Jerky throttle?

[growler]

This makes sense. Next time the tank is off I'll sync again. The pilot jets are stock.

I would certainly take another look at synchronization, idle mixture screw, and also make sure no one has altered anything to do with the pilot jet or needle position. If for instance it is too lean at idle, and not too lean at a tiny throttle opening, it will surge as it goes from one to the other. Like wise if it's lean at the barely opened throttle, but not lean as the slide comes up a tad, it will do the same thing. Like Steve says, it's very sensitive at low throttle openings. Even different atmospheric conditions from what you had when you set these perimeters can have an effect.


Again, it didn't do this when it was new, there is no reason for it now. Starting out in second gear or short shifting or whatever is a band aid fix at best.

[tkent02]

We are not suggesting taking off in second gear. Instead, we are suggesting idling through the grocery store parking lot in second, instead of first. Or approaching a traffic light in third, instead of second. Times when you want to keep moving, but a lower gear requires so little throttle that the jerkiness is really enhanced.

.

Steve, you of all people know if all is adjusted perfectly it shouldn't do any of this.

[Steve]

Trust me, my bikes are darn close to running perfectly, but I will NOT idle through a parking lot in first gear.

With EITHER bike.

.

[growler]

If I can get a hold of a GoPro this weekend I'll take a video while riding. I broke mine.

[tirebiter]

I'm experiencing a very similar occurance with my '80 850 shaftie, Growler. Although I am still playing with jetting to get the best fuel economy I can, I am considering a different throttle lever down on the carb linkage in the not-too-distant future.

If I can make the "off throttle/on throttle" action go slower at first, requiring more twist on the throttle grip, then I think I can get my bike to respond more smoothly and be easier to control at extremely low RPM. Also would like to eliminate the throttle cable free-play entirely if I can.

It's all about that off throttle/slowing then transition to on throttle - not even trying to accelerate, just holding a steady speed through an intersection. Getting the carb synchronization spot-on does help, in my case but does not 100% take care of making smooth on/off/on transitions. The excess drivetain slop in my "Little Suzy" doesn't help either (maybe a broken reaction spring) but that's a fix for another time.

I feel very strongly that if I can get the throttle action slowed WAY down just at the almost closed position, then I SHOULD have an easier time riding smoothly since the engine would not be as "sensitive" at slight throttle applications.

[Wingsconsin]

The 850 is a monster and one can idle in 3rd gear at nearly 5 mph.
Use a higher gear and be happy...2nd gear is great for parking lots as well as 3rd gear.
One can always downshift and move out quickly if the need arises...
I find I can putt-putt around corners at very low speed in the subdivision in 4th and just give it a little throttle to gain speed again.
If all the things you did to the bike are done correctly (and I suspect they are) it should be more riding style than bike causes...
Just my 2¢ .

[growler]

Thanks for the comments.

The 850 is a monster and one can idle in 3rd gear at nearly 5 mph.
Use a higher gear and be happy...2nd gear is great for parking lots as well as 3rd gear.
One can always downshift and move out quickly if the need arises...
I find I can putt-putt around corners at very low speed in the subdivision in 4th and just give it a little throttle to gain speed again.
If all the things you did to the bike are done correctly (and I suspect they are) it should be more riding style than bike causes...
Just my 2¢ .

[growler]

Man, maybe I need a seasoned member to stop by and take my bike out for a spin. I don't feel confident riding this bike like this, it's just not smooth.

Took it out for an hour last night....felt jerky while I was cruising around 45mph. I would give it throttle then release, then give it throttle again. That moment when power is transferred to the back wheel just feels choppy. Maybe someone with more experience could easily diagnose it. *shrug*

[growler]

Possible issues:

-throttle cable lube needed
-throttle cable too much play
-idle mixture screws - too lean? resync

that's what I'll take a look at tonight.

[Steve]

Get in touch with Wingsconsin. He is not that far away and would be willing to help.

.

[growler]

Just out of curiosity, could my worn rear wheel drive spline cause any jerkiness?

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?233314-Rear-Wheel-Removal-Final-Drive-Unit-Hub-Spine-Greasing

I guess I'll find out once it's replaced.

[Steve]

You still need to develop a smooth wrist action at very low throttle settings (where you are most of the time), but those worn splines certainly did not help the situation any.

.

[Wingsconsin]

Just out of curiosity, could my worn rear wheel drive spline cause any jerkiness?

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?233314-Rear-Wheel-Removal-Final-Drive-Unit-Hub-Spine-Greasing

I guess I'll find out once it's replaced.

I think the answer is yes - I had this problem on my old BLUE Goldwing and it jerked so bad sometimes it kicked off the cruise control (yea- I know)
But once it was replaced it was much smoother to ride

[Dogma]

You still need to develop a smooth wrist action at very low throttle settings (where you are most of the time), but those worn splines certainly did not help the situation any.

.

I mask driveline lash by slipping the clutch or pulling it in entirely. Accelerate to the desired speed, then coast until you need another load of momentum. Another thing you can do comes from the advanced cornering technique called trail braking. Instead of rolling completely off the throttle, you can roll it nearly shut and control the speed with the rear brake. (In cornering, trail braking is used to avoid driveline lash upsetting the suspension, thus preserving the last iota of traction. Also useful in low-speed maneuvering.) I prefer and recommend just slipping the clutch. There isn't enough actual slipping to cause excessive wear, unless you're making up for being in the wrong gear. Just enough slip to take the bump out. But the throttle control Steve describes will come with practice and do most of the work.

Getting back to a question from the first post: Too much weight on your wrists? Yes, because any weight on your wrists decreases the ability to steer and interferes with the bike's ability to balance. It's why I fell over after a certain emergency stop. I was in the habit of leaning on the bars under braking, and the bike was just a little too far off balance when I got it stopped. Grip the tank with the knees when breaking, and always hold yourself up with the lower back and your feet on the pegs. Keep the spine neutral from tail to skull, because a curved posture is nothing but trouble.

[growler]

Good stuff, Dogma. I'm changing my seating position a bit to give myself less weight on my hands. I'm used to the opposite, having really light hands on the bars. (my dad's Vulcan 1500 is what I learned on)

I'm a tank gripper already!