carbs and delerium

[Guest]

hello people couple of questions... i have a gs1000 (i think it is an american import ..engine no is gs1000 100 599) i don't know its letter i think it is 1978 or 79. had a problem with the tick over so stripped and cleaned the carbs. it has 26mm sliders,i found bent fuel screw and a broken pilot jet, so my questions are what letter is my bike S maybe ? what are the settings for the screws ? do the vacuum hoses need to be blanked, does it matter which vacuum pipe goes to the petrol tap, after replacing the screws and jet, she now bogs down at 3500/4000 revs got any ideas, i have an 850 with diaphragm carbs, a doddle to set up using the lean drop method, one screw, just not sure about what to do with the two screws.... I might put pods on and a dyno jet kit has anybody had any real grief doing this? thanks sorry I know that is more than two questions Simon:

[Nessism]

Aftermarket fuel screws are available in the US at Z1 Enterprises. Make sure the tip is not broken off and stuck in the carb body. Starting point for a stock bike is .75 turns open on the fuel screw and double that on the air screw. Think those carbs only have one vacuum port, on the #3 carb, the other hoses are float bowl vents.

[Agemax]

post up some pics of the bike to help us identify it. do not plug the vent pipes, and the vacuum pipe from the fuel tap goes to the nipple on No.3 carb.
If it has stock airbox set the fuel screw to 1 turn out and the air screw 2 turns out. use that as a base setting and tweak it from there as required.

[SIMONK]

as always fast and very useful info thankyou i think i managed to attatch a pic

[chuck hahn]

Its an E model. The petcock vac is on carb 3 ( starting from the left if your sitting on the bike ). The ones on 2 and 4 are bowl vents and DO NOT get capped off..leave open. see the VM carb tutorial here and do a proper and full tear down of the carbs. get the 32MM intake manifold orings and a VM oring kit from cycleorings.com

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/vm_carb_rebuild.pdf

[chuck hahn]

If you have broken tips AND youll be able to see some shiney brass down the holes with a light, then heres how to remove them from the carb body...I use a sharpened section of a metal coat hanger i sharpen on the bench grinder.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/cbsaunders/gs/pilot_screw_removal.pdf

[SIMONK]

thank you and while we are here....

i think the starter clutch has fritzed, so i have been looking on line.... lots of gs 1000 springs and rollers are they all the same, an E the same as a G etc (maybe not a G) then but you get my point...

[Big T]

What are your symptoms?

[SIMONK]

the starter used to run on a bit and occasionally miss, it now sounds like a bag of spanners on that side low down, i have removed the cover, there is a table spoon of oil in there. the cogs look fine,but i believe the clutch is in behind the rotor/stator, will pull that off tomorrow and have a butchers... the clutch basket on the other side was knackered when I got the bike,so the chances are the starter clutch is in an equally bad state.

[OldVet66]

I would just go ahead and rebuild your VM carburetors, replace the boots and clamps that mount them to the motor. The only carburetor parts necessary are O-rings (www.cycleorings.com), gaskets and any damaged parts. Z1 enterprises are a good source for gaskets Pilot fuel screws and boots. VM's will not idle properly if the Pilot fuel circuit is plugged up, and you can almost bet they are because of there small size of the passages. It takes 24 hours in a good carburetor dip to clean the stripped carburetors properly. Get the bike running nicely in the stock configuration, before making any changes, but they will run nicely with a Dynojet stage-3 jet kit, quality pods and 4-1 pipes. The very first step is a valve adjustment.