Runs well but plugs are sooty black. Why? (GS1000 G)

[chuck hahn]

With the tank off you will of course need to supply fuel to the fuel line to do some looking around. This can be done 1 of 2 ways. Make an auxillary fuel tank or run a long line from the bike tank on the bench to the carbs and set the petcock to the PRIme posiition so fuel will flow.

OR you can make the aux tank with simple store shelf items. A universal coolant resevoir from any parts store and a few ft of 1/4 inch fuel line..a small engine shut off valve, and a double ended barbed nipple. Heres the tank I made for less than 15 bucks tops. Assemslbe the parts and just plug into the bikes fuel line. suspend from the handle bars with a cord or some tip ties.

[Vloukole]

I removed the carbs. I tried blowing through the fuel pipe with the carbs upright and it spit fuel on my through the airbox side of the carb. Fuel is also coming out of the 2 vent pipe between carb 1 and 2 , and 3 and 4.

The needle valve is not shutting off.

[Vloukole]

I turn the carbs on its side and fuel came pouring out of the 2 vents.

[Vloukole]

I just held the carbs upside down so the valve would shut and the did. I couldn't get any air through.

[Vloukole]

The carbs are all apart. The choke plungers is still attached. Can I start cleaning it with carb cleaner or do I have to remove them?

[Vloukole]

After I cleaned the carbs and put them back together, I installed them and put everything back, then after all that I forgot to set the idle mixture screw. So now I dont have the time to take the tank off and will only get the chance on friday. What an idiot

[Vloukole]

The great thing is that they did not leak fuel when I started the bike.

[chuck hahn]

Everything must be removed. you have to clean the seats at the bottom of the holes with a Qtip and clean the barrels on the plungers themselves. Dont throw the plungers in the carb dip though...just clean them with a rag and some carb spray stuff.

But first, hold the carbs upright with the bowls off and work the floats up and down and observe what the needles are doing. They should rise and fall smoothly as you move the floats. Also, when the float is hanging all the way down they needles SHOULD NOT pinch up against the hinge area and have a sticky feeling as you raise the floats. I they do, bend the tab that I said was a stop that prevents the floats from falling too low till the needles no longer jam up.

The tab is the one bent at a 90 degree and rests against the float post...remember???

[chuck hahn]

You should be able to squeeze your hand in to adjust the idle....its designed to be able to do this with the tank on. Why would anyone make a bike that noone can get to the idle knob to adjust it......right???? And yes fuel is supposed to come out the vents when you tip them over so thats normal.

And one other thing that can make the floats mess up is the floats themselves rubbing against the bowl gaskets. Its all good now so ... IF ......it starts again I would take the carbs out and trim the gaskets along the sides next to the floats. I know its a pain and you get sick of taking them on and off but its part of the game if your gonna have an old bike. And its part of the price to pay for the experience your gaining.

[chuck hahn]

One thing....again....LOL How clean is the inside of the tank? May have gotten some small debris down the pipe and it was stuck in the needles. You may have to derust and super clean the tank if its of questionable cleanliness. Crap flowing down the fuel tube is a bad thing and it does happen a lot.

[Vloukole]

The tank is not very clean inside. I installed an inline fuel filter to help with it till I can get the right product to clean the tank.

I cant believe that I forgot to set the idle mix screws to 2,5 turns out. I used the idle adjust knob just to get it idling to see if it still leaked. I hope this is the end of my troubles and that my plugs would become a tanned brown after final tuning of the carbs.

[chuck hahn]

Dont forget that youll need the tank off and some sort of aux fuel delivery system to run the bike while doing the final vacuum syncing. Motion Pro sells an aux gravity can that works on the same principle as what I made from auto parts store parts for cheap. Motion Pro one is like 35 bucks I think, so some old backwoods engineering can save you lots of cash and time waiting for things to be ordered and delivered.

And I have ran the same set of plugs for 9 years by cleaning them each spring with my air compressor driven plug cleaner that I got from Harbor freight.....thats a very big savings over time when you consider that youre gonna be fouling up one set doing set up and tuning..then replacing them as miles pile on later. I have 7 bikes so for me its a real saver.


I just use regular old sand blasting pellets as the refill when the initial little packet ran low form spillages

http://www.harborfreight.com/pneumatic-spark-plug-cleaner-32860.html

Youtube video of it working..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WHCmkPBYQU

[chuck hahn]

Go to the top and look at the STICKY titled CV carb tuning procedures before you get too flustered.

[Joe Guilbeau]

Good job Vloukole...if you don't do it right the 1st time, how in the world will you find the time to do it right the 20th time...eh!

[Vloukole]

Thanks I will use the sticky. I would rather buy all the parts and build my own aux tank. I think that Im going to buy a carb sync as well. Any specific brand?