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Rebuilt carbs leaking like a sieve

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    Rebuilt carbs leaking like a sieve

    These carbs have been months in the making. Im about to roll this bike from a cliff. 1980 Gs750L...quite certain its all original.

    The first rebuild I stripped them completely and dipped in the Yamalube carb stuff for 24 hours then boiled for 15 minutes. Put everything back together with new bowl gaskets (aftermarket light-colored ones) and fresh o-rings for the following:
    needle valve seats
    fuel interconnect fittings
    breather hose fittings
    drain plugs

    Also new were intake boots and clamps, PCV tube and hoses.
    The bike refused to start...BUT the carbs did not leak...at all.


    I tore into the carbs again and realized I forgot to remove the pilot jets from the bodies. 2 were clogged...I cleaned them all and replaced the rubber caps as well.

    This time I got massive fuel leaking from the carbs...I got not for the life of me tell where it was coming from...it was dripping from all over the place...the connecting plates were wet and it was impossible to see the source.


    I figured bad needle valves or improper float height. I ordered replacement needles and reset the floats. This time it leaked worse. From the the breather hoses as well as the previous areas..but the bike ran!!! It actually started and ran with no choke, although the idle was steadily climbing and I turned it off when it hit 4000.

    I am not sure how to proceed...do I need to replace the bowl gaskets everytime I remove them? How could they leak like this?
    Last edited by Guest; 02-16-2015, 11:09 PM.

    #2
    Well since you dont tell us what bike it is....The only "CLUE" is that you mention valve seat orings so you must have CV carbs. Heres the turutorial. Be sure to use new pilot jet rubber plugs so they seal tight or they will leak too mush fuel via the pilot jet circuits.

    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

    Comment


      #3
      Maybe find a manual here.

      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

      Comment


        #4
        One other thought..IF, by chance, you used pliers to pull the seats out you stand a good chance of squishing the holes out of round...thus the float needles jam up and wont shut off / allow fuel flow. either way its a bad thing to squeeze the seats. Good news is that new seats are available here. Scroll around and youll find them on one of these pages.

        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

        Comment


          #5
          You don't need to replace the bowl gaskets unless they are torn or come off in pieces. I re-use mine several times. Did you measure the float hight (22.4mm +/- 1mm IIRC) WITHOUT the gaskets in place?

          Aftermarket gaskets - any chance the floats are hanging up on these gaskets?

          If you haven't already, check out Nessism's carb tutorial. Very worthwhile, especially the part near the end where he illustrates putting the carbs in a vise and checking full height in the bowl with a drilled out drain bolt.
          ----------------------------------------------------------------
          2014 BMW F800GSA | 1981 GS850GX | 1982 GS750T (now the son-in-laws) | 1983 GS750ES | 1983 Honda V45 Magna (needs some love) | 1980 Yamaha GT80 and LB80 "Chappy" | 1973 and 1975 Honda XL250 projects

          Comment


            #6
            That tutorial is awesome!!!

            Comment


              #7
              Yes it is! Thanks to Ed for making it.

              Here's the other (older) one that has some helpful tips in it too, I like that page about 2/3rds of the way in where it shows all of the components "exploded" and the wire bristle in the match is a great trick too.
              ----------------------------------------------------------------
              2014 BMW F800GSA | 1981 GS850GX | 1982 GS750T (now the son-in-laws) | 1983 GS750ES | 1983 Honda V45 Magna (needs some love) | 1980 Yamaha GT80 and LB80 "Chappy" | 1973 and 1975 Honda XL250 projects

              Comment


                #8
                You really ought to be able to see where the fuel is coming from. Otherwise you are simply guessing as to the cause. On these carbs there are probably 10 reasons (although I can only think of 6 right now) for them to leak.

                You do have the the hoses correctly fitted to the right place - don't you?

                Drain the bowls, dry everything up, replace bowl plugs. Take the bike outside. Take the seat off (may help you see the middle carbs a little easier). Get a helper to look on one side and you look on the other side. Both of you have torches to look into the dark areas. Open petcock to prime and see where it comes out. You have to be able to see where it's coming from.

                When searching for oil leaks I think some people spray the suspected engine parts with talcum powder. This immediately turns dark when it gets wet. You could try this trick on the carbs too.

                Greetings
                Richard
                sigpic
                GS1150 EF bought Jun 2015
                GS1150 ES bought Mar 2014: ES Makeover Thread AND blog: Go to the Blog
                GS1100 G (2) bought Aug 2013: Road Runner Project Thread AND blog: Go to the Blog
                GS1100 G (1) Dad bought new 1985 (in rebuild) see: Dad's GS1100 G Rebuild AND blog: Go to the Blog
                Previously owned: Suzuki GS750 EF (Canada), Suzuki GS750 (UK)(Avatar circa 1977), Yamaha XT500, Suzuki T500, Honda XL125, Garelli 50
                Join the United Kingdom (UK) Suzuki GS Facebook Group here

                Comment


                  #9
                  Tap on the bowls to seat the float needle.
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I have been very thorough in checking the carbs the second time around and did take some cues for the guide while doing so - this is not my first rodeo, however...I've rebuilt a number of sets from different bikes.

                    I did indeed try tapping on the floats.

                    I simply cant see where theyre leaking. The bike is completely bare (no tank, no seat) and I am fuellign with a temporay container. I was pouring gas in and shining a maglite while they leaked and could not locate the source.

                    Is there a way to test for leaks with the carbs out? Do I have to use gasoline or is there a less toxic option?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Test them on a bench, I see no difference if they are in the bike or otherwise, just make sure they are level, and hook up your lines, if the floats are working and the valve seats are seating then you should have no leaking

                      Comment


                        #12
                        If they're leaking as badly as you say, I see no reason that putting them up on the bench and testing with plain old water wouldn't work.

                        It's probably something silly. You'll find it.
                        Charles
                        --
                        1979 Suzuki GS850G

                        Read BassCliff's GSR Greeting and Mega-Welcome!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          This may seem silly, but are you sure you're connecting the fuel to the fuel inlet and not one of the vent lines? It's been done before. Don't ask me how I know...
                          http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
                          1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
                          1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
                          1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

                          Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

                          JTGS850GL aka Julius

                          GS Resource Greetings

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Fuel intake connected to middle nipple and vents on either side. Have not changed arrangement of these.

                            I will be pulling the carbs...again...to bench test.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Carbs leaking from the circled ports. They leak here first then from the vent hoses.

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