Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
GS750 Throttle Cable Install / Adjustment
Collapse
X
-
GS750 Throttle Cable Install / Adjustment
I have used the search function and also looked through the service manual, owner's manual, and mikuni manual, but have had no luck getting a clear answer on how the throttle cables (push-pull) attach at the carb. The pictures below are of the old cables as I found them when I went to replace them with NOS cables last night. I'm not sure if either of these scenarios is correct and I'm looking for some assistance. Would someone please chime in on how these are supposed to hook up? Also, a brief overview on adjusting them would be tremendously helpful. I've been told to start the new cables at the bars and have them 'fully adjusted' for no slack or play, then go down to the carbs and take the slack out of the cables there, then go back and fine tune at the bars. Is this correct procedure? Anyone care to elaborate? Thanks in advance for all your help.
Tags: None
-
Picture not working.http://img633.imageshack.us/img633/811/douMvs.jpg
1980 GS1000GT (Daily rider with a 1983 1100G engine)
1998 Honda ST1100 (Daily long distance rider)
1982 GS850GLZ (Daily rider when the weather is crap)
Darn, with so many daily riders it's hard to decide which one to jump on next.;)
JTGS850GL aka Julius
GS Resource Greetings
-
Gbrown
Really? It's displaying on my browser... I'll try attaching it again here.Attached Files
Comment
-
Gbrown
-
Picture showed up, cables look OK there.
It does not make a lot of difference whether you start routing the cable from the handlebar or the carbs, but start adjusting at the handlebars. Put in as MUCH slack as you can. Go to the carbs, adjust to get MOST of the slack out, lock the cables in place. Finally, go back to the handlebars, fine-tune the slack to take out as much as you can, but check the adjustment by turning the bars to both sides, all the way to the stops. If the engine speeds up, give it just a bit more slack. Start with the Throttle OPEN cable. When that is done, adjust the Throttle OFF cable, making sure it has a bit of slack at all times. It doesn't usually do anything, it's there as a safety measure.
.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
Comment
-
Gbrown
Originally posted by Steve View PostPicture showed up, cables look OK there.
It does not make a lot of difference whether you start routing the cable from the handlebar or the carbs, but start adjusting at the handlebars. Put in as MUCH slack as you can. Go to the carbs, adjust to get MOST of the slack out, lock the cables in place. Finally, go back to the handlebars, fine-tune the slack to take out as much as you can, but check the adjustment by turning the bars to both sides, all the way to the stops. If the engine speeds up, give it just a bit more slack. Start with the Throttle OPEN cable. When that is done, adjust the Throttle OFF cable, making sure it has a bit of slack at all times. It doesn't usually do anything, it's there as a safety measure.
.
.
Comment
-
Yep, one above, the other below is the proper way.
That way, you can tighten them against the bracket and hold everything in place.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
Mom's first ride
Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)
Comment
-
Gbrown
Got it together and rode around last night for the first time in 2 weeks. Man it felt great to have knees in the breeze! I didn't do any fine tuning yet so there's a bit of 'play' at the handle, but I'll sort that out soon enough. Thanks for the input.
Comment
-
tweebs
I had a really hard time getting the throttle cable into the carb throttle linkage. There just wasn't enough room between the boot and the linkage to get the cable in sideways. I tried holding the carb throttle linkage open on one side so the connection was easier to see from the top and using needle nose plyier to get the "ball/cylindar" on the end of the cable in it's hole. Eventually I pulled the carbs out of the boots so I had a little more room. There must be a trick to this.
Comment
-
Gbrown
Originally posted by tweebs View PostI had a really hard time getting the throttle cable into the carb throttle linkage. There just wasn't enough room between the boot and the linkage to get the cable in sideways. I tried holding the carb throttle linkage open on one side so the connection was easier to see from the top and using needle nose plyier to get the "ball/cylindar" on the end of the cable in it's hole. Eventually I pulled the carbs out of the boots so I had a little more room. There must be a trick to this.
Comment
-
Wade_
Just found this thread, thankfully. Can somebody advise on which of those in the picture is the push and which is the pull? Or, which is the roll on and which is the roll off side?
I found on another site, one wrote, "The pull cable is the one that does most of the work - it is the cable that is under tension when you open the throttle, against the spring that is trying to snap it shut." If that's correct, I should be able to figure it out, I suppose.Last edited by Guest; 07-24-2017, 08:02 PM.
Comment
-
Wade_
And.... Disregard, I figured it out. What was helping to throw me off was the third hook up, and I couldn't figure out what it was for. Turns out it was the choke cable, so all is well.
Comment
Comment