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Exhaust header leak,looking for fix tips...

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    Exhaust header leak,looking for fix tips...

    Hi,
    One or more of my pipes are leaking a small amount of exhaust on the head. Can these be torqued down(assuming they still move) or would putting in new gaskets be the best fix...? Any tips on removing these bolts? Not sure how long they have been on, probably 10+ years.

    Thank you,
    Andy

    #2
    All you can do is cross your fingers, hit them repeatedly with penetrant before you do anything, give them a heat cycle or two, more penetrant and try to get some movement on them, in or out.
    Assuming you get them loose, you can try to tighten the leaky ones up, as it doesn't take much to cause a blow-by but be careful of over-stressing them. Once the exhaust starts to leak, it's only a matter of time before you have to replace the gasket rings anyway. If you manage to get them all loose, you'd be as well to take the system off and replace all the bolts with stainless studs (and brass nuts, if available) to avoid this common weak spot in the future.
    You could try to replace them individually, one at a time, without taking the system off, because if you caught the leak in time, the gaskets might not be past it yet and the bit extra tightening you can put on a stud might be enough to cure the problem for a long time.
    ---- Dave

    Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Grimly View Post
      If you manage to get them all loose, you'd be as well to take the system off and replace all the bolts with stainless studs (and brass nuts, if available) to avoid this common weak spot in the future.
      I second this. I got my replacement parts from McMaster:

      Metric Zinc-plated Steel Fully Threaded Stud, M8 Size, 50mm Length, 1.25mm Pitch
      94595A361 x 8 each
      McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.


      Metric Brass Hex Nut, M8 Size, 1.25 Mm Pitch, 13 Mm Width, 6.5 Mm Height
      90690A055 x 1 package
      McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Grimly View Post
        All you can do is cross your fingers, hit them repeatedly with penetrant before you do anything, give them a heat cycle or two, more penetrant and try to get some movement on them, in or out.
        Assuming you get them loose, you can try to tighten the leaky ones up, as it doesn't take much to cause a blow-by but be careful of over-stressing them. Once the exhaust starts to leak, it's only a matter of time before you have to replace the gasket rings anyway. If you manage to get them all loose, you'd be as well to take the system off and replace all the bolts with stainless studs (and brass nuts, if available) to avoid this common weak spot in the future.
        You could try to replace them individually, one at a time, without taking the system off, because if you caught the leak in time, the gaskets might not be past it yet and the bit extra tightening you can put on a stud might be enough to cure the problem for a long time.
        if your fitting stainless studs or bolts make sure you use a anti seize on them, best use even if your putting the normal bolts back in
        on old exhaust gaskets tightening rarely works
        i use the nickel anti seize

        ozman

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by ozman View Post
          if your fitting stainless studs or bolts make sure you use a anti seize on them, best use even if your putting the normal bolts back in
          on old exhaust gaskets tightening rarely works
          i use the nickel anti seize

          ozman
          Deffo to all of that. I've fallen back on Copaslip, but need to get another can of nickel Never-Seez or equivalent.
          ---- Dave

          Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

          Comment


            #6
            Hi,
            How do I determine what size etc. of stud to get?

            Thanks for all of the tips

            Comment


              #7
              When you get the bolts out (just be super careful and use a good penetrating oil, work the bolts in and out until they start moving freely), get a small angle pick and remove all the old gaskets. Use two gaskets when you replace them. The flanges on the 4-1 pipes may not sit perfectly parallel to the machined surface in the head and are prone to leak. the second gasket will give them enough compression to seal without bending the ears of the clamps. I have had real good luck with stainless steel Allen head bolts and anti-seize. I remove my 4-1 every year for painting. Removing the bolts with a warm motor is easier after the first time. I have had my exhaust off Three or four times and haven't changed gaskets since I put a fresh set of two in. They seal each time.
              Last edited by OldVet66; 07-03-2014, 06:17 PM.
              http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

              Comment


                #8
                What type of gaskets do you recommend?

                Thank you,
                Andy

                Comment


                  #9
                  I use these. http://www.z1enterprises.com/ShopByC...01010405020805
                  http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Those are the ones in my shopping cart. I just doubled up. Do I need to use a specific torque or will "nice and tight" do?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      the standard suzi gaskets are cheap and work fine
                      i have found 1 ex gasket works fine unless you have a pipe like old vets where the the faces are not parallel
                      i have bikes with stock pipes and assorted 4 into 1s ( V&H kerker bassini yoshimura premier megacycle transzac) and on none do i have to use 2 gaskets
                      you need be careful if you use 2 gaskets as the ex bolts dont grip as much thread making them easier to strip if over tightened
                      when you insert new gaskets put either dobs of grease or silastic on inner surface this will hold the gaskets in place while you fit the pipes
                      bolts are 8mm metric fine

                      goodluck and dont forget the anti seize
                      ozman

                      Comment


                        #12
                        NAPA sells a kit with about ten studs for $8 or so. They even have a little hex on one end so you can hold it while you put the nuts on. I don't use the nuts that come with it, but you could.
                        http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                        Life is too short to ride an L.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          If the ears on your clamps are bent straighten them out while you have them off. They should be nice and snug but not tight enough to bend the ears. Most 4-1 pipes I see have clamps bent trying to seal leaks with one gasket.
                          http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            O'Reilly's has a 55mm length M8x1.25 stud kit in one of their aisles. I picked a set up, there are 10 studs and nuts in there. They have a 6mm hex head you can use to drive in to the head.

                            55mm works for me with my aftermarket exhaust. Might not be the right length for others.

                            I was having issues with the gaskets like sold from Z1. They didn't quite match up to my tube ID/OD.

                            Just purchased some of the traditional Cu ring style gaskets. Hope they work better.

                            A nice trick for these type; you can squash them a little into a slight oval and they'll stay put in the head while you try to mount up the exhaust.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Well they all came out super easy. 2 of them too easy they broke in the head.

                              Comment

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