Where to start? 82 gs650L

[Guest]

So like the title I have a 82 Gs650L, trying to make it more of a cafe/brat. With that said, I want the bike running top before I go and make any headway in what I want the bike to be.

So history of bike (from PO)... This guy had probably 50 bikes and was considered a "dealer" was trying to put a side car on it but said it wasn't geared right so he sold it to me. He also said the carb was cleaned and top end was done end of last year (2014). I'm new to this so I'm not really sure what "top end done" really entails. Now after reading loooots on this site. One of the newbie rules in never trust an PO. Well I'd like to hope this guy was for real. It runs and drives, I test drove it and it all seemed to checked out to my knowledge (which isn't too much) also blinkers aren't original, and they don't blink, they just stay lit. And speedo doesn't work. Which means miles aren't actual.


Got the bike trailered home. I tinkered with the speedo to try to fix that, kinda had it fixed then not.. The PO said the oil was good but the first thing I do with anything used is change the oil no matter what. Read on here to use Diesel engine oil but I brought that up to the most trustworthy shop in town and they insisted on 10w40.. so I changed the oil yesterday and it had a pretty good hint of gasoline smell in it which I have read is not ideal. So this brings me to my first real question/dilemma.. Either the carb was cleaned before the last oil change (in thought that they had float problems which leaked to the oil) or the carb was never properly fixed if at all. So with my oil change I am going to wait to see if I smell gas again. Also noticed one pipe on the bike creates a good amount of white smoke while the other does not. From what I read that could be the over flowed gas from my carbs. Or a mouse. Going to go with gas.


I figured no matter what the answer is to my gas in oil problem I'm going to be getting into those carbs. So I ordered all new o-rings and gaskets for the carbs. Next question; I absolutely want pods and no one can tell me otherwise. I have read a lot about pods vs stock and I'm okay with some eustress (healthy stress) dealing with jets and whatnot. But! Should I worry about pods later and just focus on my gas and oil problem first or while I'm in there just get it all done and start tinkering? My guess is worry about pods last and just get this thing running.

Sorry for for this book of a post but if anyone can confirm my thoughts or tell me their 2 cents I'll take it. Anyways I love this site and I haven't stopped reading threads since last week. I haven't learned this much since I don't know when.

[tom203]

So pods or nothing! But this critter runs wonderfully thru entire range with stock airbox setup. Plan on getting decent pods and a dynojet kit or figure your midrange will be full of negative eustress. Best to get it running right before you make the leap to podland.
Probably a bad petcock is to blame for gas in oil stuff- just get new one and rule it out as problem forever! Have you seen the proper way to clean these carbs?
what's the mileage on this thing?

[Grassigrass]

It reads 22k but no way to tell for sure. I've just encountered a new problem today. Seems like I really got what I paid for.. Like I said one exhaust spits out a lot of white smoke. I've litterelly searched every thread that has "1982 Gs650L" in it and one thread from Central Vt said this guy went to purchase this exact same bike but didn't becuase 1 of the 4 cylinders wasn't running and it knocked. Well I can't tell by listening and not to sound dumb but "knock" is a very broad word to me since I've never really heard one. But the cylinder problem I read you could tell by the temps of the exhaust pipes. If one is cold then you know it's not firing. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Well I ran the bike for 3 minutes not to get it super hot. Then felt the pipes very carefully and the 2 on the left side were ice cold while the right side were too hot to touch. Only the left side pipes (2 to 1) was the one spitting out white smoke... Could this be a spark plug? I'm trying to think optimistic with the only knowledge i know.

[Grassigrass]

It seems to run good, I mean I've taken it no more than 3 miles in all but ran through all the gears perfectly fine. Haven't really opened it up since I don't have a working speedo. But it hasn't blown up yet so that's a good sign

[tom203]

I remember the post about the vermont bike with the knocking- this is not good news, the shaft 650's are plain bearing engines. The knocking is unlikely related to the cold cylinders though, probably fuel or ignition problems.
Don't put any faith in previous owner's claims.

check out member William Groebe adventures in the engine clutch trans forum on here

[hannibal]

What causes the white smoke? From working on cars I learned black smoke is fuel, blue is oil, and white is coolant. Obviously no coolant on this bike so what are some of the possible causes?

[Grassigrass]

I'm pretty sure the white smoke is gas that's not getting burned off. Correct me if I'm wrong. Not really sure how it works but that's what I've been told

[Grassigrass]

So here are my spark plugs. the left 2 are the cylinders that are not firing. they're drenched in gas and super black. could this be my problem or is this a result of a bigger problem?

kevinsbike1.jpg

[tom203]

As I said ,best to ensure petcock is working correctly. Changing the oil won't help if more gas is finding its way to the new oil courtesy of failed petcock - it will smoke and your engine lubrication will be poor. With petcock in "on" or "res" spot no gas should flow unless a vacuum is applied to the smaller fitting on petcock which connects to a fitting on #2 carb (second from left as you sit). Plus no fuel at all should run or dribble down this vacuum line (put some vinyl tubing on petcock's vac fitting and suck on it-any gas here means failed petcock). In "pr" spot fuel should flow at all times, so don't leave it in this position long or the carbs will overflow .
you need to get this thing running right before the jump to pods .

[Grassigrass]

the petcock is stuck on the "on" position...add that to the list of items to replace

[JTGS850GL]

OK, time to get down to basics. Obviously you have two cylinders not firing. Have YOU done any of the required maintenance? Valves need to be adjusted, carbs need a complete strip and dip with new O-rings from head back. Petcock needs to be verified for proper operation.

Have you verified spark on the dead cylinders? Since the dead cylinders are 1 & 2 and have no common component, I'd say you need to verify that the correct spark plug cable is going to the correct plug. Cylinders 1&4 and 2&3 share a common coil. Make sure that cylinder 1's plug wire is going to the same coil as 4. If not, then reverse plug wires 1&2 so that 1&4 go to one coil and 2&3 go to the other. Since 3 &4 are firing, assume that those are going to the correct coil.

[JTGS850GL]

the petcock is stuck on the "on" position...add that to the list of items to replace

Older petcocks can be a little sticky. Use some pliers and see if you can turn it. If you still can't then it's definitely time for a new petcock. Very common for these old bike to need on. I almost always assume that it's on the list of things to do. Right up there with replacing the R/R and/or stator.

[Grassigrass]

I just ordered new O-rings probably Wednesday. Haven't come in yet. Also new bolts for the carb after I destroy the current ones getting it off. Haven't checked the wires yet to see what goes where. Didn't really know there was a specific destination per wire. And I'll pry on the petcock to see if it'll move today. I Was just afraid of breaking something before when I tried with my hands even. Thanks for sending me in a direction though! Litterally just sitting and looking at it till o-rings arrive

[JTGS850GL]

Great time to do the valves!

[60ratrod]

I would also verify spark on all 4 leads as well. From what i have seen, these bikes (the 650s) have been dropping ignitors left and right in recent years. The ignitor test is fairly easy though. This would be my last thing to check before putting the tank back on after cleaning the carbs, replacing the manifold o-rings, and checking the valve clearances. Does this L still have the factory coils and plug caps?