Decided to give it a go on the 1150 ES. Ordered an O-Ring kit from Robert Barr, showed up in 2 days time, awesome. From a little net searching, sounds like this Berryman's stuff is not as good as it used to be. I only did about 12 hour dips per carb, because it didn't seem like anymore stuff was coming off if they dipped longer. The outside of the carbs were painted black, which bubbled up and off with B-12 carb cleaner, but I didn't order any float bowl gaskets, so I left the bowls black and sprayed the rest with all the parts removed, minus the butterflies before dipping. Wasn't sure how to take those off and honestly was worried I wouldn't wind the springs right on reassembly. I managed to bugger one of the butterflies, attempting to remove it, the two screws were peened over and it was difficult trying to slide the plate out. After gouging one, I left the others alone, not sure if there's an o-ring in there or not.
After dipping each carb and internal bits, they looked cleaner, but carbon residue was still present on the throats of the carbs. A little wipe and it came off, followed by scotch brite and more B-12. I reemed every orifice with a K&L reemer tool with various sized pokers (emulsion tube holes, pilots, etc). By the way, the fuel T on the 1150 carbs I have, between 2-3 are rubberized aluminum. I tried poking one O-ring out and realized the whole T was rubber bonded to the aluminum.
Anyway, they're back together, bench synched, and the bike fired right up after priming the carbs...but there's a bog right where, I think the pilots & A/F transition to the needle. It may be a coil or electrically related, not sure. The bog happened before the dip and I changed 1-4 coil with a spare, and put a Dyna-S on in place of the stock ignition and it still bogged. Then I discovered it wasn't electrical at all, the #1 carb boot was cracked more than an inch. Put a spare boot on, still bogging at about 4 grand or 1/4 throttle, in all gears. Clears up after 5.5 grand. Never used to do this before discovering the cracked boot. Valves were adjusted less than 1500 miles ago. The plugs looked all light brown and dry, the plug wires were nipped with NGK caps. Battery is at 12.6V at rest, haven't checked it running, got some lame neighbors who are suing us.
After 30 mile ride, I sprayed the exhaust manifold with water, 1,2,3 were hotter than 4. My multi-meter skills are embarrassing, but any suggestions appreciated.
After dipping each carb and internal bits, they looked cleaner, but carbon residue was still present on the throats of the carbs. A little wipe and it came off, followed by scotch brite and more B-12. I reemed every orifice with a K&L reemer tool with various sized pokers (emulsion tube holes, pilots, etc). By the way, the fuel T on the 1150 carbs I have, between 2-3 are rubberized aluminum. I tried poking one O-ring out and realized the whole T was rubber bonded to the aluminum.
Anyway, they're back together, bench synched, and the bike fired right up after priming the carbs...but there's a bog right where, I think the pilots & A/F transition to the needle. It may be a coil or electrically related, not sure. The bog happened before the dip and I changed 1-4 coil with a spare, and put a Dyna-S on in place of the stock ignition and it still bogged. Then I discovered it wasn't electrical at all, the #1 carb boot was cracked more than an inch. Put a spare boot on, still bogging at about 4 grand or 1/4 throttle, in all gears. Clears up after 5.5 grand. Never used to do this before discovering the cracked boot. Valves were adjusted less than 1500 miles ago. The plugs looked all light brown and dry, the plug wires were nipped with NGK caps. Battery is at 12.6V at rest, haven't checked it running, got some lame neighbors who are suing us.
After 30 mile ride, I sprayed the exhaust manifold with water, 1,2,3 were hotter than 4. My multi-meter skills are embarrassing, but any suggestions appreciated.
