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what to rinse my gas tank with?

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    what to rinse my gas tank with?

    I'm going to be doing the old "gas tank full of ball bearings in the dryer" trick tomorrow & want to know what to rinse the crap out with after I shake as much loose as I can.
    80 gs1100 16-v ported & polished, 1 mm oversize intake valves, 1150 carbs w/Dynojet stage 3, plus Bandit/gsxr upgrades

    #2
    Evaporust or white vinegar
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      Ball bearings are smooth and just roll over the rust and crud. You need something rough to scrub the inside of the tank if you want to get the most out of that tumbling work out.

      BTW, some phosphate solution will eat off all the crud poste haste. No need to do the tumbling business.

      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

      Comment


        #4
        I did similar with mine and used kerosene to clean it all out later. A pint of gas to get rid of the kero after that.
        ---- Dave

        Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

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          #5
          Depends on if your wanting to save the paint or not. If NOT...then use some acetone or MEK to help cut anything stuck in the crease. If your gonna save the paint then go with some super hot water and strong dish soap. set a shop vac exhaust in the filler cap to dry it as quickly as is possible when done.
          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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            #6
            Tank storage

            Don't mean to hijack, but I've got a spare '83 1100e gas tank sitting in my basement. Don't even ask me why I bought it, some dream of having two sets of different colored bodywork ala Nardy's old beauty.

            I can't see using it in the foreseeable future, so should I coat the inside with some oil to fight rust?
            1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

            2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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              #7
              Use Metal Rescue... safe on paint, chrome, rubber etc. Leave for 24 hrs. Environmentally friendly. Fill tank with 1 Gallon of metal rescue, after 24 hours flip tank over for 2nd 24 hours. Rinse well...and you are done!

              I have used this in the water rooms in Fresenius Hemodialysis Clinics and it works. Restored my GS1100EX gas tanks with it as well.

              Here is a video of what to expect.

              Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.
              Last edited by Guest; 11-16-2014, 12:02 AM.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Joe Guilbeau View Post
                Use Metal Rescue...
                Here is a video of what to expect.

                http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EECdC8hWWE
                Cool video (cool wife).
                1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

                Comment


                  #9
                  had to learn this since moving to the midwest.

                  Never have I seen tanks as nasty as the Midwest motorcycle tanks..

                  for the super crusty tanks I use a 10" long small chain 3/4" links or A container full of nuts have sharp edges not gravel not bearings Just get the big stuff off especially the top inside of the tank.. But if that severe procedure of rust removal is needed - consider the tank useless and decide if it is for use or for show...


                  You really need to get to fresh metal and if the seam is thin. consider a riding tank that holds fluid and just have a for show tank.

                  To get to fresh metal and make it as new as possible - Use up to a half gallon muriatic acid - put it inside the tank full strength - dangerous but most effective!! This will get the biggest part of the job done in 15 minutes. get the paint wet and keep it wet.. slosh and slosh rotate 360 degrees in 360 degrees -- all over and over - don't breathe the vapors....if it splashes set it down and rinse the outside. don't get it on your skin. it burns.

                  drain and rinse inside with water. When all you have is clean water , drain and shake. drain and shake. Immediately dry inside the tank with a pint of Isopropyl alcohol. blow dry with compressed air - this is where you either coat the inside with a poly coating or slosh 2 stroke oil and a little gas to seal the bare metal.

                  kreem is a retail product -and it works GREAT if installed properly- people that say other did it WRONG or the tank was un-save-able. PM me I have an industrial product I will share at cost. it is purple
                  Last edited by trippivot; 11-21-2014, 12:15 PM. Reason: spelled the acid wrong.
                  SUZUKI , There is no substitute

                  Comment


                    #10
                    SAFETY TIP OF THE DAY!!!!!!!!!

                    Have 2 or 3 boxes of Arm and Hammer baking soda in the house AND in the shop -- it neutralizes acids!! this procedure uses a harsh acid -saving paint? got it on your hand ?? -battery acid - under your seat - on the frame --- on your swing arm... on your arm or hand?? generously dust with the stuff and rinse with water ...
                    SUZUKI , There is no substitute

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Would a little 10w-40 in an unused tank cause any problems when (if) the tank is put back into service?
                      1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                      2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I've used the Evaporust and white vinegar and done the tumble in the dryer wrapped in a blanket with screws and bolts inside. Ball bearings are too smooth as previously stated and I've heard a small chain works good too. I'll check out that prep etch for an old Honda tank I need to clean and coat and I'm curious about the acid. I have pets and kids and even with proper PPE I'm a little hesitant.

                        I like the Evaporust as it's more effective IMO than the vinegar, (I've tried the apple cider variety as well) and is reusable and non toxic. $32/gallon on Amazon. I've used it twice and bet I can use it a few more times. I'm still undecided on Kreem vs Caswell's 2 part epoxy product for coating though. Think I'll try one of each as well as do some more reading for opinions or studies. For storage in winter I add stabil and keep the tanks topped off to keep rust to a minimum.
                        ----------------------------------------------------------------
                        2014 BMW F800GSA | 1981 GS850GX | 1982 GS750T (now the son-in-laws) | 1983 GS750ES | 1983 Honda V45 Magna (needs some love) | 1980 Yamaha GT80 and LB80 "Chappy" | 1973 and 1975 Honda XL250 projects

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Rob S. View Post
                          Would a little 10w-40 in an unused tank cause any problems when (if) the tank is put back into service?
                          A little bit of oil shouldn't hurt although I'd swish some gas around in it before putting it back in service. You might have a little bit of smoke out the exhaust on first start up though.
                          80 gs1100 16-v ported & polished, 1 mm oversize intake valves, 1150 carbs w/Dynojet stage 3, plus Bandit/gsxr upgrades

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Muriatic acid is nasty stuff; very aggressive and it gives off nasty fumes. I don't recommend it to derust tanks, but you can use it if you are very careful and neutralize the stuff afterwards. Phosphoric acid is a much safer material. It won't eat your skin super fast and it doesn't need to be neutralized with baking soda. Naval jelly is phosphoric acid. Metal prep as sold by paint supply manufacturers is phosphoric acid. The Prep and Etch sauce available at Home Depot is phosphoric acid. The point is that phosphoric acid is the product of choice by industry to derust steel. There are other methods of course, including some very nice boutique products like EvapoRust, but if you just want to derust your tank quickly and safely, phosphoric acid is the correct product.

                            BTW, both Por-15 and Kreem include phosphoric acid in their fuel tank restoration kits.
                            Ed

                            To measure is to know.

                            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                              Muriatic acid is nasty stuff; very aggressive and it gives off nasty fumes. I don't recommend it to derust tanks, but you can use it if you are very careful and neutralize the stuff afterwards. Phosphoric acid is a much safer material. It won't eat your skin super fast and it doesn't need to be neutralized with baking soda. Naval jelly is phosphoric acid. Metal prep as sold by paint supply manufacturers is phosphoric acid. The Prep and Etch sauce available at Home Depot is phosphoric acid. The point is that phosphoric acid is the product of choice by industry to derust steel. There are other methods of course, including some very nice boutique products like EvapoRust, but if you just want to derust your tank quickly and safely, phosphoric acid is the correct product.

                              BTW, both Por-15 and Kreem include phosphoric acid in their fuel tank restoration kits.
                              I'm off to Home Depot then.
                              80 gs1100 16-v ported & polished, 1 mm oversize intake valves, 1150 carbs w/Dynojet stage 3, plus Bandit/gsxr upgrades

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