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Accelerating bogs down after exhaust wrap?

  • Thread starter Thread starter claygs750e
  • Start date Start date
C

claygs750e

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Ok, I know it sounds stupid and I know most people don't like the wrap look, but could this cause a problem with acceleration? Shortly before putting the bike up last winter I took my pesky carbs to cycle-recycle to have Rob do a complete rebuild and it ran perfect for 2 months before draining the carbs and storing the bike. All I did this spring so far was replace the valve cover gasket (small drip), wrap the pipes, oil change, fresh gas and started it up. When sitting still idle it sounds great and doesn't die. When I take off and twist the throttle it only slowly speeds up in all gears and bogs down a lot and tries to stall when stopping. Something is definitely wrong, but I removed the carbs, disassembled, blew out all holes and everything looks spotless. Do I need to re-sync the carbs because of the wrap? Could this just be coincidence? That is the only thing that changed besides replacing a valve cover gasket.

Thanks
 
I vote for coincidence with exhaust wrap. I'd recheck float heights, make sure float needle seats didn't dry out ( and are
leaking or stuck). Of course, check petcock operation.
 
Nothing to do directly with the exhaust wrap. Might be something you did during the maintenance. Is it firing on all 4 cylinders? Might be a coil that got disconnected.
 
I agree, it's not the wrap. My vote would be for the "drain for the winter" part of your routine. :-k

I have always treated the gas (a double dose, actually) with good results.

Unless you took the rack of carbs apart when you wrapped your exhaust pipes, there is nothing in the process of wrapping the pipes that would affect carb sync.

I could show you a set of carbs that are "SPOTLESS" inside that won't pass a single drop of gas, let alone enough for the engine to run. The parts that NEED to be CLEAN can not be seen, so you can't tell by looking.

.
 
OK, so I broke down each carb body again, but kept all the bodies attached to each other. I ran through the CV rebuild tutorial on BikeCliff's site and sprayed in each hole recommended and everything looks great and clear. I really don't want to adjust the floats since Rob from cycle recycle adjusted them last and I trust his work and the bike rode great before putting it up last winter. Is there anything else I should look at before reassemble?
 
If you don't want to adjust the floats or take the rack apart, you might just be resigned to living with what you have. :oops:

Sorry, but if you are not willing to do it right, whether you do it yourself or send them out and have them done right, that's the way I feel.


Unless Rob from Cycle Re-Cycle did the carbs within the last month, there is a decent chance that some of his excellent work might have been sabotaged by improper winterizing, then some lazy attempts to "fix" the problem.

Either take the carbs back to Rob for a freshening-up or send them to one of us here on the forum that do them regularly.

.
 
Or the tape is just too tight...........
Try redoing them and do a bunny ear knot
 
Ok so I broke the carbs, cab bodies down completely, cleaned and verified all holes are clear. Everything looked very very clean. Put everything back together and took it for a ride and I'm still having the problem. It's definitely better in the higher gears, but lower gear response it bad. Any other ideas I can check? Also, when I had the valve cover off I checked all the values and all were within specification. The carb boots also look to be in good condition. New plugs are within gapped per spec as well. If there is a vacuum leak where would I check?
 
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What did the orings behind the carb boots look like? Do you know when they were last replaced as that is one cause?
 
Your idle circuits are the ones you need to run in low throttle settings and the ones that get gummed up easily (and are hardest to verify their cleanliness). Things might improve with some running, so if you can live with its behavior now, try putting some fuel cleaner in tank. Find some good long downhills, get up to 50, shut throttle and maybe the engine braking will suck a little harder on the idle circuits passages with throttle closed.
 
Went for a long ride today and what you said might be true, the more I drive it it seems to be getting better. Still doesn't feel right through...I will give it a week of riding it and see if it helps clear it up. WHat type of fuel cleaner do you guys recommend?
 
claygs750e said:
WHat type of fuel cleaner do you guys recommend?
Click to expand...
The best "cleaner" does not clean the fuel, it cleans the CARBS. :-\\\

Yes, the BEST way to fix your 'problem' is to do a full strip-and-dip rebuild, then you won't have to worry about adding chemicals to the fuel and making constant adjustments as things change.

.
 
Well, technically the fuel cleaner cleans out the old fuel deposits. He said his carbs only sat for a couple of months, he might get lucky and it's worth a shot as long as his riding safety is not compromised as he clings to this glimmer of hope.
 
Have you checked the points? Not sure if it's running them, but maybe your not firing the fuel in the first place. Air fuel spark and such.
 
tom203 said:
Well, technically the fuel cleaner cleans out the old fuel deposits. He said his carbs only sat for a couple of months, he might get lucky and it's worth a shot as long as his riding safety is not compromised as he clings to this glimmer of hope.
Click to expand...

The point Steve was trying to make is, it's not fuel cleaner, it's CARBURETOR cleaner...:)
 
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