Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

exhaust studs install question

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    exhaust studs install question

    Yo!

    I did search for this but didn't see any posts that answered this question directly

    I'm about to install stainless steel studs in place of exhaust bolts. Do I use thread lock on them and if so, what color?

    Any other installation tips?
    Charles
    --
    1979 Suzuki GS850G

    Read BassCliff's GSR Greeting and Mega-Welcome!

    #2
    I can only tell you what I did with mine..
    I didn't bother with threadlock, as my supposition was the heat will degrade it quickly anyway, so pointless. Given that, once the studs are in place and the exhaust clamped down, there shouldn't be any movement. I had come across some fairly convincing figures that the split retainiing washers were a waste of time, but I used one on each stud, under the nut, anyway, just to be a little cautious. At some point I'll be replacing the ordinary nuts with brass ones, but so far after several months of use, none of them have loosened off. The brass nuts don't need split washers anyway, so when I replace the nuts I'll see how they go without them.
    For the stainless stud to m/s nuts I used a smear of copaslip to avoid heat-promoted corrosion, but whether it would really have been an issue, I can't say. Perhaps I should have done one or two without, as controls
    ---- Dave

    Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks for the info. I have all stainless steel hardware: studs, nuts, and split washers. I don't know how useful the washers will be either, but I have some extra length to work with and I don't see how they can hurt.

      I thought I read somewhere that a few of these exhaust bolt holes are just a hair away from oil galleries and it's not hard to punch straight into them. So just bottoming them out in the threads is a no-no? This was the main thing prompting my original question: How to fix the studs in place while the nuts are torqued down without transferring the torque to the bottom of the stud hole.

      My studs have no handy allen wrench hole set into them, but I could grind a square onto the end for a backing wrench if needed. Will just take some time with eight of 'em to do...
      Charles
      --
      1979 Suzuki GS850G

      Read BassCliff's GSR Greeting and Mega-Welcome!

      Comment


        #4
        Anti-seize is critical with stainless hardware. Particularly on parts that get hot.

        I'd do the grind a flat trick or get some studs with the allen head key hole in them.
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

        Comment


          #5
          Make sure you use the copper anti seize and not the aluminum. The copper is designed for higher temps.


          I've used these on mine and they work great.:



          May not be the best price but the buyer does accept less for the studs so try the "Make Offer".
          http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
          1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
          1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
          1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

          Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

          JTGS850GL aka Julius

          GS Resource Greetings

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Nessism View Post
            Anti-seize is critical with stainless hardware. Particularly on parts that get hot.

            I'd do the grind a flat trick or get some studs with the allen head key hole in them.
            Alright, that's probably what I'll do. Me and my unbalanced Horrible Freight grinder will have some quality time together this weekend...

            Originally posted by JTGS850GL View Post
            Make sure you use the copper anti seize and not the aluminum. The copper is designed for higher temps.


            I've used these on mine and they work great.:



            May not be the best price but the buyer does accept less for the studs so try the "Make Offer".
            I have a jar of good copper antiseize that I use liberally everywhere on the bike and sometimes on my bagels with coffee in the morning.

            Those look like nice hardware but "Not the best price" wowee, quite an understatement. I already have everything I need, though, thanks for the link.
            Charles
            --
            1979 Suzuki GS850G

            Read BassCliff's GSR Greeting and Mega-Welcome!

            Comment


              #7
              Like I said, he takes less for them. The last time I picked some up it was like $1.40 each. I love the ability to use a hex wrench to install them.
              http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
              1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
              1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
              1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)

              Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)

              JTGS850GL aka Julius

              GS Resource Greetings

              Comment


                #8
                I went and got 35 MM long set screws. Used an allen to install them. be sure that you dont bottom them out and then wrench them in to tighten them. There are oil gallies that run behind some of the holes and you pierce one and your looking for a head.

                take something and stick it to the bottom of the hole and make a mark. Transfer that depth to the studs and put tape around the studs. Stop just BEFORE they hit the tape line. There are super high heat thread lockers out there and use then highest temp one you can find. Once the collars are on and the nuts tightened you should be all set.
                MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                Comment

                Working...
                X