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carbs and delerium

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    carbs and delerium

    hello people couple of questions... i have a gs1000 (i think it is an american import ..engine no is gs1000 100 599) i don't know its letter i think it is 1978 or 79. had a problem with the tick over so stripped and cleaned the carbs. it has 26mm sliders,i found bent fuel screw and a broken pilot jet, so my questions are what letter is my bike S maybe ? what are the settings for the screws ? do the vacuum hoses need to be blanked, does it matter which vacuum pipe goes to the petrol tap, after replacing the screws and jet, she now bogs down at 3500/4000 revs got any ideas, i have an 850 with diaphragm carbs, a doddle to set up using the lean drop method, one screw, just not sure about what to do with the two screws.... I might put pods on and a dyno jet kit has anybody had any real grief doing this? thanks sorry I know that is more than two questions Simon:

    #2
    Aftermarket fuel screws are available in the US at Z1 Enterprises. Make sure the tip is not broken off and stuck in the carb body. Starting point for a stock bike is .75 turns open on the fuel screw and double that on the air screw. Think those carbs only have one vacuum port, on the #3 carb, the other hoses are float bowl vents.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #3
      post up some pics of the bike to help us identify it. do not plug the vent pipes, and the vacuum pipe from the fuel tap goes to the nipple on No.3 carb.
      If it has stock airbox set the fuel screw to 1 turn out and the air screw 2 turns out. use that as a base setting and tweak it from there as required.
      1978 GS1085.

      Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

      Comment


        #4
        as always fast and very useful info thankyou i think i managed to attatch a pic

        Comment


          #5
          Its an E model. The petcock vac is on carb 3 ( starting from the left if your sitting on the bike ). The ones on 2 and 4 are bowl vents and DO NOT get capped off..leave open. see the VM carb tutorial here and do a proper and full tear down of the carbs. get the 32MM intake manifold orings and a VM oring kit from cycleorings.com

          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

          Comment


            #6
            If you have broken tips AND youll be able to see some shiney brass down the holes with a light, then heres how to remove them from the carb body...I use a sharpened section of a metal coat hanger i sharpen on the bench grinder.

            MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
            1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

            NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


            I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

            Comment


              #7
              thank you and while we are here....

              i think the starter clutch has fritzed, so i have been looking on line.... lots of gs 1000 springs and rollers are they all the same, an E the same as a G etc (maybe not a G) then but you get my point...

              Comment


                #8
                What are your symptoms?
                1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                2007 DRz 400S
                1999 ATK 490ES
                1994 DR 350SES

                Comment


                  #9
                  the starter used to run on a bit and occasionally miss, it now sounds like a bag of spanners on that side low down, i have removed the cover, there is a table spoon of oil in there. the cogs look fine,but i believe the clutch is in behind the rotor/stator, will pull that off tomorrow and have a butchers... the clutch basket on the other side was knackered when I got the bike,so the chances are the starter clutch is in an equally bad state.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I would just go ahead and rebuild your VM carburetors, replace the boots and clamps that mount them to the motor. The only carburetor parts necessary are O-rings (www.cycleorings.com), gaskets and any damaged parts. Z1 enterprises are a good source for gaskets Pilot fuel screws and boots. VM's will not idle properly if the Pilot fuel circuit is plugged up, and you can almost bet they are because of there small size of the passages. It takes 24 hours in a good carburetor dip to clean the stripped carburetors properly. Get the bike running nicely in the stock configuration, before making any changes, but they will run nicely with a Dynojet stage-3 jet kit, quality pods and 4-1 pipes. The very first step is a valve adjustment.
                    http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ine=1440711157'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.

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