No Fuel?

[Anthony]

Are the float needles the ones that sit inside the float inlet seats, and the floats sit on too of it? I guess I should replace both the float needle and seat? Only thing is that they never did this when I had it running before the rebuild. Is this common? And I tried the IV once again, just a little fuel, and it flooded into the airbox once again. ARG!!!! I'm done for the night. What should be my next step?

[Anthony]

Also, my float inlet seats have vitron o-rings from Robert Barr. So does that rule out the inlet seat, but possibly still be the needle itself?

[Crankthat]

I have read here of people rebuilding there carbs with new gaskets and the floats getting hung up on the gaskets.
That could be a reason they are flooding.
The solution is to open the bowls again and carefully trim the gasket where it would be needed.

Might be a stupid question on my part, I have been racking my brain trying to figure out what is going on with your bike.
I am not even sure if missing this part would cause your symptoms.
The ones pictured location circled in red are from a set of 81 750L carbs waiting for me to rebuild.
The plugs pictured on this set are old and need replaced.
Are the rubber plugs circled in red on your carbs?
These carbs still need everything pulled and a dip.
I only attached the gasket to show you where the problem may be.

[IMG][/IMG]

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[IMG][/IMG]

You will notice a few extra colors in the above photos.

The first picture circled in dark blue.
A flat rubber circular ring belongs over that recessed area.
The recess is actually a metal plug.
Now and then someone looses one of those plugs.

Not to be mistaking with the rubber plug circled in red.

In the second photo once again you will see the area circled in red where the rubber plug belongs.
The rubber plug is removed in this photo.
Marked with light blue you will see another tab that is attached to your float.
Very rarely this tab will get tweaked while rebuilding.
It would take a good bit of force to bend this tab to a position you do not want it in but it is a possibility.

In the third photo you will see the colors marked same as above with white this time around the left side of the gasket and float.
This is just to show you how close the gasket is to the float.
If the gasket sticks out from the sealing surface of the body and bowl it may swell a bit with fuel.
Your float may hang up on it not allowing your valve to seat into mating surface.

I know firsthand as many of us do what a pain in the crow it can be to remove and reattach carbs on this bike.
Trust me when I tell you you should be glad it is not a 550 or 650.
After removing and reattaching a few times you will be a expert at it though and it will get easier and less time consuming.

Go ahead and take them off again check everything listed above and your float height again.
The pictures in the tutorial can be a bit confusing when checking the float height so give it another look to make sure you are doing it right.

Somewhere there is a thread on checking float height with carbs off bike and hoses attached to fittings on bowls and swept upwards so the fuel will not leak out.
If you have some extra hose around find the thread.
Even without fittings to hold hoses in place I am sure you can come up with something to block off any seepage of gas from a small clear hose jammed up the bowl drain screw/bolt hole.

What you will be trying to do is sweep the hose attached on bottom of bowl up past the top of bowl so you can see at what height the fuel stops.

I will try and see if I can find the thread.

[Crankthat]

While searching for the above indicated thread I came across this.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?212776-rubber-plugs-in-carb&highlight=bowl+fittings

And this.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?206176-Is-there-a-spec-for-float-drop&highlight=bowl+fittings

And this.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?147153-Float-height-trouble&highlight=bowl+fittings

All good reading.
I cannot seem to find the thread I am searching for though.

[Anthony]

Thank you for all your help crank, I will get into the carbs again once I get some time. I just have been worn down recently and need the energy and willpower to get my carbs off and open again. I will check all these things and also report back with results. I just hope I can get this fixed, and not ware money on the wrong things.

[Crankthat]

One more thing.
On your needles.
The little pin that the float tab pushes against.
There is a spring inside it.
The movement of that must be good on all 4.
They must be able to move freely in/out without any hangup.

Ok two more things.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?147153-Float-height-trouble&highlight=bowl+fittings
And be sure to click on the link in Larrys post #6 on that thread also.

Sometimes you need a break from wrenching to clear your head and go back to things with a more positive outlook.
Some days just a hour or so will do.
Some times a week or two is needed.
We all feel the pressure of wanting to get the bikes on the road and for there first real ride.
While working on these things the pressure we put on ourselves can be rather high.
We forget to spend time doing other things that bring us the mental relaxation we need in our lives.
When money is a issue we spend it all on the bike without the immediate results we crave.
This adds to the pressure we feel.

Take a weekend off and find a pretty girl to hold hands with.
Break out the rod and reel and lay down by your favorite fishing hole in the sun and relax.
Grab a dog and camera if you have one and follow it up in the hills for a afternoon.

Most important just find some Anthony time and spend it not thinking about the bike.

[Anthony]

Great resources Crank, I greatly appreciate all this. Here is what I'm going to do. I will take a video of the issues I'm having with starting it/fuel/flooding of engine. I want this recorded to show on this thread to see if I'm doing something wrong first. Then, if we decide the carbs need to come off, I will do so, with a video of the inside of carbs and floats in action. I can also provide pictures. I feel these are the best steps to take, and just need to do one thing at a time. This can be hard to diagnose, but I want to make sure it's not a USER ERROR Do you believe these are the best steps to take? I also no longer have the help of my dad who will be gone for another 8 days, so anything I do is on my own. He has been my main resource on this project, as he owned an 83' CB1100F back in the day, and knows about these Jap bikes pretty well. But then again, he has forgotten a lot, and that's where the bountiful source of information from here comes in handy! Also, hands on experience with troubleshooting is a must for me.

[Anthony]

Another thing, is the vacuum port suppose to be plugged off when using a fuel IV (bottle) setup? Mine is not, and could this be causing my issue? I just thought about this, and want to make sure I think of everything before pulling the carbs and spending money :P

[huntb]

Another thing, is the vacuum port suppose to be plugged off when using a fuel IV (bottle) setup? Mine is not, and could this be causing my issue? I just thought about this, and want to make sure I think of everything before pulling the carbs and spending money :P

Yes. You will definitely need to plug the vacuum line. I use a golf tee. Not sure if this would be causing your problem though. Try it and see

[Anthony]

This might fix my issue with the engine racing at 4k and I couldn't adjust it. But, my float needles might be stuck, so I will also try using a rubber hammer on the float bowls to try and "re-seat" them. If this doesn't work, off they come, and I will double check the float height and make sure they are seating and working properly.

[Steve]

... I will also try using a rubber hammer on the float bowls to try and "re-seat" them.

Might need a sharper 'rap' than the rubber will provide.

A couple of light taps with a steel hammer might do better.

.

[Anthony]

Thanks Steve, I'll remember that. And also, could my air correctors be causing my bike to not start properly since I have a stock airbox (too much restriction)? I do have a 4-1 pipe, so I thought the whole DJ kit was applicable, and to just use the 124's instead of the 130's. Is this all correct?

[Dodik]

I think you are changing way too many variables at once,
if you get it to start again even at 4k rpms on choke it is fine, let it run a bit lie 2-3 minutes and start easing the choke off,
if/when rpms drop too low to sustain idle adjust air screw (the big on one the bottom) by screwing it in (clockwise)
it should raise the idle to where bike can run all by itself.
when you get the bike to sustain idle even a high one is when you start adjusting mixture screws on top.

may i ask why you are not using the gas tank? but an aux/IV

I usually use my tank with all lines connected but prop it with oil bottle or roll of paper towels for some room.

[Anthony]

I have read to use the IV method for better clearance, and that most didn't want to risk knocking over the tank if connected but sitting on a different surface. I felt kinda the same way, but if I can't get it running, I might need to do the gas tank to rule that out. I need to record how I'm doing it so someone can tell me what I'm doing wrong

[Anthony]

Okay so I just got done messing around with my bike some more. After plugging the vacuum line, it started right up, but it still flooded, and only ran for about 10 seconds, then a loud bang happened. This happened twice, except the second run lasted about a minute or two, which I did record and am uploading to YouTube now. Here are the spark plugs after it's first run of the day, and were perfectly clean before: http://imgur.com/a/vNDI1
Here is the video I recorded of everything I was doing and my setup (sorry for the vertical video ):

So can anyone help me out now that I provided these things?