I have used bolts to "mold" threads in to the JB before so then the tap would start in perfect sync and chase true again.
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screwed up my carbs --- anyone have some laying around? best choices?
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Being poor is the mother of invention and learning. Hope you catch the threads just right and not tear up the parts of the OEM ones that are still there..its an iffy deal. Either catch them just right the first time or sacrifice them to being replaced anyway.
I have used bolts to "mold" threads in to the JB before so then the tap would start in perfect sync and chase true again.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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New Question
There are 3 small lock washers left over that I have no idea where they go. Are any lock washers used inside the carbs?
These carbs had been apart before because they had 115 pilot screws and they had the caps off already.
They are too small for the bowl screws or top covers, and too large for the bottom of the pilot screw (I had 4 tiny ones for those)82 gs1100e FAUX Skunk
80 gs1000s
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bille
Originally posted by Gregory View PostHello all. I goofed up badly.
I tried an easy out on a pilot jet for my 34mm cv carbs on the 82 gs1100e. The easy out broke off in it and I cant get it drilled out to put a bigger easy out on. I am assuming this carb body is trash now.
I am actually going to be doing two sets of these carbs since my friends 821100e also needs carb cleaning and bigger jets as well.... and one of his also has a pilot screw that doesn't have a slot left in it (although I may do it right).
Since I am in a position to have to spend money anyway, what are the most ideal carbs to run on this bike (was told 33mm smoothbores)? And what is the most affordable option?
I would eventually like to go to a 4-1 and pods but don't have them yet. His bike will remain stock.
So what I did was take a straight head screw driver, stick it in there and hit it 3 or 4 times, hard with a hammer. The screw driver dug right into the brass jet and I was able to screw it out! Again, won't help you now but if you ever get one stuck again maybe try that?
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Originally posted by Gregory View PostNew Question
There are 3 small lock washers left over that I have no idea where they go. Are any lock washers used inside the carbs?
These carbs had been apart before because they had 115 pilot screws and they had the caps off already.
They are too small for the bowl screws or top covers, and too large for the bottom of the pilot screw (I had 4 tiny ones for those)
A gs friend called me and we have come to the conclusion that the extra washers must not be needed. Maybe the PO had mistakenly added them somewhere.82 gs1100e FAUX Skunk
80 gs1000s
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Originally posted by Gregory View PostThanks 60ratrod, I have been looking for a #1 carb body on ebay, but haven't scored yet. A friend told me he thinks there is a company that sells new or refurbished ones for about $40 each.
I actually have a set of 29mm smoothbores I am going to eventually put on my gs1000, but was told by a racing guy that they wouldn't give the 16valve 1100e motor enough gas. Another race guy said a good performance improvement that is just bolt on would be the 33mm smoothbores, but the prices for them are WAAAY out of my affordability.1978 GS 1000 (since new)
1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
1978 GS 1000 (parts)
1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
2007 DRz 400S
1999 ATK 490ES
1994 DR 350SES
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