Carb removal and reattach for 1st gen 16 valve 750

[Guest]

Several times a year someone is having problems with this.
My hopes with this thread is to save some typing with all the info needed in one easy link.
Feel free to add any corrections to this and I shall endeavor to update through edit function the second post.
Any other tricks, methods and info is warmly welcomed.
Any links to problems and solutions recommended would be a nice add on also.
If you do post suggestions please edit your 1st post as compared to multiple posts to try and keep this thread clean and to the point.
You may also PM me with suggestions and I will add as soon as I can.

Eil, Eli69, and mrbill5491 I know have much incite into this and I am looking forward to your input.

[Crankthat]

This is what I do to get the carbs/airbox/filter housing in the correct placement.

Remove the filter housing.

Attach the airbox to frame bolts to where they will just hold onto the airbox. (this will give you a bit of room to slide airbox around without the aggravation of trying to get the bolts back in when everything else is proper and tight)
[IMG][/IMG]

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Use a object to hold the carbs up level to bike for attaching the choke and throttle cables. (the right side works best and you want your carb stand high enough to hold the carbs up with cables attached so you can take a breather without having to hang the carbs off the cables)
A upside down bucket works well.

Attach the choke and carb cables being sure the carbs will insert into airbox without twisting the cables.

Slide carbs into correct area while insuring the clutch cable is gently positioned into bracket on side of carbs for it. (the clutch cable will hang them up otherwise)

Slide carbs onto airbox boots and tighten clamps while making sure the boots are positioned correctly on carbs.

Is good to note as far as I know the part fiches have the wrong part # for these.
This is the correct # 13881-45450

You may have warp-age in this area on your airbox.

Boots at head.
You do not have the o-ring as found on 8 valve models.

Start with the two innermost boots and push smallest area of boot into largest gap between carbs and head and twist back and forth to seat them.

Temporarily reattach the filter housing to the airbox and position the two seated boots by twisting them to level out and correctly position the filter housing.

Remove the filter housing again.

Mark the top center on the two boots with a paint marker or a piece of tape.( They will be offset from each other,make sure the area is clean first and the paint drys well before next stage)

Put the two remaining boots on using the same method. (the marks on the other boots are in case you have to move them to get the two outside boots into position)

Make sure the boots are all seated correctly and not causing each other to bind at all.

Tighten clamps. (be sure to position screws on clamps to where they will not interact with the throttle or choke)

Tighten the airbox to frame bolts if you have them.


If the carbs are presently attached to the bike and you are about to remove them I recommend you do this first.

As far as I can discern each boot from carb to head is slightly different from the others.
Make sure you mark with corresponding cylinder #.

Completely remove the airbox bolts from frame and look to judge how much drop the attach point for bolts is.
Remove two outside head to carb boots.
Twist two inside boots until the drop as mentioned above is barley noticeable.
Clean the tops of two attached boots and mark top center with paint marker or the likes.
This will make install a bit easier as you now know where they should be positioned.

[eil]

Makes sense to me! Thanks for the write-up. Only thing I can think of is to scale the images down to 800x600 or so and drop them inline with the text. (I'd explain how to do that but I don't have a photobucket account...)

[sharpy]

Good tutorial. But when i do any carb work/installs i leave most engine bolts out and just pivot the the engine on the bolts under the alternator and points cover. Just use a screwdriver in the rear lower engine hole to hold the engine tilted far enough to slide carbs in with all rubber boots installed. Works great on 4 into one exhausts with rear mount loose/removed.

And yes have to loosen chain and adjusters. Even with engine installed it dont take much time to do this and saves pushing and shoving rubbers everywhere.