Picked up 2 1982 GS1100's. Running issues

[JTGS850GL]

Agreed. If the feeler gauges wont go through then they're too tight. Tight valves can be a death sentence if not taken care of. Most likely a contributing factor to some of your other issues. Err on the looser side of the spec.

[irishluck]

Well ****, So if the 0.038 gauge wont go through then there to tight?

Well, what do I do now then? I have no idea how to change a shim. Im sure I could figure it out but what size shims do I get?
Where between 0.03-0.08mm should I most likely be close to?

How would these get to tight anyways?
My uncle who I got these bikes from is best friends with the original owner of this bike. He hasn't ever changed anything like this on the bike.

[Nessism]

He hasn't ever changed anything like this on the bike.

There you have it!

[JTGS850GL]

My uncle who I got these bikes from is best friends with the original owner of this bike. He hasn't ever changed anything like this on the bike.

Most likely why the bike is in this condition to start with.

First, let's start off with which model GS1100 you have. Do they have round or rectangular valve cover end caps?

[irishluck]

Soooo assuming thats bad? lol
Do the shims wear?

How do I know what size I need and what should I really set it to?

Wow, shims are kinda expensive.
$6 each about $48 for all 8

[JJ]

A good valve adjustment is the very FIRST step tuning up a GS. Please take the time and do it right. If you can't afford to buy (or borrow, beg, or steal) the right tools and parts to do it right, then you can't afford to own one. There is a shim club here that allows a person to cut costs immensely. Do a "search" for it.

[irishluck]

Alright Ill look it up.
I just went ahead and bought the tool off ebay for like $10 to remove the shims.

I just need to know what is a good range that I should have it set to.

[bellucci]

If this is a 16 valve engine, there are no shims. You measure clearance and adjust with a screw and lock nut on the rocker arm... Download a shop manual and it will outline the procedure. If you do get to the point that you are going to tackle it, make sure the motor is cold as in left in the garage all night... You also might let us know where you live. Members have been know to help each other out when learning...
Curt

[JTGS850GL]

Again, tell us what year/model 1100 you have. Do you have round or rectangular valve cover end caps. These are the 2 chrome pieces on each end of the valve cover. That could make a huge difference in what is needed to do the valve adjustment.

[Nessism]

It's a shim bike.

You need to remove each shim one at a time, write down the number (or measure), then put the shim back in. Never turn over an engine with a shim removed.

Once you have an inventory of all the various shims you currently have, then you need to place an order so you have enough to move each valve two shims thinner. As the valve train parts wear the clearance goes down, not up. Eventually the wear caused the valves to hang open and burn. Damaging both the head and valve.

With a little luck you can move some shims around in the engine so you won't need to purchase two for each valve.

[irishluck]

No problem. 1982. The service manual I have for this says gs1100G. I have the round chrome caps on the ends.
The manual says it needs to be between 0.03-0.08 and the smallest feeler gauge I have is 0.038 which wont fit under any.

[irishluck]

To update some other post I read, the bike is in a cold garage and I'm in KCMO.
The bike is not a 16v. And I cant pull shims out yet until I receive my tool which will be next week =/

I will end up doing a full shim job to get this job done properly. I've got about a month and a half to get this bike fully running as riding season is on its way!

[JTGS850GL]

Great. You might want to pick up a thin shim. Something in the order of 2.4mm to use as a base to see what size shim is going to be needed on the really tight valves. Since you can't get a feeler gauge in there you can't tell how much thinner you need to go. You could guess and say to sizes down, but it would only be a guess. By using the thin shim you'll have some extra space to measure the gap and calculate what will be needed to get it in spec. It will also allow you to shuffle the shims around by giving you a shim to put in place while you rotate the cams around. Once you've gone through and inventoried all your shims, you'll be able to determine which shims can be moved to another location and which shims will need to be purchased. If you don't already have one, you might want to consider picking up an inexpensive set of digital calipers. Harbor Freight sells them for cheap. If anyone placed the shim upside down or the shim markings can't be read, you'll have a way to identify what the shim thickness is.

If you plan on riding a GS for any period of time, these are essential tools and will be used for years to come.

[irishluck]

Well for the plans I have for this bike, I plan on keeping it for a while. Plan on doing a full custom job on the bike.

I already have a list of parts put together with my supplier that is going to be ordered to do a complete tuneup on the bike as well.
Im rebuilding or replacing the petcock, steering bearing, fork seals, handlebars, pod filters, shocks and all the oils and fuel line.

Ill try and get some of the 2.4mm shims. But when I start changing out the shims where is the ideal spot I want to be in?
Book says between 0.03mm to 0.08mm. Do i want to try and be at 0.05mm? or 0.06mm?

Oh and I have 2 calipers already so Im good to go there!

[JTGS850GL]

Err on the looser side. Another words closer to the .08mm mark. Many on here will go as loose as .1mm. Engines sound a little like a clickity sewing machine but run better and longer that way.