83' GS750T Only runs on choke. Now what?

[Guest]

Hi,

Everything is together, Carbs fully dipped and cleaned and rebuilt per the extraordinary instructions on this site. Planning on synching them as soon as my brass adapters come in(I bought the wrong size first-6mm instead of 5mm /sad)

Question though on the synching:
I have the carbtune pro and have read there's one carb you adjust to, is that right? Does that mean there is one that I don't adjust?

Want to make sure I do this right, it's almost riding weather. This's my first bike -and I now have a garage to work on the thing- but I'd prefer to not have to un**** it as much as possible.

thanks!

[Nessism]

There are three adjusters: between 1-2, 2-3, 3-4.

First step is to level 2-3. Then you tweak 1-2 & 3-4, in no particular order, to match 2/3.

[JTGS850GL]

Yes, just remember that carb #3 is the master. All the others need to be synced with it. The order the Nessism stated is the correct order. First set the idle to around 2k then sync 2 to 3 with the engine warm. That sets the inside carbs equal. After that you sync each of the outer carbs to the inside carbs. Expect to have to do a little back and forth with the carbs to fine tune near the end. The RPMs may vary as you do the sync as well. If the RPM gets too high or low then adjust as needed. When tightening down the lock nut remember to keep the screw in place as to not change the adjustment. Motion pro makes a nice tool that helps with that. To adjust carb #2 you usually have to remove the choke to linkage to gain clear access to the screw and nut.

Good luck

[ennuii]

I have the spiffy screwdriver within a tube socket thing. That tool is pretty cool.

The info you two just gave me was exactly what I was looking for! Thanks!

Now to wait for the mail to move. I can't find a 'zuki parts place within 100 miles that has a set of these adapters =/ It's so nice outside (heh 42 degrees in RI)

[Steve]

Others have already given the spefics, I will give you the principle, might make it easier to remember.

You are not adjusting a carb, you adjusting the relationship between two (or more) carbs when you turn that screw.

For some reason, on the 4-cylinder GSes with CV-type carbs, Suzuki recommended setting the vacuum on the outer carbs about "half a ball" higher. Yeah, that only makes sense if you have an official Suzuki gauge, so I compared the Suzuki gauge to my Mercury gauge. Turns out that "half a ball" is about 2cm of Mercury. Before seeing the recommendation for that setting, I had always set them level, and never had any problem. I had also never seen the recommendation to set the idle to about 2000 RPM (actually, the book says "1500-2000"), I figure that is just to minimize the bounce in the gauges. I have always done my sync at about 1200 RPM and enjoy the smooth idle.

Now to wait for the mail to move. I can't find a 'zuki parts place within 100 miles that has a set of these adapters =/ It's so nice outside (heh 42 degrees in RI)

Why bother with a " 'zuki parts place" when you have Z1 at your fingertips?

Especially with your location, it's almost quicker to order from them than it would be to drive the 100 miles to your "dealer"..
It would certainly be cheaper.

.

[78550GS]

Why bother with a " 'zuki parts place" when you have Z1 at your fingertips?

Especially with your location, it's almost quicker to order from them than it would be to drive the 100 miles to your "dealer"..
It would certainly be cheaper.

.

+1 I got parts from Z1 in 2 days. Just saying....

[eil]

I just used the Z1 adapters for the first time on my 850. They work, but I would recommend a flat washer behind the o-ring on each adapter so that the o-ring does not slide up around the nut when you tighten the tube. (Otherwise, you can't even get them finger right without losing the seal and introducing a lean condition. Not mention inaccurate readings.)

[Nessism]

You can make your adapters easily. Drill a hole in the end of a small allen head screw, then JB Weld some pieces of brass tubing in the allen socket. You can accelerate the cure of the epoxy using heat.

[ennuii]

I order plenty from z1- they're awesome! Their phone staff rocks as well. This weekend though I couldn't get their site to work. I was stuck in a redirect loop and couldn't get to the actual bikes of the same year on my phone. It's still borked . I was traveling, and couldn't hit up my computer. On top of that there was a holiday. Murphy's law and all.

I just got some on prime with quick shipping. They'll be here soon. (Just not soon enough.)

Besides, who doesn't like window shopping?

@Steve. Thanks for the info! That actually makes it easier to understand.

Tonnes of good stuff in this thread for my next couple days. Just hoping it works.

[ennuii]

Everything's Together yay.

Tried to start it up, it almost went and stopped.. I waiTed a minute and tried again, and absolutely nothing. It didn't even try to turn over.

Battery charger shows charged, but the start button does nothing now. I don't know what could be broken. It was working one minute and then just quit?

Lights horn blinkers work.

[gustovh]

Check your fuses, make sure the kill switch is on run, check connections.

V

[ennuii]

Check clutch is all the way in... I'm slow sometimes hahahaha

It runs! Idles at 4k. But sounds good. So. Damn. Happy.

Can't wait until tomorrow to tinker.

[ennuii]

Ok. So. It kind of runs. It refuses to run without the choke all the way open, and either sits at 4k rpm or idles erratically and dies.

Halp.

As before. Whole rebuild with carbs and every non rubber part in berrymans for over 24 hours (The things looked rather well cared for before that too). New air filter. no gas tank on. Running it in from an IV of sorts.

[ennuii]

Sealed everything up and started it up. Let it idle with like 3/4 choke and idling at like 3k.

Sprayed all intake manifold and air box manifold with starter fluid, no change in idle.

Don't think it's a leak there. I know the insides of the carbs are clean. Still only starts with choke open-if at all with wide open choke. Then shoots to 4k rpm.

Don't know what to do now. Maybe blow 100$ on new manifolds just in case? Bike bandit had them for 20$, but looks like they only have one side. Does that matter?

[eil]

3k isn't idling, 1k is idling...

If you push in the choke once it's warmed up for a minute or two, it just dies, correct? If so, that means the engine is running massively lean somehow. There are many things that can cause this, the only way to find it is by being methodical and using the process of elimination. These are some of the things that can cause a lean condition, but there may be others or multiple causes:

* dirty carb jets, especially the pilot jet and emulsion tube
* incorrect jets
* leaking carb boots
* leaking or missing air box (pods?)
* missing air filter
* aftermarket exhaust with no baffle
* etc

This shouldn't matter but what happens when you play with the idle adjust knob while it's running? Maybe it will offer a clue. It's too bad you're in RI, this is one I wish I could help solve in person.