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Stalling at Idle does not restart

  • Thread starter Thread starter curtie94
  • Start date Start date
Sure enough.

The bike fired right up so I stated heating the condensers and it stalled within 20-30 seconds and wouldn't restart.
 
All we need is a couple of 50f days and the snow will be gone.
 
You've found the fault, then.
A fairly good way of cold-checking the condenser is manually turn the engine over so the first set of points are closed, then switch the ignition on and quickly open the points with the blade of a screwdriver. If the condenser is in good condition, you will barely see a spark across the gap, if it's on the way out, you will see a quite visible spark, and if it's totally goosed, the spark will be very obvious.
Repeat for the other set of points.
 
well I just installed the new condenser and points. same thing. still stalling on me.

I checked hot compression again and still the same 130psi. across the board.

I then checked for spark and I noticed I had a weak spark on every Cylinder. I checked with a new plug and I got a nice strong health spark.


Could it be so simple? Could fouled plugs really be the whole problem?

Can a fouled plug spark better when cold?

I guess Ill get new plugs and go form there. Would it help to get a hotter plug? I'm running NGK B8ES's right now
 
Should run fine with the B8ES plugs. No reason to run hotter. If the B8ES's aren't working then something else is wrong.
 
When you run a cold plug all that means is the ceramic tip doesn't retain a lot of heat to burn off residue as where a hotter plug well retain more heat to burn more of it off. Colder spark plugs are not that good for general street riding as stated by NGK they could foul much easier. They are more useful for high rpm track racing etc.
 
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Are your ignition coils stock suzuki? (Since PO changed over to points). Have you ohm them - probably like 4 ohms primary?
 
I believe the coils are stock suzuki.

I just checked and they are 4ohm coils.

Could that be the issue?
 
No, that's fine but recheck the connections from coils to points/condensers. Your spark should not get weak after some running.
 
how about float level? Just wondering if that could be a problem?
 
I checked and the connections are good.

I also checked the resistance through the coils after it stalled. I got 5.5ohms from 1-4coil. 7.5ohms from 2-3coil.

are these numbers still good?

I hard wired the coils to points. crimp and solder.
 
Those hot resistance readings on coil primary make make no sense to me. It's just a bunch of copper windings , the resistance should not change that much (especially the coil going from from 4 to 7.5 ohms). But I've never checked them hot.
 
As I watch the snowfall, I tested one of my spare 4 ohm suzuki coils. I fed 12.5 volts across primary and let it sit for 15 minutes- the hot resistance went up to 6 ohms. So , I guess yours are normal.
 
Have you checked the resistance in your plug wire caps,to see if they are all in spec?
I don't have the specs right off hand,but if it was originally electronic ignition,it will have resistance caps on the wires,I have seen them go bad.
 
I have installed new caps.

It still sparks even after it stalls through.

I wonder if it could still be carbs?
 
might be a silly question but has the gas cap vent been checked and cleaned
 
I have run it with the gas cap off as well. no luck.

I'm going to be getting a parts bike given to me so maybe ill be able to swap some parts.

I'm running out of ideas, unless I'm flooding the engine out which if it was doing that, what would cause it?

Im only saying that maybe it is flooding because the plugs are black after it runs for a while. and when I was syncing the carbs i noticed fuel in the lines of a couple carbs.

what could cause it to flood at idle?
 
If you have fuel in the vacuum sync lines the you do have a fuel problem. Most likely cause is leaking float valves. Probable issues would be either a stuck float or a leaking float valve. Check float height and make sure the float bowl gasket is not causing the float to hang up. If that's not an issue then replace the float valve assembly. I'd try to pick up or make a fluid float level have. Basically a screw that goes into the float bowl drain hole that allows a clear tube to be connected. Loop the clear tubing up above the carbs and see where the fluid level is in the bowl. If you see the fluid level continue to rise above the setting then you have a leaking float valve.

I can see where several leaking valves can cause the engine to cut out during idle if the floats are leaking bad enough. On a plus side it seems like your petcock is in working order. Otherwise you'd be seeing gas on the floor or in your oil.
 
Yes, must be real leaky needle seats (or the "choke "system is on or leaky) to get black plugs after some idling causing stall out.Remove tank and try some clear vinyl tubing to feed the fuel T and see how fast level drops as it idles.But it seems a stretch to think all 4 seats have failed.
 
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