Potential for PPP

[cowboyup3371]

Okay, I'm needing some clarification.

I'm looking at the manual and I see: Pilot Jet; Main Jet; Start Jet; Main Air Jet.

I've identified my Main Jet @ 120/125. Pilot Jet I think I have identified @ 45.

I have pulled my Main Air Jet, and I was wondering what the stock size is? I cannot find this in the manual, or am I overlooking it? Wait, now I'm even further confused - Main Air Jet size is 1.7, mine say 71.5?? What in the world am I looking at??

Once I replace the jets, is there some special way they need to be installed or do I just turn until they stop?

***
Also, I'm now further confused by the Pilot Jet - the picture on z1 enterprises shows several holes on the side of the jet. Mine only has 2, on either end of the jet. What's with this?

According to the Alpha Sports website parts fiche for a 81 1000G, the stock Pilot Air Jet should be a 200, stock main jet is a 115, stock jet needle is a x-6, stock pilot is a 40, and stock needle jet is a 5D50


But there are smarter folks than I who will know more accurate information

[Spyderman]

here are the factory specs for your bike

Model

Year

Country

Carb

bore

ID

idle rpm

idle +/-

fuel level

float height

main jet

main air jet

jet needle

needle jet

pilot jet

throttle valve

bypass

pilot outlet

valve seat

starter jet

pilot screw

pilot air jet

cable play

GS1000G/GL(X)

81

US

BS34ss

34

49160

1050

100

5.0=/-0.5

22.4+/-1.0

115

1.7

5d57-3

x-8

40

0.9,0.8,0.8

0.7

2

45

pre-set

160

0.5 - 1.0mm

[BigD_83]

Pictures would help greatly with the id of the jets. Sounds like somebody managed to put in a small main jet where an air jet should be.

[Call Me Ahab]

Pictures would help greatly with the id of the jets. Sounds like somebody managed to put in a small main jet where an air jet should be.

Wow. I'll post some as soon as I get home, working an overnight shift tonight.

In regards to the post w/ specs - I have found three different sets of specifications for my bike, how can I be sure which one is accurate? Are they all more or less accurate? If so, why are there so many sets of specs?

[Spyderman]

In regards to the post w/ specs - I have found three different sets of specifications for my bike, how can I be sure which one is accurate? Are they all more or less accurate? If so, why are there so many sets of specs?

well there are different specs because it was dependant on which country they were being shipped to for sale some countries were stricter than others when it came to emissions control

[Call Me Ahab]

Aha... so then it shouldn't make a difference nowadays which I choose to go with - to my knowledge, my bikes have never been emissions tested anyways...

Am I correct in my inference then, that they are all safe to use?

well there are different specs because it was dependant on which country they were being shipped to for sale some countries were stricter than others when it came to emissions control

[Spyderman]

Aha... so then it shouldn't make a difference nowadays which I choose to go with - to my knowledge, my bikes have never been emissions tested anyways...

Am I correct in my inference then, that they are all safe to use?

yes sir you would be correct they are all safe to use how ever i would use whichever is closest to what you have for example needle number (5D57-3) the number after the dash is the position that the clip is in on the slots on the needle 1= rich 5= lean the higher you lift the needle away from the carb venturi the richer it gets

[BigD_83]

yes sir you would be correct they are all safe to use how ever i would use whichever is closest to what you have for example needle number (5D57-3) the number after the dash is the position that the clip is in on the slots on the needle 1= rich 5= lean the higher you lift the needle away from the carb venturi the richer it gets

Now there is a new piece of information that I didn't know. Thank you, Spydie...

[Call Me Ahab]

yes sir you would be correct they are all safe to use how ever i would use whichever is closest to what you have for example needle number (5D57-3) the number after the dash is the position that the clip is in on the slots on the needle 1= rich 5= lean the higher you lift the needle away from the carb venturi the richer it gets

AHA! Thank you! that one blew my mind a bit, I've been googling all kinda weirdness trying to interpret that, it never occured to me that it was a needle - CLIP; not needle-clip as in a.. clip... i can't explain myself, but I seriously misunderstood. Thanks for clearing that one up

[Spyderman]

your welcome gents glad i could help

[Call Me Ahab]

You've all been fantastic, and i have but one final question before I order new Air Jets, Pilot Jets, Main jets and my diaphragm...

Am I correct in understanding that the smaller size jets will yield increased high-end power and speed? Or do I have this backwards? I'd just like to be sure I've got everything in a row before I make my purchase. Also, z1enterprises doesn't seem to sell air jets, is that what I'd need a "DynoJet Kit" for?

[hillsy]

The correct sized jets will give you the best performance. It's not a case of smaller is better (although if the bike is running rich, then smaller jets are the way to go).

A Dynojet kit will normally come with a selection of main and pilot jets, and a set of needles. It may come with a drill to drill out the slides but normally they don't come with air jets (they sometimes come with a drill to drill out the stock air jets).

It's kinda neat to have all that stuff, but really if your needles are not worn, then just getting replacement main and pilot jets will be fine - and buying the jets by themselves will be far cheaper than a Dynojet kit.

[Spyderman]

what your after is
getting the correct air fuel ratio (AFR) 14.7 is ideal
but anywhere close will do
but always better to be a bit on the rich side that too lean
when your in the neighbourhood you will know because the engine will run as it should
with a factory air box and factory exhaust you have a set amount of air entering and exiting the engine
the factory jet sizes air, pilot, main will introduce close to the perfect amount of fuel into the intake system for the engine to run correctly
anytime you change the amount of air coming into or leaving the engine then you need to rejet to get back to the correct AFR
so by retirning your bikes carbs back to factory specs because you have factory airbox and exhaust you should get a motorcycle that will run as it was designed to in the first place

good luck with everything and let us know how you get on with your bike

[81GS850]

One thing I didn't see mentioned was verify the float level on these carbs first. That will affect all throttle positions. Also I thought the "stock" needles only had one clip position. It's the aftermarket needles that have more than one position. I could be wrong though.

[Spyderman]

I might be wrong but i thought early on i suggested that float height be checked and you may be correct about the needles i do
know that some of the canadian ones had adjustable needle and not sure if they were the same in other countries besides the US