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Hey Guys,
I'm back again. I guess I don't log in enough to not get deactivated. Any hoo.
I have a 1978 Suzuki GS750 that I did a full engine rebuild and some custom work to (I'll post a pic soon), and I am having some difficulties with my idling.
Changes to the air / fuel system are individual pod filters (EMGO), as well as EMGO shorty reverse cones on the 4-2 exhaust system.
The stock VM carbs have been cleaned and rebuilt with cycle o-rings...o-rings, and are currently running stock sizes of jets and what nots, however the needles have been raised one notch.
I have replaced the o-rings on the carb intake boots as well.
While sync'ing the carbs, I noticed the slide valves on carb #1,2, and 4 were raised a decent amount while carb #3 was fully shut, providing the best synchronization. I feel this should be concerning.
I also noticed that there was a bit of discoloration around the engine where the intake boot seals with the engine block on carb #3 (resulting in an air leak?)
Next concern is that when I took of the pod filters and the intake boots they were pretty wet with fuel.
Now for the problem. When I synced up the carbs my idle kicked up pretty high. So much so that I had to completely take let out my idle screw out almost all the way to get it to sit at 1500 rpm. Wouldn't be so bad if it didn't fluctuate so much. Causing me to stall on idle after riding for a few good KMs.
As for my Pilot and Idle air screw settings. I was mucking around trying to find a good spot were they didnt cause the bike to idle like crazy and currently my Pilot is set to 3.5 turns out and my Idle Airs are set at .25 turns out, which seems like a lot of fuel to me.
So in Summary
- I think I have an air leak due to the off set of slide in carb #3 compared to the rest of the carbs, as well as discoloration on engine by intake boot.
- If there is a leak, is that what is causing my high idle and weird carb settings? Or am I just taking a wrong approach?
Thanks a ton for your help folks!
I'm back again. I guess I don't log in enough to not get deactivated. Any hoo.
I have a 1978 Suzuki GS750 that I did a full engine rebuild and some custom work to (I'll post a pic soon), and I am having some difficulties with my idling.
Changes to the air / fuel system are individual pod filters (EMGO), as well as EMGO shorty reverse cones on the 4-2 exhaust system.
The stock VM carbs have been cleaned and rebuilt with cycle o-rings...o-rings, and are currently running stock sizes of jets and what nots, however the needles have been raised one notch.
I have replaced the o-rings on the carb intake boots as well.
While sync'ing the carbs, I noticed the slide valves on carb #1,2, and 4 were raised a decent amount while carb #3 was fully shut, providing the best synchronization. I feel this should be concerning.
I also noticed that there was a bit of discoloration around the engine where the intake boot seals with the engine block on carb #3 (resulting in an air leak?)
Next concern is that when I took of the pod filters and the intake boots they were pretty wet with fuel.
Now for the problem. When I synced up the carbs my idle kicked up pretty high. So much so that I had to completely take let out my idle screw out almost all the way to get it to sit at 1500 rpm. Wouldn't be so bad if it didn't fluctuate so much. Causing me to stall on idle after riding for a few good KMs.
As for my Pilot and Idle air screw settings. I was mucking around trying to find a good spot were they didnt cause the bike to idle like crazy and currently my Pilot is set to 3.5 turns out and my Idle Airs are set at .25 turns out, which seems like a lot of fuel to me.
So in Summary
- I think I have an air leak due to the off set of slide in carb #3 compared to the rest of the carbs, as well as discoloration on engine by intake boot.
- If there is a leak, is that what is causing my high idle and weird carb settings? Or am I just taking a wrong approach?
Thanks a ton for your help folks!