First Berryman's carb dip in 32 years of owning a GS.

[Carter Turk]

Decided to give it a go on the 1150 ES. Ordered an O-Ring kit from Robert Barr, showed up in 2 days time, awesome. From a little net searching, sounds like this Berryman's stuff is not as good as it used to be. I only did about 12 hour dips per carb, because it didn't seem like anymore stuff was coming off if they dipped longer. The outside of the carbs were painted black, which bubbled up and off with B-12 carb cleaner, but I didn't order any float bowl gaskets, so I left the bowls black and sprayed the rest with all the parts removed, minus the butterflies before dipping. Wasn't sure how to take those off and honestly was worried I wouldn't wind the springs right on reassembly. I managed to bugger one of the butterflies, attempting to remove it, the two screws were peened over and it was difficult trying to slide the plate out. After gouging one, I left the others alone, not sure if there's an o-ring in there or not.


After dipping each carb and internal bits, they looked cleaner, but carbon residue was still present on the throats of the carbs. A little wipe and it came off, followed by scotch brite and more B-12. I reemed every orifice with a K&L reemer tool with various sized pokers (emulsion tube holes, pilots, etc). By the way, the fuel T on the 1150 carbs I have, between 2-3 are rubberized aluminum. I tried poking one O-ring out and realized the whole T was rubber bonded to the aluminum.

Anyway, they're back together, bench synched, and the bike fired right up after priming the carbs...but there's a bog right where, I think the pilots & A/F transition to the needle. It may be a coil or electrically related, not sure. The bog happened before the dip and I changed 1-4 coil with a spare, and put a Dyna-S on in place of the stock ignition and it still bogged. Then I discovered it wasn't electrical at all, the #1 carb boot was cracked more than an inch. Put a spare boot on, still bogging at about 4 grand or 1/4 throttle, in all gears. Clears up after 5.5 grand. Never used to do this before discovering the cracked boot. Valves were adjusted less than 1500 miles ago. The plugs looked all light brown and dry, the plug wires were nipped with NGK caps. Battery is at 12.6V at rest, haven't checked it running, got some lame neighbors who are suing us.


After 30 mile ride, I sprayed the exhaust manifold with water, 1,2,3 were hotter than 4. My multi-meter skills are embarrassing, but any suggestions appreciated.

[mrbill5491]

Dip the carbs 24 hrs no less. And yeah the center fuel T is metal, has to with stand the pulling and tugging on the fuel line at times. A plastic one would break too easy. Probably a good idea to replace all the intake boots and the boots on the air box. If they are the originals they need it. No need to remove the butterflies, there is a nylon bushing in the carb bodies for the throttle shaft, the dip won't hurt them, they go into the dip as well. DO make sure you pull the idle mixture needles out. They have this tiny oring on them. Just remember 24 hrs no more. Check your floats as well, make sure one hasn't gone bad by soaking up some gas into it. Once the carbs are done in the dip, wash them off in water, then some B-12 spray, your carb cleaning rods and some compressed air to finish up the cleaning process. Also check the rubbers on the diaphragms, make sure they don't have tiny holes or tears in them. Do your self a favor and replace all those JIS phillip type screws with SS hex head fasteners. Not only they look better they work better...diaphragms covers, fuel bowls and the gang plates.

[eil]

I reemed every orifice with a K&L reemer tool with various sized pokers (emulsion tube holes, pilots, etc).

This part has me a little worried. The size of the little jets and passages is very critical, if you've accidentally enlarged any by reaming them out, they might be junk. All you need to do is poke a little wire through once or twice to make sure the passage is clear. Even that is largely optional if you can shine light through the other side and verifiy a clean, round hole.

[Carter Turk]

This part has me a little worried. The size of the little jets and passages is very critical, if you've accidentally enlarged any by reaming them out, they might be junk. All you need to do is poke a little wire through once or twice to make sure the passage is clear. Even that is largely optional if you can shine light through the other side and verifiy a clean, round hole.

.

No worries, I wasn't enlarging any holes. Everything slipped nice and easy just like that last date.

[dorkburger]

Mr Bill, thanks for the tip. I plan to do this I same job on my 1150 carbs this winter. When I bought my bike in 99 I stripped the carbs up to the point of unganging them. I didnt know of the o rings and such at the time. My carb boots are looking suspect also.
Im lucky as i have Eds (Nessim) tutorial on the exact carbs on this site

[londonboards]

I know you have the carbs back together again but if you do take them (or any other set) apart, don't be afraid to take the butterflies out. Yes there is a nylon bearing in there but there are also rubber washers that perish or in my case, were absent.

Here is the nylon washer/bearing and you can see the rubber seal underneath:



And in one of mine it was missing altogether. Don't know how much difference it made but I was glad to have stripped them right down:



Getting the butterfly screws out will need the exact JIS screwdriver. Then support the stainless steel throttle rod with a piece of timber:







Check my GS1100G Resto Blog Dad's Rebuild in my signature for more details.

Greetings

[Carter Turk]

London thanks for the detailed photos. How did it go winding the springs back on the throttle plate?