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Bst36ss carbs 1200 motor tune

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    #31
    Originally posted by posplayr View Post
    So what bikes did you use them on? 16V 1100E? I assume they work the bike up?

    From the pictures they seem to have the same plastic slides are the earlier GSXR carbs.
    Bored 1100 2-valve...



    But, of course, they don't fit.

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      #32
      Originally posted by GSX1000E View Post
      Bored 1100 2-valve...



      But, of course, they don't fit.

      Looks very good.

      I will mention that it is pretty much common knowledge around the Gixxer.com site that you need to run the dual oval K&N pods to make those carbs act right.

      Do you have a WB02 you are planning to use or just do Plug Chops?

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        #33
        Story time. I went to re-torque my head bolts, first loosening them. They had an ungodly amount of torque on them, id say in the 70ft lb range, whereas spec is 29. I re-torqued in the proper order and one of the studs broke around what i'd guess to be 20ft lbs. I was so close to getting this thing on the road this year, now i'll need to pull the head, replace the studs, head gasket o-rings, and valve seals. At least the oil leaking will be taken care of. Talk about **** luck.

        Craftsman 1/2" click type torque wrench.
        Last edited by Guest; 08-17-2014, 05:25 PM.

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          #34
          Originally posted by yoshisakan View Post
          Story time. I went to re-torque my head bolts, first loosening them. They had an ungodly amount of torque on them, id say in the 70ft lb range, whereas spec is 29. I re-torqued in the proper order and one of the studs broke around what i'd guess to be 20ft lbs. I was so close to getting this thing on the road this year, now i'll need to pull the head, replace the studs, head gasket o-rings, and valve seals. At least the oil leaking will be taken care of. Talk about **** luck.

          Craftsman 1/2" click type torque wrench.
          Sorry about that. Always good to have some weights from a weight set and do a quick calibration at your planned max torque level so you are sure to be close.

          As long as the head did not get hot, you can probably reuse the head gasket.

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            #35
            I don't know that the torque wrench was off. I'm leaning toward the last owner over tightening/stretching the threads. It really had very little torque on it when it snapped.

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              #36
              Hate to bump this thread but I will. Replaced all the head studs and nuts with APE, also went with an OEM head gasket, kept the stock base gasket since no leaks were apparent and it wasn't leaking anyway. The one broken stud was a nightmare to remove, I had to keep welding onto it to try to get it to turn and eventually got a weld that stuck.

              I am still having the same fuel problem though, and a clearance problem with my POD filters. This is in part because of the non-stock motor placement and is exaggerated by the nitrous flanges. Does anyone have any ideas how I can get more clearance between the filters and the gas tank? They will not fit as is and I had bought some sponge filters to use instead but they aren't very good quality. Here is a pic of the problem. bike.jpg

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                #37
                Here is another picture with the cheap pods. The tank isnt even bolted down and its already making contact with the pods. Some kind of turn down would be nice, but it would have to be on the intake side of the carb, because there is zero clearance beneath the carbs due to the nitrous solenoids. bike2.jpg

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                  #38
                  What intake manifolds are you using??? Are they mounted on the wrong ports? How were you planning to adjust the float levels with them mounted like that?

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                    #39
                    Here's a picture in her new home. Bought a duplex in November, the garage was totally unfinished with no gas or electric. So needless to say, The past 2 months have been filled with construction, insulation, power, heat, and lots of trips to Home Depot. bike3.jpg

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                      #40
                      Last garage shot: bike4.jpg

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                        #41
                        GSX1000E - I have always pulled the carbs to make adjustments in the past, so that was the plan here. Ideally there would be room to plan for all of this, but unfortunately the nitrous kit takes up a lot of real estate on a frame that is already limited in this area. The boots and flanges are on the correct cylinder ports. The intake manifolds are from the stock bandit 1200.

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                          #42
                          Just LOOK at what your float level would need to be at for those carbs to work at all. Until you get those carbs closer to level with the ground...

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                            #43
                            Ah ****, I see exactly what you're saying now. I'm surprised this wasn't discovered earlier in the thread. That's probably the whole problem with the idle also. The bowls aren't filling correctly. Damn, there probably isn't going to be an easy way to fix this. Might have to remake the motor mounts.

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                              #44
                              Looking at Bandits though, there isn't a whole lot of difference in angle. It actually looks very minor. Take this one for example: bbike.jpg

                              I'll go through and make sure the Boots are on the correct cylinder ports. It's been a while since i've looked at this. I may have to find a creative way of re-routing the nitrous and fuel lines. Do they make some kind of boot that has a 45 degree angle that would make these sit flatter?
                              Last edited by Guest; 01-16-2015, 11:30 AM.

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                                #45
                                Look back at post #31. Those are not stock GS 2-valve intake manifolds BTW. Notice the float bowl orientation.

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