Ultrasonic carb clean – Still need to disassemble carb and replace o-rings?

[Andrew Vanis]

Ultrasonic carb clean – Still need to disassemble carb and replace o-rings?

Wishing that the annual carb clean process may be easier by getting an ultrasonic (US) cleaner to dip the whole carb into.

I found a few posts that talk about ultrasonic cleaner quality and some on fluid choices but nothing on carb cleaning technique using US.

What has been your experience?

Thanks,

[chuck hahn]

Yes. You should disassemble them fully AND THEN run them in the machine. Cant get into the deep passages and crannies with them assembled. Sorry to break that to you but its the truth.

[Andrew Vanis]

OK, what (if any) cleaning technique differences are there using the US vs. the conventional carb dip process ?

[chuck hahn]

Speed and cost are the major factors. Dip is 20.00 at Walmart and its a 24 HR dip cycle. Ultra Sonic takes an Hr or two depending on how corroded they are and the machines are costly. The techniques the same..disassembled, treat, new orings, reassmeble.

[Steve]

I have a couple of comments and a a couple of questions.

Ultrasonic carb clean – Still need to disassemble carb and replace o-rings?

If your goal is to clean the carbs, YES, you will have to disassemble them completely. If you have recently replaced the o-rings, it won't be necessary to do them again, but if this is a set of carbs that is 'new' to you, it is better to start with a known quantity and start fresh with everything.

Wishing that the annual carb clean process may be easier by getting an ultrasonic (US) cleaner to dip the whole carb into.

This part intrigues me. Why is this an "annual" process?

If you live in an area where you stop riding for a few months every year (I don't remember Albuquerque getting that cold when I lived there, but I was just a kid.), just winterize the bike properly and you won't have to touch the carbs for several years.

A few years ago, I had to take then engine apart in my wife's bike to replace some parts. While I had it apart, I figured "what the heck, I'll change the o-rings in the carbs while I'm at it". All the o-rings still looked good. The carbs still worked well, there were no issues with the way they ran, I just did it ... "because". It had been SIX YEARS since I had rebuilt the carbs, and I had done NOTHING during that time to refresh them except winterize them some time between Thanksgiving and Christmas, then wake them up about Easter time.

.

[Agemax]

still have to strip them completely to u/s clean them. put all the small parts and brassware in a seperate container and u/s them as well.
dont leave the carbs in too long or at too high temperature or they will discolour. 20-30mins max.
take them out, rinse in cold water and see what they look like. if needed, pop them back in for a while longer. make sure you rinse them thoroughly and blow them out afterwards.

plenty of solutions to use, everybody has their own preferences. vinegar,lemon juice or dish washer liquid WILL NOT give you the cleaning you will get from proper solutions.

[Andrew Vanis]

This part intrigues me. Why is this an "annual" process? .......I had done NOTHING during that time to refresh them except winterize them some time between Thanksgiving and Christmas, then wake them up about Easter time.

.

Just seems that way.

Curious about your winterizing procedure. Seems like there is something for me to learn there.

BTW, before seeing your response that o-rings may not need to be replaced, I just ordered a couple sets of o-rings thinking I'd like ot have a spare set on hand. guess I may now have two spares.

I really like the quick clean prospect of the US process.

[8ball]

Turn the petcock off, drain the carbs, put a little bit of stabilizer in a full tank of fuel, disconnect the battery (if not on a battery tender). Boom, you are set for the winter.

[JJ]

Turn the petcock off, drain the carbs, put a little bit of stabilizer in a full tank of fuel, disconnect the battery (if not on a battery tender). Boom, you are set for the winter.

I fill my tank, along with a double dose of fuel stabilizer, ride it a little ways, and park it without draining the bowls. That method has never failed me yet. But then, mine very seldom sits for more than a month or so. DO NOT crank it during storage unless you plan to ride it for at least a half hour.

[Steve]

Curious about your winterizing procedure. Seems like there is something for me to learn there.

JJ's procedure is pretty much what I do, but I will include a copy of a post I made just last week on the same topic.

I fill my tank, along with a double dose of fuel stabilizer, ride it a little ways, and park it without draining the bowls. That method has never failed me yet. But then, mine very seldom sits for more than a month or so. DO NOT crank it during storage unless you plan to ride it for at least a half hour.

You are going to get MANY different opinions on this. I can only offer what has worked for me, here in oHIo, where the bikes get parked for about four months.

I do NOT drain the carbs. I will add about double the recommended dose of Sta-Bil, drive the half mile to the gas station and top off the tank, then go "around the block" to get the treated gas through all the carb passages. The size of my "block" will depend on the temperature that day. It might be a total of about a mile back to the house or it might be as much as 20 miles.

I usually try to do an oil change so fresh oil sits in the bearings.

I park the bike on the center stand, connect the battery tender, cover it with a sheet, then ignore it until it's time for the next ride or I need to do some other maintenance on it.

It remains in "ready to ride" condition, basically only needing a quick tire pressure check before hitting the road.

.

[JEEPRUSTY]

Is it too cold in NM to not just take it for a good run once a week or so?

[8ball]

The only reason I drain the carbs is because I have had too many bikes parked for the winter, then sit longer than I intended because I didn't get around to them the next season. And I end up having to replace float needles because of the E-crap gas that degrades the rubber. I used to just run them until they use the gas in the bowls, but have had residue left that varnished up the bottom of the bowls. This is one of the pitfalls of having more bikes than I should.

As far as doubling up on the stabilizer, I am not a fan of any fuel additive snake oils, usually, but I concede that sometimes it is beneficial, so when I do use something, I use it sparingly. But that is just a personal preference. I do remember about two or three years ago, there were a BUNCH of threads on multiple forums about people having issues after winter storage having used Stabil. I don't know if that was a particular bad batch of the stuff, the change in the gas/ethanol formulations, or any number of other variables. It was the only time I had heard of issues with it, and haven't heard of any other problems the last two years. I don't like what the gas companies are putting in the gas, much less putting anything else in it, myself. But again. THIS IS MY OWN PERSONAL OPINION, and do not wish to foist it on others.

[greg78gs750]

annual? you are doing something wrong. maybe thin the herd?