it would do is crank unless I let is sit for several hours. After trying that about 4 or 5 times it finally started and ran without the choke but it is idling at 4k.

    I shut it down and backed out the idle adjustment screw completely (counterclockwise right?) but it didn't do anything. The intake boots were replaced within the last two months by the previous owner but tonight I will try checking the screws to make sure they are tight and spray WD-40 around them to check for o-ring leaks. I looked at the throttle cable this morning before I left for work and it doesn't look like that is the issue but I will verify again tonight. Also, the choke is not stuck either.

    Two things:

    - After I assembled the carbs I drilled out the pilot screw plugs, tightened them and then backed them out 2.5 turns. I don't see this being a problem but maybe is is?

    - The air box boots have shrunk and do not fit well over carbs 2 and 3 so there is definitely some freer flowing air going into at least those two carbs. I just ordered a replacement box today off eBay.

    Has anyone had experience with this or know what might be causing it? Any advice would be appreciated
    Tags: None
    #2
    Assuming you did a 24 hour carb dip cleaning, I would be leaning towards the two boots that do not fit correctly causing a vacuum leak.

    Comment

      #3
      Originally posted by huntb View Post

      - After I assembled the carbs I drilled out the pilot screw plugs, tightened them and then backed them out 2.5 turns. I don't see this being a problem but maybe is is?
      Did you do a complete dip BEFORE you drilled out the plugs? If so you didn't do a proper rebuild. With that said it seems like you still have an air leak.
      Last edited by JTGS850GL; 06-23-2014, 10:27 AM.
      http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
      1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
      1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
      1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

      Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

      JTGS850GL aka Julius

      GS Resource Greetings

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        #4
        - The air box boots have shrunk and do not fit well over carbs 2 and 3 so there is definitely some freer flowing air going into at least those two carbs. I just ordered a replacement box today off eBay.
        This is probably it.

        Also, you shouldn't need another air box, what you need are new airbox boots.
        Charles
        --
        1979 Suzuki GS850G

        Read BassCliff's GSR Greeting and Mega-Welcome!

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by eil View Post
          This is probably it.

          Also, you shouldn't need another air box, what you need are new airbox boots.
          I can't find just the boots so I got a replacement box. I am talking about the boots on the airbox side of the carbs, not the engine side. Those boots are brand new. I'm confused on why a leak on the airbox side would make the engine idle at 4k because the butterflies are closed. This would tell me there is an air leak past the butterflies right?

          Comment

            #6
            The hard starting stuff means your "choke" circuit passages aren't clean. Did you poke/blow out small hole near bottom of each fuel bowl ? Also the feed tubes that run up into carb throats ? When you benched sync carbs , the throttle plates would appear almost totally closed. A small leak on boots (engine side) would cause high idle. The air box boots to carbs would not cause this, but would cause poor running as revs go up past 3000 or so.
            1981 gs650L

            "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by huntb View Post
              - After I assembled the carbs I drilled out the pilot screw plugs, tightened them and then backed them out 2.5 turns. I don't see this being a problem but maybe is is?
              How tight?

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by tom203 View Post
                The hard starting stuff means your "choke" circuit passages aren't clean. Did you poke/blow out small hole near bottom of each fuel bowl ? Also the feed tubes that run up into carb throats ? When you benched sync carbs , the throttle plates would appear almost totally closed. A small leak on boots (engine side) would cause high idle. The air box boots to carbs would not cause this, but would cause poor running as revs go up past 3000 or so.
                Yes I completely blew out and sprayed carb cleaner through the choke circuit in the bowl and when I bench synced the throttle plates were almoat closed (maybe enough to fit a small paperclip through). I tightened the Allen head bolts on the intake boots because the PO left them kind of loose when he replaced them. Then I completely backed out the idle adjust screw and the problem still didn't go away. There must be an air leak after the throttle plates right?

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by JMHJ View Post
                  How tight?
                  Good question. I checked this last night and it looked like I didn't have them all the way tight and they were maybe 3-3.5 turns out. I tightened them all the way out and loosened them 2 turns and the issue was still there. I know I'm close but I can't figure out what else could cause this.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by huntb View Post
                    Good question. I checked this last night and it looked like I didn't have them all the way tight and they were maybe 3-3.5 turns out. I tightened them all the way out and loosened them 2 turns and the issue was still there. I know I'm close but I can't figure out what else could cause this.
                    What I was getting at was if those are the screws with the fine needle tip, you're only supposed to lightly seat them, not "tighten" them.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Originally posted by JMHJ View Post
                      What I was getting at was if those are the screws with the fine needle tip, you're only supposed to lightly seat them, not "tighten" them.
                      Oh, yeah I understand. I did not tighten them like a screw

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