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'79 GS1000 carbs factory set too lean at startup

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    '79 GS1000 carbs factory set too lean at startup

    My '79 GS1000N has been very cold-blooded at startup since I bought it new. It's in the shop for a carb cleanup after sitting for some time. I've read that the 26mm Mikuni VM26SS carbs were modified in 1979 to satisfy EPA requirements. Also, that the '78 bikes had no such lean-at-startup problems. I'd like to know: a.what changes were made for '79; and b. how can I get my carbs like the '78s. Drilling, or any other fix is welcome. Please help; I'm excited about riding again, having spent some time away from the ER

    #2
    You should have VM carbs, heres a rebuild link


    oring kit..1 kit per full rack.


    Bowl and top gaskets are on page 5 or 6..


    Carb section here is the same as your carbs..In fact this entire manual will cover your bike. Note in the emissions regulations part ( think its like section 9 ) youll see that the preemission reg needles and jets have a different style print on them while the emission styled ones have more of a block letter style print. Look at yours and youll know what ones you have.

    Last edited by chuck hahn; 12-06-2014, 07:17 PM.
    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

    Comment


      #3
      And a jet cross reference chart.

      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

      Comment


        #4
        Far as I know the only changes were in the jets and needle tappers. That and how lean they tuned them via the pilot circuit ( bottom screw ). We generally set them about 3/4 to 7/8 out from very gently seated and this will richen them a tad.

        Set the side mixture ( air screws to some ) at 2 out as a start point then adjust from there.
        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

        Comment


          #5
          Scroll down a little to the chart

          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

          Comment


            #6
            Go here and look at all the links and tutorials. On the left side youll CARB SPECS ; CLEANING. theres a good carb theory article...

            MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
            1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

            NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


            I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by vinny27 View Post
              My '79 GS1000N has been very cold-blooded at startup since I bought it new. It's in the shop for a carb cleanup after sitting for some time. I've read that the 26mm Mikuni VM26SS carbs were modified in 1979 to satisfy EPA requirements. Also, that the '78 bikes had no such lean-at-startup problems. I'd like to know: a.what changes were made for '79; and b. how can I get my carbs like the '78s. Drilling, or any other fix is welcome. Please help; I'm excited about riding again, having spent some time away from the ER
              Thanks for the speedy reply. I mean 5 posts in so short a time. ( I wish my isp was that vigilant about service issues.) I see that the font on the jets is different. Thanks. According to the VM26 stock Factory Specs chart, the pilot air screw and the pilot fuel screw are preset at the factory. Is there a more complete chart, one that covers the '78GS1000? That info would really help with the mods I think might really fix the problem.(Since my bike is in the shop now, I'm not even sure if there are even air screws and pilot screws on the '79 California model. BTW, I bought the bike new, so no mods, except a 4 into 1 exhaust, have been made.)
              If there are no screws, can the carb be drilled, and screws installed? If so, I'm guessing I would then use the #15 Pilot Jet (non-italics version.) If the screws are there, I'm guessing they'd be adjusted according to the "VM Carb Rebuild" instructions from Paul Musser, on page 10.
              Am I way out on this?

              Comment


                #8
                There are screws on your carbs. Youve got standard VM26s so the bottom one is the pilot jet..3/4 to 7/8 out from very gently seated. By this we mean you turn them in till they stop..do this slowly and DO NOT force them once they want to stop. When they stop go back out the presribed amount.

                Then on the side of the carb throat just behind the front ( air box side ) lip youll see the mixture screws. 2 out on them to start.
                MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                  There are screws on your carbs. Youve got standard VM26s so the bottom one is the pilot jet..3/4 to 7/8 out from very gently seated. By this we mean you turn them in till they stop..do this slowly and DO NOT force them once they want to stop. When they stop go back out the presribed amount.

                  Then on the side of the carb throat just behind the front ( air box side ) lip youll see the mixture screws. 2 out on them to start.
                  I guess these settings will help approximate the quicker "warm-up" of the '78 model. That's my goal, and to eliminate any stumble off idle. In my last post, I asked about whether to use the "EPA" #15 pilot jets or the non italic version. Does it matter? Would it help to install the older "needle tapers?"

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by vinny27 View Post
                    I guess these settings will help approximate the quicker "warm-up" of the '78 model. That's my goal, and to eliminate any stumble off idle. In my last post, I asked about whether to use the "EPA" #15 pilot jets or the non italic version. Does it matter? Would it help to install the older "needle tapers?"
                    The 78 has 15 pilot jets also

                    The jets are inside the float bowl. The adjustment screws are on the outside

                    The needle taper won't affect idle, but would help off idle

                    You sure the shop knows what they're doing?
                    1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                    1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                    1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                    1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                    1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                    1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                    2007 DRz 400S
                    1999 ATK 490ES
                    1994 DR 350SES

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Also you may need to go up a jet size or two with the 4 into1 pipe you have installed, Installing that and not rejetting will also cause a lean condition
                      1984 GS1100GK newest addition to the heard
                      80 GS 1000gt- most favorite ride love this bike
                      1978 GS1000E- Known as "RoadKill" , Finished :D
                      83 gs750ed- first new purchase
                      85 EX500- vintage track weapon
                      1958Ducati 98 Tourismo
                      “Remember When in doubt use full throttle, It may not improve the situation ,but it will end the suspense ,
                      If it isn't going to make it faster or safer it isn't worth doing

                      Comment


                        #12
                        The only other thing to add that hasn't been mentioned yet is float height. Make sure your float height is correct, if you're not getting enough fuel in the bowl, the other adjustments will help, but not like they should.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Big T View Post
                          The 78 has 15 pilot jets also

                          The jets are inside the float bowl. The adjustment screws are on the outside

                          The needle taper won't affect idle, but would help off idle

                          You sure the shop knows what they're doing?
                          'm asking so many questions of you because I want to make sure the shop does gets it right. And thanks for your concern about that. As for the the pilot jet question: p. 9-3 of the '79 service manual shows the pilot jet as #15 (italicized) and I'm wondering if the pilot jets used in the '78 model (assuming they are different) would help the too-lean problem. And you mentioned "needle tapers;" would installing the '78 needle tapers help. You see, I had a new '78 GS750 and it started up and took off JUST LIKE THAT! I sure would like that for the 1000.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Jets are jets, a #15 is the same regardless of the year

                            What method is the shop using to clean your carbs?

                            Is it anything like the link chuck sent you?

                            If not, take them back and do them yourself

                            A good deep cleaning and a valve adjustment should cure your problem. You can change parts later
                            1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                            1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                            1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                            1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                            1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                            1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                            2007 DRz 400S
                            1999 ATK 490ES
                            1994 DR 350SES

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by vinny27 View Post
                              Please help; I'm excited about riding again, having spent some time away from the ER
                              Working there or as a patient? BTW, ALL of these GS models that were imported into the U.S.A. can benefit from one size increase in their main jets no matter how 100% stock they are.
                              Unless, of course, you only ride at 4,000' and higher elevations. Then, they are spot on.

                              Comment

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